Yamaha Rhino Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering if anyone can give me some symtoms of wet clutch problems. I have about 5k miles on my 700, has near new belt, JBS Sheave, but it doesn't seem to be "hooking up" quite as strong as it used to...could my wet clutch pads be worn out by now? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
I'm home on lunch...I'll tell ya all about a wet clutch when i get off work at 430 pst
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, I change oil with Yamalube. I haven't heard of weighting them down? Do they normally not wear out by 5k? Thanks for all the resonses I've gotten so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,640 Posts
We dissasemble the wet clutch and add weight to the backside of the pucks. It definetely helps.

Nate

Does it change at what rpm's the clutch starts to engage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
hey mike...mine went at 500 miles....with everyting else working good...like your belt, primary and secondary....like you have i think...the motor will rev up before the rhino will move....with everything new like mine...if it is idleing...you just touch the gas and the rhino goes...same rpm....and its even worse if you are on a slight incline or a tire against something....its about 400 for all the parts Mike....the clutch looks like a mini bike clutch....small shoes inside a drum like a break drum..the shoes have break pad looking stuff on the outer part like break shoes....and mine the pads were half gone and to metal..and the inside of drum had groves....the drum has a shaft that is one part and thats the shaft the primary cluth bolts on....that drum is 200 and you need the neddle bearing that dont come out of old one..and like 10 bucks....the clutch dont need all the parts cuz steel...just need the shoes..aka ( clutch blocks) 99 bucks from walt in baton rough on ebay...then you need a shaft seal and gasket like 30...all from jbs except the blocks..99....and i did the 1 way wile in there for 55 and the oil and filter...drain before opening the cover behind primary....its real easy...just remove cluth cover...primary,secondary belt...a plastic cover behind them...and then the 8 bolt cover behind primary that is the shaft and drum for wet clutch...need any more info?...just ask...i'm watching the seahawks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the info Ralph. NateAlba, can these weights be installed by myself or is there some machining required. Also, If I could do it, where do you get them? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
you just need stock mike...the blocks are intended to "move out" from cintrifical force...just off idle....they are racing and hoping by welding on a little extra weight....it will help " Hold " the clutch blocks in contact with the inside of drum....but like they said you cant tell the diff...they are just hopeing...some do the oposite...they add stronger springs to the blocks...thats what holds them in against the force from spinning....they call it stall...i call it makeing your engines rev a bit before moveing...like a bad clutch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
I don't think hoping is the right word. Not only does the physics behind it make sense, but in application it has prove it as well. Our Baja 1000 rhino used to eat wet clutches up in the silt beds... Not anymore. Your stall or engagement is more controlled by the primary and not the wet clutch.

Nate

Ps. No welding involved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
your stall ..or ingagement...."is not" controld by primary or its weights....the belt is always tight and ingaged between the primary and secondary....the weights control the upshifting speed...and the secondary spring controls the upshifting speed...and both downshifting...the wet is the "ingagement"...and your right a not the best choice of words...i know you guys are racing and do everything to gain an advantage and every little thing helps...i'm just saying a stock wet with all good prim and sec will do just fine...even with lost of performace parts...if anything more...like racing?...i would do away with the wet clutch all together ...its all good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,640 Posts
I think a tuned wet clutch and CVT would give the belt a better chance of survival in a long endurance type race. Adding weight to the clutch blocks makes sense as long as it doesn't engage too soon off idle. Sounds like a better idea then using the Hit clutch for more holding power! Hahaha!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top