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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yamaha Rhino 660 "Poorboy Turbo Project"

I have spoke to too many people whom have good and reliable sucess with boost on carb 660 and the fact that the TS kits are availible cheap on the used market makes this cost effective for me to try. I spent an hour on the phone with the owner of TS and was very helpful to my project. I explained I'm taking his TS kit I bought on the used market and changing the draw design to a blow similar to MCX and he gave me some suggestions and process imporvements their shop is currently do now with the TS kit -mostly hardware upgrades i'll outline later and the fuel regulator upgrade which kit I bought has all that too :) He also mentioned 100% every1 who lost motor on his kit ran the set up lean. I think we already knew that from old postes here and he confirmed.


If I did I would but I don't have the 4.7K for the MCX 660 kit but thier RZR kits are amazing! I've seen the field testing first hand for a year now. There was like I'm guessing maybe dozen Turbo RZRs were at Dunefest 09' and vs. like 1 I saw last year. They are using using a world class snowmobile turbo, and "blow thru design" up to 14 PSI boost!

For the 660 kit they use a plenuim which helps the single cyl pulse issue and stores boost when needed under certain conditions from how I undertand. They use the stock Rhino CV carb and use a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR). TS kit has this same upgrade RRFPR with my kit but in a blow application you have to maintain the delta p thruout the entire boost and the TS kit is a draw and different animal all together related to carb and fuel pressure delivery demand so thier RRFPR is going to fall short of what is required by a blow design. They also use a air/air hx and I've read makes the air cold on outlet! I've been in contact with MCX and they have been also helpful to my project. Trey is gonna contact me when he gets back to the states. I'll fly their MCX air/air hx logo if he'll sell me one at decent price. I have a brand new air/air hx for a GM Grand National on eBay for like 130$.

The Grand National brings me to point I'm actually trying to make here with this kit. If you can take grandma buick V6 and make it the Fastest US production car for how many years? Ya that lower end wasn't like granny's but you get my point it was a V6 similar to granny's slug. And yes the Rhino is like 19 or 22 HP stock or whatever it is and 1000lbs. Our Rhino weight to hp ratio is just as much the challenge to boost as the single cyl bore pulse issue! I make my slug go pretty darn well as my siggy reads. I really cannot make it go any faster w/o motor work ot turbo. I know the motor heads will pray for my failure and stick to the Gulliver cartoon phrase"It i'll never work...! Lol... I'm going to make this work. Trust me on that! I'll outline and document everything as I go with videos and 100 yard times before and after. I have to install a new CVT belt today and I'll take the vid of 100yrd run top speed on and off N20 etc. I don't know if I'm going to dyno before since having trouble finding peeps that have done rhino before. Maybe some1 can give me some advice since I never dyno anything before. I would like to know what my upgrades in siggy put out in HP just so I know and have documented before I start teardown.

CV Carb : Before ya'll start ranting I already know... lol

Theis OE carb cannot be dialed thruout the entire range due to it's design nature whatever I have been beat into my head. I know this carb from tuning so well I not afraid to try my expertise on it but I made a big discovery yesterday. I'm calling KMS AZ about their RRFPR they use on Turbo Raptors and I spoke with the owner Kelly for like and hour and half. This guy is the king of knowledge of Yamaha Rhino performance! I got so much info in that conversation it was amazing to have a guy that inthusiastic as I was about Rhinos in general. In a nutshell he has done so much field and dyno testing boosting our 660 with carb(s) it was numbing to hear that type of effort put forth. He has deleloped a boost carb that freaking works whole range of boost. He does it with slide carb and fuel acc pump fully adjustable. The key he said is to have everything fully adjustable in fine incriments and carb is NOT "boxed" as I once thought had to be done. (I still don't quite nuderstand the "boxed" theroy and maybe some1 could explain this to me) He also has made some other changes to this mikuni slide. He has deleloped a special mod to RRFPR he sells and was nice enough to give me the deltta p data I've been trying to scratch up. PM me is you want that data. He also said he does not sell this boost carb unless he speaks to the person and knows they can tune and wrench and know the risks. He mentions the graveyard of carbs tried and failed to his goal. I'm just glad he didn't give up like I said there is a gzillion 660 carb rhinos who could use some boost. "It will never work" or "rhinos are just slow" is not good enough for me. He says now he won't convert 660 to FI since carb is a sucess 100%. If he gets a FI he will FI turbo and if come in carb he carb turbos and prefers the carb kit now from what i gathered. So ya'll can stop saying "Ya havta FI to make a turbo work" Spare me that noise please. The code has been cracked baby! Thanks to KMS hard work and detication to the cause and our goal(s) to have a full range tuneable carb for boost applications!

Yes, the turbo RZRs make us look more of a slug and I'm not going out to buy a ugly/weird looking RZR like the rest of the world is doing. Yamaha is losing business like no other but I'm a Yamaha Rhino supporter. I don't jump ship and stay loyal to my convictions. The way I see it I used to kick evey1 butt 2 years ago even the RZR 800 when it came out I was faster. I know I'll never match that 14 PSI boost and that twin motor performance MCX has but those monkeys have a rev limit of 63 MPH. I guess kit does not want that 14PSI boost beyond a certain level rev. That's why those RZR turbo guys won't race you on a rolling start to WOT cuz they are limited so motor safe under that 14 PSI is what I'm guessing. They ONLY like to do the 100yrd run and shut er down I've been noticing. Heck I do 63 MPH on the street when I hit the N20 but limited to about 49-52 top speed (no N20) in rough flat sand on average. "Ive done 61 MPH in wet sand on beach once too (w N20). So there is some wiggle room to catch up. I feel I will end up around 8-9 lbs if relaible boost after tuning or maybe a little more but that will be about it. I'm aware I will not be able to do the 14 PSI boost and those MCX kit on that twin motor but I do have the Edlebrock Nitrous kit installed too so I'll be armed to the hilt when project is complete. I may need some advice soon where to re-locate my wet N20 nozzle in the plenium I'm fabricationg or should I direct port in intake manifold. I was wondering on boost apps if N20 spray nozzle is better suited in the plenium box a bit further upstream. Where I have now in rubber carb boot spraying towards carb inlet like 3" away. That set up workes great now but I have to replace boot with plenium now.


Wish me Luck Yamaha junkies!

Dad_x3 :147:

P.S. I'm not changing pistion to low compression as kits above either and running race gas exclusively. That should get the nay sayers going...lol...

Feel free to view my bucket thruout this effort. This kit was 725$ including shipping and has everything to every screw and manual.
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What turbo are you going to use? I believe proper turbo sizing on the hot and cold side is the biggest challenge on a Rhino.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
What turbo are you going to use? I believe proper turbo sizing on the hot and cold side is the biggest challenge on a Rhino.
Kinda stuck and commited with the Garrett GT20 from the TS kit(s). I can't afford MXC turbo or even know how GT20 compares to MCX version in size output etc. I would love to know that info!

Best,

:147:
 

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What turbo are you going to use? I believe proper turbo sizing on the hot and cold side is the biggest challenge on a Rhino.
Kinda stuck and commited with the Garrett GT20 from the TS kit(s). I can't afford MXC turbo or even know how GT20 compares to MCX version in size output etc. I would love to know that info!

Best,

:147:
Should be easy to get A/R size and compressor maps of each turbo.

I am not certain on the exact model of the GT20 they use but I think its a .51 compressor side, .50 exhaust

This will get you started. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html
 

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One question, Why didn't you try the MPI supercharger kit? Also you compression ratio of the piston in your motor is not what matters, it is the static compression that matters.

Good luck and keep us posted, I would love to see it run once dialed in.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One question, Why didn't you try the MPI supercharger kit? Also you compression ratio of the piston in your motor is not what matters, it is the static compression that matters.

Good luck and keep us posted, I would love to see it run once dialed in.
I'm not real familiar with this MPI kit. I would like to try that kit as well down the road. I like how it stays with rotation of crank theory and makes sense right? Ya steal from peter to pay paul some but seems simplier concept first glance for rhino motor.

How much are they on used market?

Dad_x3 :147:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
What turbo are you going to use? I believe proper turbo sizing on the hot and cold side is the biggest challenge on a Rhino.
Kinda stuck and commited with the Garrett GT20 from the TS kit(s). I can't afford MXC turbo or even know how GT20 compares to MCX version in size output etc. I would love to know that info!

Best,

:147:
Should be easy to get A/R size and compressor maps of each turbo.

I am not certain on the exact model of the GT20 they use but I think its a .51 compressor side, .50 exhaust

This will get you started. TurboByGarrett.com - Turbochargers

Dood thx for the nudge to garrett site! The site is pretty infomative. Site should help me with sizing the air/air hx which i guess has to be sized properly. Site is also has the blow off valve I need to incorp in this kit they have two diff types they offer. I need to do more reading on what kind I need or find specs on the MCX blow valve in their kit. I pasted thier list below and I would love to have these gauges in below if they really help me tune. I don't have a dyno in my shop and not live in AZ or I'd take to KMS. If I have all that data listed below and 100% monitored I could relay that info to experts if needed. I already have 1 thru 4 on this list below. I would like to get that turbo speed sensor if not too crazy exspensive. When reading their site seems kinda important data to monitor maybe?

Monitoring
The turbo system in your car should be monitored to insure that every aspect is
functioning properly to give you trouble-free performance.
Instrumentation used to monitor / optimize system
1.Oil Pressure (Required to monitor engine operation)
2.Oil Temperature (Required to monitor engine operation)
3.Water Temperature (Required to monitor engine operation)
4.A/F Ratio (such as a wideband sensor; required to monitor engine operation)
5.Manifold Pressure
6.Turbine Inlet Pressure
7.Exhaust Gas Temperature
8.Turbo Speed Sensor
■The most accurate way to calibrate and optimize a system is through datalogging!

Here is the blow off valve types: I do not a clue yet what one I need but would guess MAF.

Blow Off Valves (BOV)
Using the proper blow off valve (BOV) affects the system performance. There are
two main types to consider.

•MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor uses either a vent-to
atmosphere valve or a recirculation valve. ◦Connect signal line to manifold source
◦Surge can occur if spring rate is too stiff

•MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor uses a recirculation (bypass) valve for best drivability. ◦Connect signal line to manifold source
◦Position valve close to the turbo outlet for best performance (if valve can handle high temp).
◦Surge can occur if valve and/or outlet plumbing are restrictive.

Turbo model sheet: TurboByGarrett.com - Catalog

This is all the numbers I can get off the Garrett with TS kit I have.











OK, if I look at this part number above vs Garrett list it is a OEM custom part. Understood no surprise but it is marked A/R .48 as per my image above and maybe possible it is OEM custom more like a GT15 spec as I'm broswing their list. Hmmmm... what u think???
Thx gin!


Dad_X3 :147:
 

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You can find a used MPI kit for around $1000 bucks. My buddy has a bone stock 660 with this kit at 10psi and he runs heads up with my built 686. Not bad for a stock motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Little help on this clutch spring washers upgrade

Little help on this clutch spring washers upgrade for turbo HP? I was reading some issue with cover rubbing if too think and this procedure says add two washers to add some spring pressure or am I thinking of something differnt? The article is too big to post so here is the image:



Does any1 have a clue or range in thickness these washers might be???

I'd like to do today while I'm changing out CVT belt.

Link to article and fairly informative:

http://www.princegeorgeyamaha.com/turbo/pdfs/yha-rhino-info.pdf

so is this:

http://www.mcx-usa.com/media/cartwheeling_ohvturbos_article.pdf

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz86/Dad_x3/660%20Poorboy%20Turbo%20Project/turbo_rhino_660.jpg


This below is about the best custom Rhino turbo air/air and intake location I've seen to date. He won't tell be if he used a fan on that location or not. May not need it sitting in the good air up there!



http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz86/Dad_x3/660%20Poorboy%20Turbo%20Project/untitled.jpg

Best, :147:
 

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Little help on this clutch spring washers upgrade for turbo HP? I was reading some issue with cover rubbing if too think and this procedure says add two washers to add some spring pressure or am I thinking of something differnt? The article is too big to post so here is the image:




Does any1 have a clue or range in thickness these washers might be???

I'd like to do today while I'm changing out CVT belt.

Link to article and fairly informative:

http://www.princegeorgeyamaha.com/turbo/pdfs/yha-rhino-info.pdf


Best, :147:


Just buy a Orange or even GOLD spring...and do it right...they are like $15-25, and then you can tune...buy Orange, Gold, and White springs...the white is the most stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just buy a Orange or even GOLD spring...and do it right...they are like $15-25, and then you can tune...buy Orange, Gold, and White springs...the white is the most stiff.[/QUOTE]

k sounds good to me. It will delay me a couple days on new belt instal and final 0-100 yrd test runs prior to tear down but might as well do all at once. I currently use UTV Crap duner kit with blue spring (actually painted white...) and 14.5 gram weights. I love this current set-up and gets me up the steep hills just fine and seems to handle the N20 15 shot up those steep hills too so what would you recomend next color spring to try with that in mind? Or what would be our best guess to equal those 2 extra washers?

One more thing since I'm in there I'm going to inspect the weights etc while I'm in there is there some suggestions for me to order some other weights to go with the springs? Some told me clutch this end not issue will be the other end won't hold the HP. I never been in that part of clutch cuz duners kit not have me go in there so prolly jus leave that OE right?

FYI: I have the stock OE rollers/weights and think those are 15.5g or something llike that. It's been a year since I put that swapped those ones out.
:06:Thx!
:147:
 

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I have a built 686 and I run the orange spring and half 13g and half 14g weights. It works very well for my motor, I would think yours would be pretty close as far as hp with the turbo. You might wanna even go to the next spring after you add the no2 and turbo.
 

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I would go Gold spring personally.


I have exp with the MPI supercharger...I got mine tuned well, but the clutch would not hold the abrupt hit of power when boost climbed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I have a built 686 and I run the orange spring and half 13g and half 14g weights. It works very well for my motor, I would think yours would be pretty close as far as hp with the turbo. You might wanna even go to the next spring after you add the no2 and turbo.

Yes, I'm leaning towards the gold too for starters. I'm doing the 100 yard runs on street so I guess the stiffer spring won't crazy effect tthat data i hope.

Which one below is closest to stock OE spring? I imagine it's the RED

Fits: 400,450 Kodiak/450 Wolverine/400,450,600,660,700 Grizzly/
450, 660, 700 Rhino
Color Item Number 3" Load 1-3/4" Load
White YDS5 215 lbs 350 lbs
Gold YDS7 200 lbs 330 lbs
Purple YDS6 195 lbs 315 lbs
Orange YDS3 190 lbs 310 lbs
Blue YDS1 160 lbs 280 lbs
Red YDS2 160 lbs 250 lbs


Dad_X3 :147:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I cannot tell which model GT20 I have with numbers on the pump or compressor assy. I want to study the compressor and turbine maps but not sure which one - yet.

Dad_X3 :147:
 

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The picture of the intercooler on the orange Rhino is where it is designed to be placed with the MCX 700 kit. There is no fan included.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The picture of the intercooler on the orange Rhino is where it is designed to be placed with the MCX 700 kit. There is no fan included.
Sweet! no fan and how it fits behind the seats and roll bar and bed is still 100% functional is a feat! At first glance me and buddies didn't think it could fit but that custom set up is really something. See Joe, it can be done and I like this location better than RZR kit too!

This image pleases me each time i view! :147:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
More delays... Howd this happen?

I was going to scrap waiting for spring(s) to arrive and put belt on and make my 0 to 100yrd run time and vid tape on and off N20 top speed etc and this is what I found. see images. I put this sheeve and duners kit in 14 months ago and at Dunefest few weeks ago i could not climb hills on the last day and got worse putting on the trailer we slipping bad so I thought belt wz the root cause till I opened it today.


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One of the nuts fell off and one cockeyed but that cover plate was still secure unless those two mount screws together let plate bend up nuff to allow roller to slip out of it's groove (i don't think so). I had to pry it off and tight! It's o-ring failed and missing pieces so explains the griz grease all slung out but why did the roller and weight turn sideways like that? Can that just happen? I see wz not much grease for rollers left so is that the problem with roller hung sideways like this. Or did it get too dry of grease in there? Could this be why I could not climb anything?

I'l getting new o-ring and rollers to re-assemble. The weights seem ok.

I just always hated that set up with studs and those cheeze nuts. Isn't there a better hardware concept here and still clear the bracket? It's so darn close and not sure what can be done besides locktite??? I stripped one out overtightening on install so ya can't crank em too tight. What about quality socket allen head type in a round head or pan?

My belt is good but 2 years old OE so keep for spare back up.


Thx! :147:
 

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Tony, if you slamed on the brakes while you were going fast enough for weight/ rollers to advance then the secondary sheave would hold the belt alowing the primary sheave to go slack, without tension the rollers/weights can fall out of place. the results are what you have pictured and the cvt is advanced so your gear ratio is high starting out and performance will suffer.
when i slam on the brakes or stop real fast I usually put the rhino in neutral and give it a rap so everything can go back to normal , the belt likes it and it does lessen the chance of a weight/ roller falling out of place.

The intercooler in the picture looks dooable although if it was me I would have to use a fan cuz the windshield. I'm watching this thread and I'm concidering the info you are collecting, perhaps there is a turbo in my rhinos future.......
 
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