Ok this is going to be kind of long because I am at my wits end and I want to list everything we have tried.
2008 Rhino 700, stock except sheave that has been in it for years.
Started getting a dead miss then backfiring and quitting but would start back. Did this for a few days then would not start back at all. While looking for the problem we found several wires in the relay area that were corroded badly so we changed the entire harness. We get power everywhere except nothing to the starter or ignition when we turn the key to crank the engine. Solenoid doesnt click or anything. We can cross over the solenoid and it will crank but there’s no ignition spark. We have even replaced the harness a second time with the same issues. As of today here are the codes that show:
Code 12 Crank Sensor (Checked with meter and its right on what manual calls for)
Code 14 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (this is new today, not sure it would stop it from cranking)
Code 33 Ignition Coil (Have replaced the coil but can’t clear codes to see if it goes away)
I have tried the code clearing process listed in the manual but they do not clear at all. They don’t go away and then reappear, nothing changes. The differential would engage during the process for the first dozen times I tried but has stopped (I figure it may be frozen in place due to all the engaging/disengaging without moving)
Thing we have tried/changed:
2 new harnesses
All relays and fuses replaced
Battery is grounded to the frame and the engine to the frame with heavy wire
New battery
New key switch
New coil
New starter solenoid (or relay, whichever its actually called. No changes from the old one)
New Idle Sensor (when it was still just backfiring and quitting)
Neutral light works on dash
Brake lights work (crossed over brake switch to check)
Rollover switch up front has been flipped to show rollover code on dash, when replace correctly the rollover code goes away
Headlights work fine
Fuel pumps was replaced last year and powers up fine
We did swap computers with a friend early in the process when it was still cranking but not running, and it made no difference (not saying that couldn’t be the problem)
There may be more that I've left out, we've been fighting this for months. We are not great with electrical troubleshooting. If you talk us through with simple words we can follow along lol.
We have been fighting with this for months and are really out of ideas with our limited knowledge of how these things work. It could be something simple or the CPU is dead, we have honestly run out of things we can think to do and are just looking for any good ideas of what we can try. ANY help is greatly appreciated!
2008 Rhino 700, stock except sheave that has been in it for years.
Started getting a dead miss then backfiring and quitting but would start back. Did this for a few days then would not start back at all. While looking for the problem we found several wires in the relay area that were corroded badly so we changed the entire harness. We get power everywhere except nothing to the starter or ignition when we turn the key to crank the engine. Solenoid doesnt click or anything. We can cross over the solenoid and it will crank but there’s no ignition spark. We have even replaced the harness a second time with the same issues. As of today here are the codes that show:
Code 12 Crank Sensor (Checked with meter and its right on what manual calls for)
Code 14 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (this is new today, not sure it would stop it from cranking)
Code 33 Ignition Coil (Have replaced the coil but can’t clear codes to see if it goes away)
I have tried the code clearing process listed in the manual but they do not clear at all. They don’t go away and then reappear, nothing changes. The differential would engage during the process for the first dozen times I tried but has stopped (I figure it may be frozen in place due to all the engaging/disengaging without moving)
Thing we have tried/changed:
2 new harnesses
All relays and fuses replaced
Battery is grounded to the frame and the engine to the frame with heavy wire
New battery
New key switch
New coil
New starter solenoid (or relay, whichever its actually called. No changes from the old one)
New Idle Sensor (when it was still just backfiring and quitting)
Neutral light works on dash
Brake lights work (crossed over brake switch to check)
Rollover switch up front has been flipped to show rollover code on dash, when replace correctly the rollover code goes away
Headlights work fine
Fuel pumps was replaced last year and powers up fine
We did swap computers with a friend early in the process when it was still cranking but not running, and it made no difference (not saying that couldn’t be the problem)
There may be more that I've left out, we've been fighting this for months. We are not great with electrical troubleshooting. If you talk us through with simple words we can follow along lol.
We have been fighting with this for months and are really out of ideas with our limited knowledge of how these things work. It could be something simple or the CPU is dead, we have honestly run out of things we can think to do and are just looking for any good ideas of what we can try. ANY help is greatly appreciated!