How Do You Replace Rear Brake Pads! - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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CA How Do You Replace Rear Brake Pads!

I must be doing something wrong! I don't have very much access to the rear brake caliper but I was only able to loosen one nut that seems to be holding the pads in place. The pad wobbles a little but won't slide out.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

The tip of the screwdriver in the picture is where I removed the nut.

Last edited by VinnyRhino; 06-12-2008 at 01:08 PM.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 01:19 PM
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There are two allen heads in the caliper that hold the pads in and they have long pins on them.

I can't see your pic at work so I am assuming you have the whole caliper off, Yes??

When you go to put new pads in you turn the piston in, not squeeze it like a car.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07fj View Post
There are two allen heads in the caliper that hold the pads in and they have long pins on them.

I can't see your pic at work so I am assuming you have the whole caliper off, Yes??

When you go to put new pads in you turn the piston in, not squeeze it like a car.

Rog
I don't have the whole caliper off yet but I'll look for the two allen heads that hold the pads in.

Is this usually an easy job? It's my first time replacing the pads.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 01:46 PM
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you will have to take it off, there is another bolt (total of Two) to hold the caliper on.

The rear is not overly easy, more of a pain the first time.

once you pull the pins the pads come out. when replaciing the pins you will need to push on the pad some as the bottom of where they sit has a spring plate for tension.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 01:47 PM
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Take the bottom plastic skid pan off under the caliper and drop it out the bottom to work on. Just remove 2 bolts holding it to the Diff housing and let it drop. Then remove the 2 allen head screws in the end of the caliper to drop the pads out. Remember to save the shims off the old pads to put back on. To reinstall. Loosen the master cylinder cap and use a 3/4 inch wood chistle if you have it to push the caliper piston back flush with the caliper. It will require some force, just put the chistle in the groove of the piston and slightly turn while pushing. Put new pads on and put back together. Dont forget to retighten your master cylinder cap when your done.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks guys. I was able to remove the upper 14mm bolt that holds the caliper on very easily but I had no idea how to remove the lower bolt.

I'll try removing the skidplate and going approaching it from underneath.

Thanks again!
Much appreciated
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2008, 08:00 PM
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Changed mine for the first time today. Did all the work from beneath. First I remove the brake cable spring, brake cable, and loosened bleed screw. After that I folowed the above instructions on removal.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 03:24 PM
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how many miles have people gotten out of a set of pads on the rear? i understand under different conditions itll be different,?? im getting a grinding noise, i HOPE it needs brakes! i got the pads just havent put em on yet ,, im @ 750 miles on original, with most of that bein in mud & dirt
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 05:35 PM
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I got 2,500 miles before my rear brake went metal on metal. I wound up riding twice for over a mile with teh e-brake partially on and that finished off the rear brake.

I replace all 3 sets with sintered metal ceramic pads from ebay.


You do have to remove the e-brake spring to change the rears. Dropping the skid plate is also a must.

Make sure you screw the rear piston all the way in clockwise as far as it will go. I used a small nail puller claw.

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't have to remove the e-brake spring to replace the rear pads. Maybe it makes things easier doing so?

I have 700 miles on my Rhino and the pads had very little life left but sounded horrible. I took the Rhino out this weekend and it still made the grinding sound but it was not nearly as annoying as it was before.
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyRhino View Post
I didn't have to remove the e-brake spring to replace the rear pads. Maybe it makes things easier doing so?

I have 700 miles on my Rhino and the pads had very little life left but sounded horrible. I took the Rhino out this weekend and it still made the grinding sound but it was not nearly as annoying as it was before.
I did not have to remove spring either or loosen bleeder, jusr rotate the piston in with a fat screwdirver.

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 02:49 AM
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640 miles, and to the metal on the outside rear pad. The WV hills are hard on them.

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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 03:15 PM
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I got 36 miles on my original set.Partly mud, partly stupid(ebrake)!!!!!LOL
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2008, 02:16 PM
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i hear ya all ! put mine on today pretty easy job! i was a lil concerned after readin some of the posts on here!? like the other guys said, just remove the bottom skid, the 2 14mm bolts, drop it, replace em, and put it back together. i might put fronts on just for the heck of it!?
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 05:46 AM
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I got about 600 miles and one of the pad came off the metal. Changed it yesterday myself, took about 45 min. not hard but next time it'll be easier with experience.
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