How-To Change or clean rear pads (With pics) - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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How-To Change or clean rear pads (With pics)

Hey Guys,

This is my second post and my first "How To", so bear with me.

I just bought my used Rhino (2007 450). I noticed that the parking brake didn't work. I tried adjusting it like in the manual, but something just didnt seem right. With the brake pulled, I could still push the Rhino by hand. So, I began investigating.

So, this is a "How TO", on how to clean the back brake if your parking brake isnt functioning. Which is basically the same procedure as changing the rear pads.

Tools Needed:
8MM socket with 1/4 rachet (I used a cordless drill with a 1/4 inch attachment)
14MM socket with 3/8 rachet
Needle nose pliers
5MM Allen wrench

(these were needed to clean the brake calipers and pads)
some type of all purpose oil
small flatblade screw driver
a small wire brush

1) Remove the master cylinder cap from the reservoir

2) Get under the back of the vehicle. Look up between the rear tires. There is a skid plate. This has 7 bolts in it, that must be removed.

3) Grab your trusty needle nose pliers and squeeze the plastic holders of the brake line and parking brake line from the frame area:

4) Get out from underneath the vehicle. Lift the tilt bed. Here is the Caliper!

5) Here is the 14MM top bolt that needs to be removed. Remove it with either a 14MM wrench, or a 14mm socket.

6) Go back underneath, grab your 14mm wrench or rachet. Remove bottom bolt

7)Caliper should be loose enouth to slice off of its bracket and rotor. Gently twist it so you can get your hands on the parking brake cable. Slide the parking cable out of its holder. (See Yellow Arrow)

remove it, by rotating the cable around where it will fit through the slot.

8) Grab your 5mm allen wrench and remove these bolts/pins.

9) As you can see my pins were pretty bad off.

So I used some 1000 grit sandpaper (green arrow) and GENTLY sanded these back to a nice smooth shine. (using spit as lubricant), LOL! Yeah I know that sounded bad.

I think they came out pretty good

10) Remove the pads now. Mine were pretty bad as well. However I still had a lot of pad left. So, I used my flathead screwdriver and GENTLY scraped the mud out of the grooves. I also used a soft wire brush to gently brush the rest of the pad to remove any mud as well.

Using the soft wire brush, I worked the pad surface a little to bring it back to a normal state

11) Remove the spring that gives the pads tension against the pins:
Seen here

12) Clean out this area where the spring sat

13) Here is the caliper piston. Mine was gummed up pretty good. So, I gently cleaned the outer surface with a soft wire brush

14) I then used some all in one oil and put about 10 drops on the area where the piston met the caliper and let it sink in for a few seconds.

15) I then grabbed the needle nose pliers and turned the piston clockwise to compress the piston into the caliper.

**** Make sure when you spin the piston that you put it in this orientation. It should have the tips of the cross to the sides. (Green Arrows), this is due to the pin in the pad (Yellow circle) needs to sit in the cross hair.

16) Put the spring back in if you removed it to clean

17)I grabbed the pads (or in your case new pads) and reinstalled them in the caliper. The spring will give you some tension against them, so be prepared.

18) Install the pins now and tighten them down. The spring will make you press the pads down into the caliper to insert the pins

19) It should look like this

20) grab some brake cleaner and wipe off the rotor.

21) reattach the parking brake cable to the caliper

22) put the caliper back on the rotor

23) put the bottom bolt in, but do NOT tighten it down yet.

24) Put top bolt in and tighten it down

25) Now Tighten up bottom bolt

26) Put the brake holders back in their places on the frame areas

27) Put the skid plate back on the bottom.

28) Put the brake reservoir cap back on.

Voila! now go enjoy your Rhino with a working parking brake.

Hope this helps some people that had trouble with the back pads.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 06:45 PM
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Thank you
This was a excellent post!


Roof, Windshield, Backshield, STI wheels, Tusk tires, Tr-Fire CDI and Viper max winch.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 10:34 PM
Paper Boy
Join Date: Mar 2013
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wouldn't you believe it, I just replaced my rear pads this morning and now I read this. Great detail, I had a little challenge with the upper bolt because my bed does not dump with my current roll cage. Regardless, great job.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2013, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!

I will be doing more in the future.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 07:50 AM
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Sure do wish this was posted a few months ago!
Great thread, Thanks.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 01:39 PM
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thanks for this post!! ill be doing mine tomorrow.

07 660 Sport, 14" SS 112's, 26" ITP Terracross, Venom 5000X, Progressive 425 HD, Moose Roof, Super Atv CF Fender Flares, Corbeau low backs, UTV Inc. Rear Cage, Beard Rear Seat, Dynatek CDI, UTV Inc. Bawler Hawler Kit (14 g, purple spring), UTV Inc. Rear Diff. Gusset.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 05:33 AM
Join Date: Sep 2011
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2 Things to add:
1. You don't have to take the park brake cable off to do this but it helps. I left mine on cause I was lazy.
2. Remove and lubricate the slides attached to the bracket so it will move smoothly and prolong pad life
Nice write-up!

2006 660 SE: NGK iridium plug, Dynatek CDI, Uni filter, Snorkel removed, Rejetted carb, JBS sheave/16gr. od weights/sliders, EPI orange spring, Trail Armor windshield, Aluminum Products a-arm guards, Factory UTV chassis skids, Dbestduner fan shroud, JBS radiator mud guards, Extreme Products grill guard, 25" Bighorns, Ryde On dust guard, Super ATV taillight guards, Bed coated in sound deadener, Rear swaybar removed
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013, 08:05 PM
Sunday Driver
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Awesome, nice job! I'm doing my rear pads in the morning so this was a huge help!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-03-2013, 06:02 PM
Oil Spot
Join Date: Jun 2013
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Thanks for the thread, have to replace mine before next trip out, got a good deal on a set at:
Yamaha Rhino Brake Parts
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 08:07 PM
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On the 660's the calipers have to be screwed in, nice job on the 450.

FLOYD, SANDI & Sadie is the co-pilot. 05 660, 3000# VENOM WINCH, LED headlight Mod, 12' led light bar RZR seats, Resi shocks, SunF 26 X 9r X 12, CUSTOM PAINT(the rescue chopper can find us know)

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