Could not agree with you more.It is scary what some people will spend money on thinking they are saving a buck or two.Saftey should be a priority.

 

It is nice to receive such a quick reply by someone who feels the same on this subject! These UTV's are EVERYWHERE these days and I would estimate that 75% of them have been modified to accept 4 seats. The mild steel roll cage is being mass produced by lots of companies, and judging by the pictures/material descriptions, NO WAY would I put my family in one of those things!
Check out the picture of the cage below. Theres zero triangulation built into it-that thing will fold like origami! For the sake of the builder I will keep their name private, but the price on this particular cage is set at more than $1100.00, AND ITS MILD STEEL!!!! Mild steel is what, $3-5 per foot! I would be willing to bet there is less than $250 in materials on that cage and it probably took HOURS to build having said the jig is already made. Where does all that extra money go??? WAY too much for a mild steel cage!

 

Maybe most people dont know the difference between cage material. I was going to buy a mild steel cage myself until I talk to Jim Quinn about cages. I now cant be any happier with my XMF chromoly cage That I bought from him. I also see alot of cages that bolt to the bed in the rear rather than attaching to the frame in some way- were is the strength in that? I thank Jim Quinn and XMF every time my fiance and I drive it know that if we every wreck it that we wont be getting hurt because the cage failed to provide safty for us and do what it was suppost to do. She some times also complains about the high doors and crawling into it but after having them I wouldnt ever have it any other way. I also always keep the window nets on her side everytime she rides with me and I just bought her a billet Gear One oh **** handle because she still needs to learn not to put her hands up in the air when things get hairy. Its her stupid natural reaction to put her hands by her face when she gets scared. I am afraid that if we were to roll that her arms would fly out the window.

Anyways safty is my first priority when having fun and I will NEVER buy one of thes cheap cages.

 

Most people out there consider money second and the input from the shop or person selling the "cage" first... It is unfortunate that their are shops out there selling "cages" that fall far short in the safety category. Often it isn't about material but the design of the cage.

If you do a search here or at GD's you will see that this same statement has been brought up many times...

 

Now you guys have me wondering if I am safe? Is the LSR 4 seat cage safe for kids?

"The 4 seater roll cage is built as shown but can be fully customized for your needs. It is made from 1-3/4" DOM alloy and professionally TIG welded. The cage features 2 flag mounts and an integrated grab bars for all passengers. It also features pre-cut holes inside the tubing for ease of wiring accessories. Options include, gas can mount, cooler mount, spare tire mounts, and race sides. Call for details. Aftermarket restraints are required"

 

Now you guys have me wondering if I am safe? Is the LSR 4 seat cage safe for kids?

Often it isn't about material but the design of the cage.

 

"Are you saying that this PVC pipe roll bar on the Jeep wont work?":fing02:

 

So what is the Yamaha cage made of??

I do not think it is Chromoly.

I have seen many wreck vids on here of stock cages surviving very well.

I agree that design is more important than the material being mild steel or Chromoly.

I am hesitant about the rear mounting area. I would prefer the frame obviously, but has anyone try to bend the steel bed on purpose to see how much it will take.?

I also agree that the prices are crazy even though material is going up.

Rog

 

I have rolled a total of 7 times in the sand with the stock cage and it held up fine. Not sure how it would have held up if we were on hard pack though!

Passengers in my Rhino are instructed with "what to do" scenarios every time they ride!

 

I have rolled a total of 7 times in the sand with the stock cage and it held up fine.

Remind me never to ride with you!! lol

 

2 cents.

I agree that a .120 wall mild steel is better. The common Joe smoe could be told anything and buy it under trust.

4130 is Obviously a better choice but keep in mind customers are always balling on a budget.



When it come to price keep in mind business's have employees and lots of overhead and consumables that people take for granted. Also consider there are manufactures and retailers, both parties need to make their margins.

Most business owners would understand.

If I was a father I sure as hell wouldnt have kids strapped in a rhino bed and drive like a a-hole. Accidents happen-so be prepared and have harness's + helmets as well. A good triangulated .120 wall cage would protect you fine.

I as well have seen numorous videos of stock cages holding up quite well .

Brain Buckets-It's what keeps you alive.
Common Sense-unfortunately you can't buy it.

Later-

 

if you want it done right-
long story short...get your cages from magnum offroad
:headbang:
yaaa boooi

 

4130 IS THE BEST CHOICE ...BUT I BELIVE SCORE AND THE UTVRA SAYS THAT YOU CAN USE .120 WALL MILD STEEL AS LONG AS YOUR RIG IS UNDER THE MAX WEIGHT LIMIT PROVIDED IT IS PROPERLY BUILT WITH GUSSETS AND PROPER TRIANGULATION AND IT'S NOT LIKE .120 MILD STEEL IS THAT INFERIOR ANYWAYS IT'S STILL GOOD BUT IT'S NOT THE SHIZNIT AND .090 IS OUT OF THE QUESTION PERIOD!!!!!!:duh:......WHICH MAKES ME SECOND GUESS THE GALVANIZED FENCE POSTS I BOUGHT FROM HOME DEPOT FOR MY RACE CAGE BUILD!!!:moon:

 

Nothing to say

 

I rolled my jeep 4 times over. My cage was built out of mild .120 it worked great and weighs about 3 times what my rhino does. I built the cage in my rhino out of. 095 mild

 

I think a lot of you have misunderstood me when I began this thread. I simply started by pointing out the price, material, and design of a VERY popular 4 seat cage that is on the market. It has many brothers and sisters who are being mass produced as well. I don't understand why you are bringing your .095 DOM super duper deluxe fancy kid hauling, cooler rack having, tied into the factory Yamaha frame in 10 different places, subframed rhino cage to the table. If you want to play that game, im sure the argument would never end! My point from the start was why are people paying $1000-$1500 for a mild steel cage, without gussets, or proper mounts. If you look at the picture I included at the beginning of this thread the cage shown has 2 big tabs on the back of it that bolt to the freakin' bed on the rhino!?!?! Now, explain to me, during the event of a roll over, how is the stock yamaha rhino BED SIDE suppose to hold up to an impact brought down upon it from the roll cage thats bolted to it???? You said it yourself, design plays a huge roll in gaining as much strength as possible, regardless of material. Is it good practice to design a roll cage that bolts to a tin-can sheet metal bed side?

-BenTerrible

 

More of nothing to say, other than tin cans hold beer!:beer8:

 

Easy big dog, my response was to the post just prior stating that .090 is out of the question. And if you read the post you will see that we are stating the same thing in regards to the cage being tied to the bed. So if you will get off your high horse for a second and look you will see that I do not have a cooler rack and I never referred to my cage as super duper deluxe fancy kid hauling. And I am doing the same as you and just voicing my opinion and not trying to talk down to another person or starting problems by taking someones words and changing them in an attempt to belittle their work and make an uncalled for remark.

Easy turbo...easy. It's the internet. Im not trying to belittle you, or change your words around. Don't want enemies, just thought that we would compare apples to apples, not apples to oranges.

-BenTerrible

 

:bigpop:

 

I did misunderstand. I saw you asking about material and thickness and I thought that my post about material and thickness pertained to the question. I will pay more attention in the future. My apologies. And you are right, it is the internet and I can be anyone I want to be.

 

Ok, so getting back the the subject. How do I know what my cage is built from. I bought mine used with a cage allready on. What is the stock # again?
Where is the rear supposed to bolt on to?
Mine does not bolt anywhere!

Crap, now I have to fix something else!!!!

 

don't worry! send some pictures of what ya got. we can help you out!

-BenTerrible

 

I am really not to worried. I don't ride crazy. I was just looking for an excuse to buy something new. But this thread does make me wonder??

 

hey ben, what about 6160 t6 if the design is good? 2'' tube and has alot more x bracing than most.

 

T6 is pretty tough stuff. If you want numbers, 6061 T6 is a high tempered grade of normal 6061, or 6061 fresh out of the will. T6 has a yield strength of about 40,000 PSI which is pretty strong, especially for aluminum. Now, compared to Chromium Mollybendium 4130 its about half the strength depending on which temper 4130 you have. Normalized 4130 will hold a yield strength of 70,000 PSI WITHOUT post-weld treatment. By post-weld treatment I am reffering to stress relieving/heat treating. When you weld all the joints on your chassis you are inducing stress in those areas and those areas only. By heat treating the entire part/chassis you relieve it of all unnecessary stress and it will be much stronger-a yield of about 120,000 PSI. All of this compared to Mild Steel with a yield strength of about 30,000 PSI, well you do the math-for an extra few bux per foot you can have more than double the strength.
To answer your question, I think you will be alright-better off than most others. Afterall-6061 T6 is aircraft grade material! Hope this gives a better insight. I have been studying Metallurgy now and I am the kind of guy who likes to compare numbers.

-BenTerrible

 

Man I wish I would have paid more attention in my Metallurgy class in college. I didn’t retain any info. I needed the classes to work at Palo Verde for APS as a machinist. It would of came in handy now.

 

DAM ben, you the man. i will try and post some pics of the cage today so maybe can can bless it. :arms:

 

Cool dude! Shoot me an email:
BenjaminCHeath@GMail.com

 

what dont you guys us 6160 in your truck?

 

What do you think of my cage???
4130 material

 

trust me that cage is fine! haha, it won't hurt it to roll!

 

I am also in the same boat with the price of these dam things. I called to check on pricing for chromoly mild steel and DOM. if I use 100 feet of tube, should be more than enough pipe for all X bracing and main runs, I came up with about $367 (1 ¾’’ .095). This cage will have waaaaay more support than what is being sold on the street today. I know people need to make money but DAM. Some shops are making them out of chromoly and charging $1500 and that price I can justify due to the cost and the amount of tube they use, about $8 bucks a foot. Fireball makes a dam nice cage for about $1800 and he is some what local but that is out of my price range. I have been trying to due as much home on this as possible because when somebody is in the back of my rhino, THEY ARE MY RESPONSIBLE. I have seen way too many you tube videos that have ended all wrong and don’t want to be “that guy”. JMO