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Yamaha Rhino 660 "Poorboy Turbo Project"

192K views 959 replies 42 participants last post by  Dad_X3 
#1 · (Edited)
Yamaha Rhino 660 "Poorboy Turbo Project"

I have spoke to too many people whom have good and reliable sucess with boost on carb 660 and the fact that the TS kits are availible cheap on the used market makes this cost effective for me to try. I spent an hour on the phone with the owner of TS and was very helpful to my project. I explained I'm taking his TS kit I bought on the used market and changing the draw design to a blow similar to MCX and he gave me some suggestions and process imporvements their shop is currently do now with the TS kit -mostly hardware upgrades i'll outline later and the fuel regulator upgrade which kit I bought has all that too :) He also mentioned 100% every1 who lost motor on his kit ran the set up lean. I think we already knew that from old postes here and he confirmed.


If I did I would but I don't have the 4.7K for the MCX 660 kit but thier RZR kits are amazing! I've seen the field testing first hand for a year now. There was like I'm guessing maybe dozen Turbo RZRs were at Dunefest 09' and vs. like 1 I saw last year. They are using using a world class snowmobile turbo, and "blow thru design" up to 14 PSI boost!

For the 660 kit they use a plenuim which helps the single cyl pulse issue and stores boost when needed under certain conditions from how I undertand. They use the stock Rhino CV carb and use a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR). TS kit has this same upgrade RRFPR with my kit but in a blow application you have to maintain the delta p thruout the entire boost and the TS kit is a draw and different animal all together related to carb and fuel pressure delivery demand so thier RRFPR is going to fall short of what is required by a blow design. They also use a air/air hx and I've read makes the air cold on outlet! I've been in contact with MCX and they have been also helpful to my project. Trey is gonna contact me when he gets back to the states. I'll fly their MCX air/air hx logo if he'll sell me one at decent price. I have a brand new air/air hx for a GM Grand National on eBay for like 130$.

The Grand National brings me to point I'm actually trying to make here with this kit. If you can take grandma buick V6 and make it the Fastest US production car for how many years? Ya that lower end wasn't like granny's but you get my point it was a V6 similar to granny's slug. And yes the Rhino is like 19 or 22 HP stock or whatever it is and 1000lbs. Our Rhino weight to hp ratio is just as much the challenge to boost as the single cyl bore pulse issue! I make my slug go pretty darn well as my siggy reads. I really cannot make it go any faster w/o motor work ot turbo. I know the motor heads will pray for my failure and stick to the Gulliver cartoon phrase"It i'll never work...! Lol... I'm going to make this work. Trust me on that! I'll outline and document everything as I go with videos and 100 yard times before and after. I have to install a new CVT belt today and I'll take the vid of 100yrd run top speed on and off N20 etc. I don't know if I'm going to dyno before since having trouble finding peeps that have done rhino before. Maybe some1 can give me some advice since I never dyno anything before. I would like to know what my upgrades in siggy put out in HP just so I know and have documented before I start teardown.

CV Carb : Before ya'll start ranting I already know... lol

Theis OE carb cannot be dialed thruout the entire range due to it's design nature whatever I have been beat into my head. I know this carb from tuning so well I not afraid to try my expertise on it but I made a big discovery yesterday. I'm calling KMS AZ about their RRFPR they use on Turbo Raptors and I spoke with the owner Kelly for like and hour and half. This guy is the king of knowledge of Yamaha Rhino performance! I got so much info in that conversation it was amazing to have a guy that inthusiastic as I was about Rhinos in general. In a nutshell he has done so much field and dyno testing boosting our 660 with carb(s) it was numbing to hear that type of effort put forth. He has deleloped a boost carb that freaking works whole range of boost. He does it with slide carb and fuel acc pump fully adjustable. The key he said is to have everything fully adjustable in fine incriments and carb is NOT "boxed" as I once thought had to be done. (I still don't quite nuderstand the "boxed" theroy and maybe some1 could explain this to me) He also has made some other changes to this mikuni slide. He has deleloped a special mod to RRFPR he sells and was nice enough to give me the deltta p data I've been trying to scratch up. PM me is you want that data. He also said he does not sell this boost carb unless he speaks to the person and knows they can tune and wrench and know the risks. He mentions the graveyard of carbs tried and failed to his goal. I'm just glad he didn't give up like I said there is a gzillion 660 carb rhinos who could use some boost. "It will never work" or "rhinos are just slow" is not good enough for me. He says now he won't convert 660 to FI since carb is a sucess 100%. If he gets a FI he will FI turbo and if come in carb he carb turbos and prefers the carb kit now from what i gathered. So ya'll can stop saying "Ya havta FI to make a turbo work" Spare me that noise please. The code has been cracked baby! Thanks to KMS hard work and detication to the cause and our goal(s) to have a full range tuneable carb for boost applications!

Yes, the turbo RZRs make us look more of a slug and I'm not going out to buy a ugly/weird looking RZR like the rest of the world is doing. Yamaha is losing business like no other but I'm a Yamaha Rhino supporter. I don't jump ship and stay loyal to my convictions. The way I see it I used to kick evey1 butt 2 years ago even the RZR 800 when it came out I was faster. I know I'll never match that 14 PSI boost and that twin motor performance MCX has but those monkeys have a rev limit of 63 MPH. I guess kit does not want that 14PSI boost beyond a certain level rev. That's why those RZR turbo guys won't race you on a rolling start to WOT cuz they are limited so motor safe under that 14 PSI is what I'm guessing. They ONLY like to do the 100yrd run and shut er down I've been noticing. Heck I do 63 MPH on the street when I hit the N20 but limited to about 49-52 top speed (no N20) in rough flat sand on average. "Ive done 61 MPH in wet sand on beach once too (w N20). So there is some wiggle room to catch up. I feel I will end up around 8-9 lbs if relaible boost after tuning or maybe a little more but that will be about it. I'm aware I will not be able to do the 14 PSI boost and those MCX kit on that twin motor but I do have the Edlebrock Nitrous kit installed too so I'll be armed to the hilt when project is complete. I may need some advice soon where to re-locate my wet N20 nozzle in the plenium I'm fabricationg or should I direct port in intake manifold. I was wondering on boost apps if N20 spray nozzle is better suited in the plenium box a bit further upstream. Where I have now in rubber carb boot spraying towards carb inlet like 3" away. That set up workes great now but I have to replace boot with plenium now.


Wish me Luck Yamaha junkies!

Dad_x3 :147:

P.S. I'm not changing pistion to low compression as kits above either and running race gas exclusively. That should get the nay sayers going...lol...

Feel free to view my bucket thruout this effort. This kit was 725$ including shipping and has everything to every screw and manual.
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#2 ·
What turbo are you going to use? I believe proper turbo sizing on the hot and cold side is the biggest challenge on a Rhino.
 
#4 · (Edited)
What turbo are you going to use? I believe proper turbo sizing on the hot and cold side is the biggest challenge on a Rhino.
Kinda stuck and commited with the Garrett GT20 from the TS kit(s). I can't afford MXC turbo or even know how GT20 compares to MCX version in size output etc. I would love to know that info!

Best,

:147:
Should be easy to get A/R size and compressor maps of each turbo.

I am not certain on the exact model of the GT20 they use but I think its a .51 compressor side, .50 exhaust

This will get you started. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html
 
#6 ·
I'm not real familiar with this MPI kit. I would like to try that kit as well down the road. I like how it stays with rotation of crank theory and makes sense right? Ya steal from peter to pay paul some but seems simplier concept first glance for rhino motor.

How much are they on used market?

Dad_x3 :147:
 
#9 · (Edited)
Little help on this clutch spring washers upgrade

Little help on this clutch spring washers upgrade for turbo HP? I was reading some issue with cover rubbing if too think and this procedure says add two washers to add some spring pressure or am I thinking of something differnt? The article is too big to post so here is the image:



Does any1 have a clue or range in thickness these washers might be???

I'd like to do today while I'm changing out CVT belt.

Link to article and fairly informative:

http://www.princegeorgeyamaha.com/turbo/pdfs/yha-rhino-info.pdf

so is this:

http://www.mcx-usa.com/media/cartwheeling_ohvturbos_article.pdf

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz86/Dad_x3/660%20Poorboy%20Turbo%20Project/turbo_rhino_660.jpg


This below is about the best custom Rhino turbo air/air and intake location I've seen to date. He won't tell be if he used a fan on that location or not. May not need it sitting in the good air up there!



http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz86/Dad_x3/660%20Poorboy%20Turbo%20Project/untitled.jpg

Best, :147:
 
#10 ·
Little help on this clutch spring washers upgrade for turbo HP? I was reading some issue with cover rubbing if too think and this procedure says add two washers to add some spring pressure or am I thinking of something differnt? The article is too big to post so here is the image:




Does any1 have a clue or range in thickness these washers might be???

I'd like to do today while I'm changing out CVT belt.

Link to article and fairly informative:

http://www.princegeorgeyamaha.com/turbo/pdfs/yha-rhino-info.pdf


Best, :147:


Just buy a Orange or even GOLD spring...and do it right...they are like $15-25, and then you can tune...buy Orange, Gold, and White springs...the white is the most stiff.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Just buy a Orange or even GOLD spring...and do it right...they are like $15-25, and then you can tune...buy Orange, Gold, and White springs...the white is the most stiff.[/QUOTE]

k sounds good to me. It will delay me a couple days on new belt instal and final 0-100 yrd test runs prior to tear down but might as well do all at once. I currently use UTV Crap duner kit with blue spring (actually painted white...) and 14.5 gram weights. I love this current set-up and gets me up the steep hills just fine and seems to handle the N20 15 shot up those steep hills too so what would you recomend next color spring to try with that in mind? Or what would be our best guess to equal those 2 extra washers?

One more thing since I'm in there I'm going to inspect the weights etc while I'm in there is there some suggestions for me to order some other weights to go with the springs? Some told me clutch this end not issue will be the other end won't hold the HP. I never been in that part of clutch cuz duners kit not have me go in there so prolly jus leave that OE right?

FYI: I have the stock OE rollers/weights and think those are 15.5g or something llike that. It's been a year since I put that swapped those ones out.
:06:Thx!
:147:
 
#12 ·
I have a built 686 and I run the orange spring and half 13g and half 14g weights. It works very well for my motor, I would think yours would be pretty close as far as hp with the turbo. You might wanna even go to the next spring after you add the no2 and turbo.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yes, I'm leaning towards the gold too for starters. I'm doing the 100 yard runs on street so I guess the stiffer spring won't crazy effect tthat data i hope.

Which one below is closest to stock OE spring? I imagine it's the RED

Fits: 400,450 Kodiak/450 Wolverine/400,450,600,660,700 Grizzly/
450, 660, 700 Rhino
Color Item Number 3" Load 1-3/4" Load
White YDS5 215 lbs 350 lbs
Gold YDS7 200 lbs 330 lbs
Purple YDS6 195 lbs 315 lbs
Orange YDS3 190 lbs 310 lbs
Blue YDS1 160 lbs 280 lbs
Red YDS2 160 lbs 250 lbs


Dad_X3 :147:
 
#18 ·
Sweet! no fan and how it fits behind the seats and roll bar and bed is still 100% functional is a feat! At first glance me and buddies didn't think it could fit but that custom set up is really something. See Joe, it can be done and I like this location better than RZR kit too!

This image pleases me each time i view! :147:
 
#19 · (Edited)
More delays... Howd this happen?

I was going to scrap waiting for spring(s) to arrive and put belt on and make my 0 to 100yrd run time and vid tape on and off N20 top speed etc and this is what I found. see images. I put this sheeve and duners kit in 14 months ago and at Dunefest few weeks ago i could not climb hills on the last day and got worse putting on the trailer we slipping bad so I thought belt wz the root cause till I opened it today.


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One of the nuts fell off and one cockeyed but that cover plate was still secure unless those two mount screws together let plate bend up nuff to allow roller to slip out of it's groove (i don't think so). I had to pry it off and tight! It's o-ring failed and missing pieces so explains the griz grease all slung out but why did the roller and weight turn sideways like that? Can that just happen? I see wz not much grease for rollers left so is that the problem with roller hung sideways like this. Or did it get too dry of grease in there? Could this be why I could not climb anything?

I'l getting new o-ring and rollers to re-assemble. The weights seem ok.

I just always hated that set up with studs and those cheeze nuts. Isn't there a better hardware concept here and still clear the bracket? It's so darn close and not sure what can be done besides locktite??? I stripped one out overtightening on install so ya can't crank em too tight. What about quality socket allen head type in a round head or pan?

My belt is good but 2 years old OE so keep for spare back up.


Thx! :147:
 
#20 ·
Tony, if you slamed on the brakes while you were going fast enough for weight/ rollers to advance then the secondary sheave would hold the belt alowing the primary sheave to go slack, without tension the rollers/weights can fall out of place. the results are what you have pictured and the cvt is advanced so your gear ratio is high starting out and performance will suffer.
when i slam on the brakes or stop real fast I usually put the rhino in neutral and give it a rap so everything can go back to normal , the belt likes it and it does lessen the chance of a weight/ roller falling out of place.

The intercooler in the picture looks dooable although if it was me I would have to use a fan cuz the windshield. I'm watching this thread and I'm concidering the info you are collecting, perhaps there is a turbo in my rhinos future.......
 
#21 ·
Dood thanks Bud! I knew some1 could explain! U rock Joe! And yes keep your kit. I saw pic of it on your profile and complete! I'm not sure if I can cop for the KMS turbo carb by labor day since I have to get the air/air and custom RRFPR still too but should be have it running to go test some in sand with CV carb.

The key to KMS sucess besides he customized slide carb for 100% total adjustment and fine adjust the acc pump too but in a nutshell boost create pressure difference and the CV carb design is freaking clueless to make point short as possible... he created a boost carb that mechanically adjusts to the pressure differnce issue is how I understand it. It's only 450.00 like any other carb out there too! I'm very excited about this since Kelly at KMS said it is fully tunable thurout the whole range. This was his goal since he does not like to have a upgrade that only be tuned in one range but only to sacrifice another. And heck we don't have to take a laptop to go take a ride on the dunes like the FI boost arrangements I heard about. Let's go for a ride, oh wait I forgot my laptop... j/k.


Been tested and it about time party for 660 rhinos and boost tuneably and reliably full range!

Joe, FYI: Trying to make proto aluminum airbox today. Our MIG welder does have aluminum setting for 3/64 wire only (Argon) and we have some Argon. I bought bunch scrap aluminum diamond plate scrap for 12$ I'm hope to at least tac it up but I'm not a welder really. I do ok with the steel MIG for farm work type fixes with our Lincoln IDEALARC SP-250 but we never tried the aluminum setting - yet. I hope to tac up nuff to take to a "welder" to finish.

Later Joe! I can't wait for Labor Day at Hauser! :147:
 
#23 ·
lower starting gear

Moving that washer will make the spacer Item # 21 slightly longer opening up the sheave and running the belt lower in the primary sheave and higher in the secondary sheave.
Try it, but watch the clearence between the belt in secondary sheave and cover, also be careful to get the cam plate item #19 splines corectly on the shaft there will less room and it's easy to screw it up.

Are you camping or day tripping labor day weekend?

How thick is that plate you got? that mig should be good for tacking things although It's harder to mig tanks and stuff and keep them airtight. I can tig it for you if you can get it closer to me :)
 
#26 ·
Moving that washer will make the spacer Item # 21 slightly longer opening up the sheave and running the belt lower in the primary sheave and higher in the secondary sheave.
Try it, but watch the clearence between the belt in secondary sheave and cover, also be careful to get the cam plate item #19 splines corectly on the shaft there will less room and it's easy to screw it up.

Are you camping or day tripping labor day weekend?

How thick is that plate you got? that mig should be good for tacking things although It's harder to mig tanks and stuff and keep them airtight. I can tig it for you if you can get it closer to me :)
Not sure yet but am sure I'm there all day saturday till dark or after and may get a hotel in coos or srive home. I may camp on sand sat night if possible too and then get in a Sun morn ride that way. Still busy with plenum. I taked up fine after getting welder tuned to that aluminum and took home and made a little too big. MCX really crammed that airbox as big as possible and I have to hand it to them from their images it cannot be any bigger in that space I found out last night! Well done! Mine is coming along. I have to get some aluminum threaded halp couplers in 1/2, 3/8" and 2.25" pipe and take to welder. I cannot touch welding this box but tackin up went better than I expected and a few nubbers I have to grind off but welder just finish the outside welds when I hand over to him. A few hole saw and punched holes I may be finding local welder by tomorrow. I'd send to you Joe but postage etc and both ways. Tyring to keep to the poor boyee theme! No offense cuz I'd rather you do it! I'll post a list this weekend with costs so far and wants and needs I havent got too.

I learned something too yesterday. I was using chop saw grinder to make pieces to practice on and it does not cut like that much at all.... jus gay but I had to chop my tac d up box last nite at home and got the balls to use the table saw with my nice wood blade and cut box like butter! Sweet! Ya can saw it jus not grind cut it!

Later Bro!

:13:
 

Attachments

#25 ·
I think this may be best for me as you state. I love the way my duner clutch runs now and don't really want to meddle with that too aweful much. I get that thing up banshee hill as it is now so don't wann get gettin that all screwed up.

Thx Boost!

Dad_X3 :147:
 
#27 · (Edited)
Parts purchased, $ and wish list for My Dad_X3 660 Poor-boy Turbo Project to date 8.30.09


      1. Turbo Specialities Kit (DRAW DESIGN) Garrett GT20 series Turbo (journal type :grumble:) good used working with upgrades manual everything including every screw +shipping $725
      2. Alloy scrap metal for plenum $12
      3. Alloy 2.375" (2.062" I.D.) tube plenum outlet tube. $6 I'm to go with 2" (1.875" I.D) alloy tubing inlet to plenum since use some of the T.P kit tubing and couplers which save me considerable costs. Oops! I jus checked the carb opening is like 2.5" so gonna havta go with 2.5" plenum outlet tube not 2.375 as above. Back to scrap yard tomorrow.
      4. Alloy distrib fitting 3/8" x 1/4" (x 3) plenum ports $12
      5. Plenum FPT port for Edlebrock 660 wet nitrous nozzle size = Decision: 1/8"FPT alloy bung top of plenum. It won't quote spray 100% mid intake where mounted but can will custom bend an angle towards middle after welded. Better than even I had before!
      6. Boost slide carb custom from KMS $450 --wish list
      7. RRFPR custom from KMS 90$ plenum outlet tube --wish list
      8. Air/Air inner cooler HX unknown model and mount. I'm calling MCX soon to ask If can buy their rhino 700 Air/air and mount if cost effective? It's very nicely designed set up and professionally done! --wish list
      9. Blow off valve not sure what type yet but getting info and quotes soon.
      10. Turbo Intake assy -- prolly use my current HM K&N and modify to turbo inlet similar to the clean location of air /air. No cost excpept alloy piping and pipe size undecided.
      11. CDI Programmable Software _ I already own this BRP set up (325$+ software/cable 100$) and field tested N20 at 2 degree standard stage 2 advance pump gas 92 non eth for last year with no issues but those days are over. I assume I will need to drop that condederably. It has 4 pre-programmable maps and dip sw selector on the fly. I have dip sw selector in batt box now but will need to panel mount to front panel for proper accessability now.
      12. clutch mods: leaning towards MCX mod over spring change since I like my current set up I ran for 14 months and rather keep changes to a minimum here at first glance.
      13. Boost gauge gauge -- came with kit I bought but have to make plan for location and mount.
      14. RRFPR fuel pressure gauge - I have to make plan for location and mount--wish list
      15. Turbo intlet pressure gauge -I have to make plan for location and mount --wish list
      16. Turbo RPM gauge - I have to make plan for location and mount --wish list
      17. Wide band Fuel Meter -- I already have a narrow band but need to add bung for it in new exhaust that came with Turbo exhaust. Then find another wide band meter and bung that second O2 sensor and have both is the plan. Wide band meter model and type, $, undecided.
      18. Exhaust Studs - purchased x 4 Fastenol 7$
      19. N20/Fuel 1/8" flex line and ferruls to extend to new spray nozzel location.
I may have to use Sizmek console opening to add these new gauges.



This list above list will change and evolve as project moves forward. It is a bit more complicated since I am also incorperating my existing Edlebroch wet N20 kit and I don't feel comfy unless I monitor everythng and the new list gauges are just as much effort as turbo kit IMO. It should all pay off in the end during initial field test, tunie and monitoring. Oh and let's not forget there is N20 will be availible to add to boost if I dare try it! It should be nutty chit! DogoX built a MCX/N2O Rhino 700 documented on this site and raved about it to no end! I'd like to get details from him on the N2O and how it worked along with with his boost. DogoX? U still alive? I think that waz u I read had turbo/N20 right?
:147:
 
#28 ·
Joe the welder!

Joe,

I'm not going to have any shot at assembly this kit before Hauser this weekend. I think you called it even before I started about trying before labor day... but I had a chance but with the turbo carb, RRFPR from KMS and all the gauges I need and want to add it's not even close. I have a weekend just putting in the gauges and new wide band AF meter!

I was thinking I could take my plenum to you on Sat to weld when you had a chance after the Holiday weekend but I still need a local tig expert for custom alloy tubing down the road. Still deciding and no rush anyways now.

See ya Saturday!

:147:
 
#29 ·
Yep Tony bring it with you I'll take care of it for you.
We're franticly trying to get Tonys Quad done befor friday. The Tri z he was fixing on and riding @ dunefest is giving up it's engine, swing arm rear shock and radiators all going into his Blaster You gotta see The big guys frankinquad.

Text should be a fun weekend.
text me before the weekend.
 
#30 ·
Hey Dadx3 look up Pat at Thompson motorsports over in west Eugene for locall tig work. He is very good at welding/fab work and works too cheap in my opinion. Try not to stare at his teeth....lol.....they look like he his tongue is in jail! I can get his number if you have trouble finding it.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Tear down starts tomorrow 9.7.09

TEAR DOWN STARTS TOMORROW 9.7.09

I hadda fix clutch first before I could make documented vid of WOT top speed and 0 to 100 yead timed runs before tear down. I just want to know where my rhino stands at this point per my upgrages as in my signature below and have documented base for my custom poorboyee turbo project is up next! Tear dstarts own is tomorrow after ride at Houser today! So excited!

This below is WOT runs and last ones are with the 15 shot on pump gas 92 oct non-eth. I could have got another MPH with race gas but didn't seem worthy for this test and have tested that before 63 MPH WOT top speed. I accidently faded out on the first section WOT w/o N20 that topped out at 58 MPH. Then it fades into the N20 run at 62MPH.



This link below is the standing 0 to 100 yard timed runs. We did 3 runs each "off" and "on" the N20 15 shot since the accuracy is little scetchy. I'm pretty happpy with the results and rhino was running as best as I ever have it so this is all my Yamaha stock motor and head can do with current set up.



I've ran this for 16 months and no issues except where my clutch rollers came out of grove when me and Gary hit those rollers at 50MPH at Dunefest! And yes running Stage II 2 degree timing advance via BRP proggy CDI and not blown er up yet! FYI: Run on 10 or 15 shot on 92 pump gas non-eth and with 15 bottles run (X 5Lbs = 75 lbs N20) = no issues. The Edlebrock kit works awsome I can't make Banshee Hill my ***** w/o it!

I cannot wait to tear down tomorrow and start project "tear down".

Dad_x3 :147:
 
#33 · (Edited)
back from vacation(s)

:147:My teardown got delayed after Labor day Hauser from vacation in CA.

The start of NFL season is comsuming and some some reason the more older I get I seem to follow more college football more than just Cal and Notre Dame.

The plenium box is not welded since I have to incorperate the N20 wet nozzle port and want a well on top of box to allow nozzle to be thread mounted where will spray most optimally. I have a alloy well ready to weld next week and box is finially ready to weld up. I'm having Mercury equip or Thompson Motorsports weld it up so can have local west Eugene availibilty for more TIG work. I don't have pics and plenuim at work but send next week.





This old exhaust with KMS header and O2 bung will be missed for I finially got is 100% reialble mounted and clamped this season. It was a free flowing and got me up Bansheehill so I do respect it. I was a bit loud with sparky out and looking forward to what the turbo and Gibson sound like together. The weight difference is huge Turbo assy and Gibson muffler are HEAVY! At some point I may replace with lighter weight muffler to help compensate for the turbo weight. It weights a ton!
















I have the high grade exhaust studs matching and tap to clean the threads arrived too so will be mounting turbo soon. Boost/Trey said he will sell me a used inner cooler he has in shop at 1/2 off and gonna get that ordered this week so keep the plumbing part of this project moving. Maybe he'll throw me a bone a quote me a boost valve cheap too at same time!

The KMS slide carb and custom RRFPR regulator are not yet purchased. needa about 550$ plus shipping for this.






Time to watch some Football! Week 3 Baby!


Dad_X3 :147:
 
#35 ·
Tony, did somebody sugest injecting the No2/added fuel into the plenum? it seams to me it would work better if it was plumbed into the pipe between the plenum and the carb.


Also That gibson muffler is kinda like the flowmaster I have on the end of my Gibson header. that style of muffler is heavy like 15 lbs, but it's mounted pretty sturdy mine cooked the rubber hangers so I made new ones out of teflon. if it's aproblem for you I can hook you up. also the key to exhaust survival is letting things flex vibrate just slightly . so in adittion to the heavy duty studs you may want to look at some bellvile washers they are springy and will hold tencion on the threads and if you stack them like 4 to a stud tighten down till every thing bottoms and back off a half turn and it will allow flex and vibration but not loosen up. the exhaust system mostly flexes at at that ball socket so you're good there. although I have used 3 of those graphite doughnuts so far. I just keep a spare handy.

Hmm I was wondering how things were coming allong for you......
thanks for the update.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Ya I was told by very sucessful turbo N20 expert in town here to not inject in intake manifold or plenium neck and was instructed to make same as I had in boot much as possible. I 100% agreed since I field tested the Eldebrock N20 kit for over 1.5 years now and works great in existing location (rubber boot) about 3" upstream of carb inlet. This why I making a custom "well" and 1/8" NPT tap for nozzle in plenium even better than I had before. It is going to be perfect placement and I found a alloy cup from a by-pass valve we never use in shop and gonna be perfect/custom. I'm pretty excited about how the nozzle is planned on being placed now. It'll be done next week :arms:

I'm going to get those bellvile washers you speak off plus do drill all the nuts X 4 a run a "single" wire thru all four like Turbo Specialities shop does currently. Plus I have the TS bracket upgrade quich is required for jumping too. I have everything to mount all this this week. I make have to get mor details from you when I hang the exhaust and upgrade it now instead of later.

I should be ready for inner cooler and boost valve soon after. I have an assortment gauges to add and $ to save up for the final slide carb and RRFPR from AZ. Hoping to have ready for thanksgiving but may be a streach depending on how many gauges I decide on adding. At least another fuel gauge, boost x 2(oulet+plenum) and wide band AF. I sure like to have that Turbo RPM meter too but not sure that is set up or $. I already over budget with KMS slide carb addition to my orig plans. But not going to even try the CV carb and wait for the big payoff with slider is the plan.

Hey Bud do you have image handy on how I install those kwel strut thingys you gave me on Labor Day?

Thx! Dad_X3 :147::147::147:
 
#37 ·
Those struts things go in the frame where your Rear upper controll arm mounts, they takes the place of the nuts all it does is keep the arm and frame mounts from spreading apart if you bottom hard.
They will be a good thing untill you get some shocks and or mid/long travel.
a little bling don't hurt either LOL

Pm or text me your mailing address and I'll send you some belleville washers.I had to buy a package so I got extras. lucky 4 you........
 
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