Yamaha Rhino 660 "Poorboy Turbo Project"
I have spoke to too many people whom have good and reliable sucess with boost on carb 660 and the fact that the TS kits are availible cheap on the used market makes this cost effective for me to try. I spent an hour on the phone with the owner of TS and was very helpful to my project. I explained I'm taking his TS kit I bought on the used market and changing the draw design to a blow similar to MCX and he gave me some suggestions and process imporvements their shop is currently do now with the TS kit -mostly hardware upgrades i'll outline later and the fuel regulator upgrade which kit I bought has all that too He also mentioned 100% every1 who lost motor on his kit ran the set up lean. I think we already knew that from old postes here and he confirmed.
If I did I would but I don't have the 4.7K for the MCX 660 kit but thier RZR kits are amazing! I've seen the field testing first hand for a year now. There was like I'm guessing maybe dozen Turbo RZRs were at Dunefest 09' and vs. like 1 I saw last year. They are using using a world class snowmobile turbo, and "blow thru design" up to 14 PSI boost!
For the 660 kit they use a plenuim which helps the single cyl pulse issue and stores boost when needed under certain conditions from how I undertand. They use the stock Rhino CV carb and use a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR). TS kit has this same upgrade RRFPR with my kit but in a blow application you have to maintain the delta p thruout the entire boost and the TS kit is a draw and different animal all together related to carb and fuel pressure delivery demand so thier RRFPR is going to fall short of what is required by a blow design. They also use a air/air hx and I've read makes the air cold on outlet! I've been in contact with MCX and they have been also helpful to my project. Trey is gonna contact me when he gets back to the states. I'll fly their MCX air/air hx logo if he'll sell me one at decent price. I have a brand new air/air hx for a GM Grand National on eBay for like 130$.
The Grand National brings me to point I'm actually trying to make here with this kit. If you can take grandma buick V6 and make it the Fastest US production car for how many years? Ya that lower end wasn't like granny's but you get my point it was a V6 similar to granny's slug. And yes the Rhino is like 19 or 22 HP stock or whatever it is and 1000lbs. Our Rhino weight to hp ratio is just as much the challenge to boost as the single cyl bore pulse issue! I make my slug go pretty darn well as my siggy reads. I really cannot make it go any faster w/o motor work ot turbo. I know the motor heads will pray for my failure and stick to the Gulliver cartoon phrase"It i'll never work...! Lol... I'm going to make this work. Trust me on that! I'll outline and document everything as I go with videos and 100 yard times before and after. I have to install a new CVT belt today and I'll take the vid of 100yrd run top speed on and off N20 etc. I don't know if I'm going to dyno before since having trouble finding peeps that have done rhino before. Maybe some1 can give me some advice since I never dyno anything before. I would like to know what my upgrades in siggy put out in HP just so I know and have documented before I start teardown.
CV Carb : Before ya'll start ranting I already know... lol
Theis OE carb cannot be dialed thruout the entire range due to it's design nature whatever I have been beat into my head. I know this carb from tuning so well I not afraid to try my expertise on it but I made a big discovery yesterday. I'm calling KMS AZ about their RRFPR they use on Turbo Raptors and I spoke with the owner Kelly for like and hour and half. This guy is the king of knowledge of Yamaha Rhino performance! I got so much info in that conversation it was amazing to have a guy that inthusiastic as I was about Rhinos in general. In a nutshell he has done so much field and dyno testing boosting our 660 with carb(s) it was numbing to hear that type of effort put forth. He has deleloped a boost carb that freaking works whole range of boost. He does it with slide carb and fuel acc pump fully adjustable. The key he said is to have everything fully adjustable in fine incriments and carb is NOT "boxed" as I once thought had to be done. (I still don't quite nuderstand the "boxed" theroy and maybe some1 could explain this to me) He also has made some other changes to this mikuni slide. He has deleloped a special mod to RRFPR he sells and was nice enough to give me the deltta p data I've been trying to scratch up. PM me is you want that data. He also said he does not sell this boost carb unless he speaks to the person and knows they can tune and wrench and know the risks. He mentions the graveyard of carbs tried and failed to his goal. I'm just glad he didn't give up like I said there is a gzillion 660 carb rhinos who could use some boost. "It will never work" or "rhinos are just slow" is not good enough for me. He says now he won't convert 660 to FI since carb is a sucess 100%. If he gets a FI he will FI turbo and if come in carb he carb turbos and prefers the carb kit now from what i gathered. So ya'll can stop saying "Ya havta FI to make a turbo work" Spare me that noise please. The code has been cracked baby! Thanks to KMS hard work and detication to the cause and our goal(s) to have a full range tuneable carb for boost applications!
Yes, the turbo RZRs make us look more of a slug and I'm not going out to buy a ugly/weird looking RZR like the rest of the world is doing. Yamaha is losing business like no other but I'm a Yamaha Rhino supporter. I don't jump ship and stay loyal to my convictions. The way I see it I used to kick evey1 butt 2 years ago even the RZR 800 when it came out I was faster. I know I'll never match that 14 PSI boost and that twin motor performance MCX has but those monkeys have a rev limit of 63 MPH. I guess kit does not want that 14PSI boost beyond a certain level rev. That's why those RZR turbo guys won't race you on a rolling start to WOT cuz they are limited so motor safe under that 14 PSI is what I'm guessing. They ONLY like to do the 100yrd run and shut er down I've been noticing. Heck I do 63 MPH on the street when I hit the N20 but limited to about 49-52 top speed (no N20) in rough flat sand on average. "Ive done 61 MPH in wet sand on beach once too (w N20). So there is some wiggle room to catch up. I feel I will end up around 8-9 lbs if relaible boost after tuning or maybe a little more but that will be about it. I'm aware I will not be able to do the 14 PSI boost and those MCX kit on that twin motor but I do have the Edlebrock Nitrous kit installed too so I'll be armed to the hilt when project is complete. I may need some advice soon where to re-locate my wet N20 nozzle in the plenium I'm fabricationg or should I direct port in intake manifold. I was wondering on boost apps if N20 spray nozzle is better suited in the plenium box a bit further upstream. Where I have now in rubber carb boot spraying towards carb inlet like 3" away. That set up workes great now but I have to replace boot with plenium now.
Wish me Luck Yamaha junkies!
Dad_x3 :147:
P.S. I'm not changing pistion to low compression as kits above either and running race gas exclusively. That should get the nay sayers going...lol...
Feel free to view my bucket thruout this effort. This kit was 725$ including shipping and has everything to every screw and manual.
Login to a private Photobucket.com album
I have spoke to too many people whom have good and reliable sucess with boost on carb 660 and the fact that the TS kits are availible cheap on the used market makes this cost effective for me to try. I spent an hour on the phone with the owner of TS and was very helpful to my project. I explained I'm taking his TS kit I bought on the used market and changing the draw design to a blow similar to MCX and he gave me some suggestions and process imporvements their shop is currently do now with the TS kit -mostly hardware upgrades i'll outline later and the fuel regulator upgrade which kit I bought has all that too He also mentioned 100% every1 who lost motor on his kit ran the set up lean. I think we already knew that from old postes here and he confirmed.
If I did I would but I don't have the 4.7K for the MCX 660 kit but thier RZR kits are amazing! I've seen the field testing first hand for a year now. There was like I'm guessing maybe dozen Turbo RZRs were at Dunefest 09' and vs. like 1 I saw last year. They are using using a world class snowmobile turbo, and "blow thru design" up to 14 PSI boost!
For the 660 kit they use a plenuim which helps the single cyl pulse issue and stores boost when needed under certain conditions from how I undertand. They use the stock Rhino CV carb and use a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR). TS kit has this same upgrade RRFPR with my kit but in a blow application you have to maintain the delta p thruout the entire boost and the TS kit is a draw and different animal all together related to carb and fuel pressure delivery demand so thier RRFPR is going to fall short of what is required by a blow design. They also use a air/air hx and I've read makes the air cold on outlet! I've been in contact with MCX and they have been also helpful to my project. Trey is gonna contact me when he gets back to the states. I'll fly their MCX air/air hx logo if he'll sell me one at decent price. I have a brand new air/air hx for a GM Grand National on eBay for like 130$.
The Grand National brings me to point I'm actually trying to make here with this kit. If you can take grandma buick V6 and make it the Fastest US production car for how many years? Ya that lower end wasn't like granny's but you get my point it was a V6 similar to granny's slug. And yes the Rhino is like 19 or 22 HP stock or whatever it is and 1000lbs. Our Rhino weight to hp ratio is just as much the challenge to boost as the single cyl bore pulse issue! I make my slug go pretty darn well as my siggy reads. I really cannot make it go any faster w/o motor work ot turbo. I know the motor heads will pray for my failure and stick to the Gulliver cartoon phrase"It i'll never work...! Lol... I'm going to make this work. Trust me on that! I'll outline and document everything as I go with videos and 100 yard times before and after. I have to install a new CVT belt today and I'll take the vid of 100yrd run top speed on and off N20 etc. I don't know if I'm going to dyno before since having trouble finding peeps that have done rhino before. Maybe some1 can give me some advice since I never dyno anything before. I would like to know what my upgrades in siggy put out in HP just so I know and have documented before I start teardown.
CV Carb : Before ya'll start ranting I already know... lol
Theis OE carb cannot be dialed thruout the entire range due to it's design nature whatever I have been beat into my head. I know this carb from tuning so well I not afraid to try my expertise on it but I made a big discovery yesterday. I'm calling KMS AZ about their RRFPR they use on Turbo Raptors and I spoke with the owner Kelly for like and hour and half. This guy is the king of knowledge of Yamaha Rhino performance! I got so much info in that conversation it was amazing to have a guy that inthusiastic as I was about Rhinos in general. In a nutshell he has done so much field and dyno testing boosting our 660 with carb(s) it was numbing to hear that type of effort put forth. He has deleloped a boost carb that freaking works whole range of boost. He does it with slide carb and fuel acc pump fully adjustable. The key he said is to have everything fully adjustable in fine incriments and carb is NOT "boxed" as I once thought had to be done. (I still don't quite nuderstand the "boxed" theroy and maybe some1 could explain this to me) He also has made some other changes to this mikuni slide. He has deleloped a special mod to RRFPR he sells and was nice enough to give me the deltta p data I've been trying to scratch up. PM me is you want that data. He also said he does not sell this boost carb unless he speaks to the person and knows they can tune and wrench and know the risks. He mentions the graveyard of carbs tried and failed to his goal. I'm just glad he didn't give up like I said there is a gzillion 660 carb rhinos who could use some boost. "It will never work" or "rhinos are just slow" is not good enough for me. He says now he won't convert 660 to FI since carb is a sucess 100%. If he gets a FI he will FI turbo and if come in carb he carb turbos and prefers the carb kit now from what i gathered. So ya'll can stop saying "Ya havta FI to make a turbo work" Spare me that noise please. The code has been cracked baby! Thanks to KMS hard work and detication to the cause and our goal(s) to have a full range tuneable carb for boost applications!
Yes, the turbo RZRs make us look more of a slug and I'm not going out to buy a ugly/weird looking RZR like the rest of the world is doing. Yamaha is losing business like no other but I'm a Yamaha Rhino supporter. I don't jump ship and stay loyal to my convictions. The way I see it I used to kick evey1 butt 2 years ago even the RZR 800 when it came out I was faster. I know I'll never match that 14 PSI boost and that twin motor performance MCX has but those monkeys have a rev limit of 63 MPH. I guess kit does not want that 14PSI boost beyond a certain level rev. That's why those RZR turbo guys won't race you on a rolling start to WOT cuz they are limited so motor safe under that 14 PSI is what I'm guessing. They ONLY like to do the 100yrd run and shut er down I've been noticing. Heck I do 63 MPH on the street when I hit the N20 but limited to about 49-52 top speed (no N20) in rough flat sand on average. "Ive done 61 MPH in wet sand on beach once too (w N20). So there is some wiggle room to catch up. I feel I will end up around 8-9 lbs if relaible boost after tuning or maybe a little more but that will be about it. I'm aware I will not be able to do the 14 PSI boost and those MCX kit on that twin motor but I do have the Edlebrock Nitrous kit installed too so I'll be armed to the hilt when project is complete. I may need some advice soon where to re-locate my wet N20 nozzle in the plenium I'm fabricationg or should I direct port in intake manifold. I was wondering on boost apps if N20 spray nozzle is better suited in the plenium box a bit further upstream. Where I have now in rubber carb boot spraying towards carb inlet like 3" away. That set up workes great now but I have to replace boot with plenium now.
Wish me Luck Yamaha junkies!
Dad_x3 :147:
P.S. I'm not changing pistion to low compression as kits above either and running race gas exclusively. That should get the nay sayers going...lol...
Feel free to view my bucket thruout this effort. This kit was 725$ including shipping and has everything to every screw and manual.
Login to a private Photobucket.com album