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2008 Rhino 700 - No Power to Starter or Ignition

2.2K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  anton37  
#1 ·
Ok this is going to be kind of long because I am at my wits end and I want to list everything we have tried.


2008 Rhino 700, stock except sheave that has been in it for years.

Started getting a dead miss then backfiring and quitting but would start back. Did this for a few days then would not start back at all. While looking for the problem we found several wires in the relay area that were corroded badly so we changed the entire harness. We get power everywhere except nothing to the starter or ignition when we turn the key to crank the engine. Solenoid doesnt click or anything. We can cross over the solenoid and it will crank but there’s no ignition spark. We have even replaced the harness a second time with the same issues. As of today here are the codes that show:


Code 12 Crank Sensor (Checked with meter and its right on what manual calls for)

Code 14 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (this is new today, not sure it would stop it from cranking)

Code 33 Ignition Coil (Have replaced the coil but can’t clear codes to see if it goes away)

I have tried the code clearing process listed in the manual but they do not clear at all. They don’t go away and then reappear, nothing changes. The differential would engage during the process for the first dozen times I tried but has stopped (I figure it may be frozen in place due to all the engaging/disengaging without moving)

Thing we have tried/changed:

2 new harnesses

All relays and fuses replaced

Battery is grounded to the frame and the engine to the frame with heavy wire

New battery

New key switch

New coil

New starter solenoid (or relay, whichever its actually called. No changes from the old one)

New Idle Sensor (when it was still just backfiring and quitting)

Neutral light works on dash

Brake lights work (crossed over brake switch to check)

Rollover switch up front has been flipped to show rollover code on dash, when replace correctly the rollover code goes away

Headlights work fine

Fuel pumps was replaced last year and powers up fine

We did swap computers with a friend early in the process when it was still cranking but not running, and it made no difference (not saying that couldn’t be the problem)


There may be more that I've left out, we've been fighting this for months. We are not great with electrical troubleshooting. If you talk us through with simple words we can follow along lol.

We have been fighting with this for months and are really out of ideas with our limited knowledge of how these things work. It could be something simple or the CPU is dead, we have honestly run out of things we can think to do and are just looking for any good ideas of what we can try. ANY help is greatly appreciated!
 
#2 ·
Ok this is going to be kind of long because I am at my wits end and I want to list everything we have tried.


2008 Rhino 700, stock except sheave that has been in it for years.

Started getting a dead miss then backfiring and quitting but would start back. Did this for a few days then would not start back at all. While looking for the problem we found several wires in the relay area that were corroded badly so we changed the entire harness. We get power everywhere except nothing to the starter or ignition when we turn the key to crank the engine. Solenoid doesnt click or anything. We can cross over the solenoid and it will crank but there’s no ignition spark. We have even replaced the harness a second time with the same issues. As of today here are the codes that show:


Code 12 Crank Sensor (Checked with meter and its right on what manual calls for)

Code 14 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (this is new today, not sure it would stop it from cranking)

Code 33 Ignition Coil (Have replaced the coil but can’t clear codes to see if it goes away)

I have tried the code clearing process listed in the manual but they do not clear at all. They don’t go away and then reappear, nothing changes. The differential would engage during the process for the first dozen times I tried but has stopped (I figure it may be frozen in place due to all the engaging/disengaging without moving)

Thing we have tried/changed:

2 new harnesses

All relays and fuses replaced

Battery is grounded to the frame and the engine to the frame with heavy wire

New battery

New key switch

New coil

New starter solenoid (or relay, whichever its actually called. No changes from the old one)

New Idle Sensor (when it was still just backfiring and quitting)

Neutral light works on dash

Brake lights work (crossed over brake switch to check)

Rollover switch up front has been flipped to show rollover code on dash, when replace correctly the rollover code goes away

Headlights work fine

Fuel pumps was replaced last year and powers up fine

We did swap computers with a friend early in the process when it was still cranking but not running, and it made no difference (not saying that couldn’t be the problem)


There may be more that I've left out, we've been fighting this for months. We are not great with electrical troubleshooting. If you talk us through with simple words we can follow along lol.

We have been fighting with this for months and are really out of ideas with our limited knowledge of how these things work. It could be something simple or the CPU is dead, we have honestly run out of things we can think to do and are just looking for any good ideas of what we can try. ANY help is greatly appreciated!
Any update on this? I have a Bennche 700 efi doing the same thing. Was runnin rough then shut off and wouldn't start back up again. Im
Not getting and power to the plug on the starter solenoid but if I jump it it'll turn over
 
#5 ·
Final update. The cheap coil was causing the no spark issue after installing the new ECU.

So after studying what we had done, it looks like the cheap coil was the culprit that started all of the rest of the issues that were self inflicted. The cheap coil had only been on a month when the original misfiring issue cropped up. That's when we found the corroded wires in the harness and replaced it (when it was actully likely just the new cheap coil that we didnt check).

When the new harness didn't work we likely fried the ECU when we shorted out a wire trying to get fire from a dead coil that we didnt check just beacuse it was new.

Many lessons learned, but it's back up an running.