[seetown]

Ok so I just had the motor pulled an reinstalled in my rhino cause of the "common" reverse problem that Yamaha sells a upgrade kit for but the shop acts blind too. But anyways had them put new rings, oil pump, one way bearing yada yada. I took it for a test ride an it ran great but now when I put it in 4wd now it gets a vibration. Its not horrible but its definitely never done it before. Only does it in 4wd dont know if itll do it under hard acceleration didnt want to push my luck. lol

 

[Hunterworks]

Maybe you have something more severe but they all vibrate in 4wd, could be just after your build you are paying attention.

Think that might be it?

 

[seetown]

I don't know, I've heard people mention about the front drive shafts causing issues but I haven't took it back apart yet to check it. Mine has always been smooth. I ran the hell out of it in low range an high range in 2wd an never noticed anything till I put it in 4wd. I have your all sheave an clutch installed in it now an they shop was supposed to install the wet slug kit but said they "forgot". I was really eager to see the difference. Bad part is they even used the damn gasket that came in the kit.

 

[seetown]

If it did it in 2wd I'd be more worried

 

[seetown]

It's an 08 700 btw

 

[jimclemjr]

Front drive shaft/joints is where I would focus. Maybe they "forgot" something else......

 

[Hunterworks]

Keep in mind the exact same parts are turning in 2wd as 4wd driving meaning the front driveshaft too, so the only difference in two and four is the front diff starts pulling.

In 4wd I feel it in the steering wheels as a fast vibration I even feel that in my chevy truck in 4wd

Todd

 

[jimclemjr]

If they left out a circlip out of the joint or it didn't get seated or they dropped a cup and lost some needle bearings that they didn't replace then it may spin fine freewheeling but when you engage and put it under torque those characteristics may show up. Of course it is always hard to know without being there and driving but from brief description.Jack it up and watch it run but that doesn't give you the same torque needs. I would just want to rule out the shaft as the culprit before moving on. And a shop that 'forgets' a basic like the slugs loses a measure of my confidence immediately. I feel they need to complete the job without anymore cost and checkout the vibration.

 

[seetown]

Well I jacked the front end up just checking the wheel bearings an such then I rocked the wheels back an forth an I could see the differential moving. The one short bolt one the driver side was just finger tight an the long one was barely snug. The one on the passenger side seemed good. I'll know for sure this weekend if that was the problem I'd say so though. Another question though...is it normal for the radiator hose to lay against the cv boot on the driver side an axle and on the driveshaft boot? I don't remember seeing that before

 

[jimclemjr]

That could do it as diff probably twisted and gets drive line slightly out of optimum and then when you apply the torque you feel it.
Torque those bolts properly and it would not hurt to use some blue Loctite or if they are long enough maybe add some lock-washers or longer new proper graded bolts with lock washers ...imho
It's only normal if you want to suffer a hole in your hose and lose all your coolant 30 miles from nowhere. or ruin the boot and replace a CV prematurely. Hate to rant but that shop must have been totally idiots. when its jacked up that is full travel and it may not be constantly rubbing but it should never touch. BTW when it was apart is a great time to grease the U joints from inside but doubtful they did so recommend you grease the u joints well.

 

[seetown]

Yeah i am hoping that is the fix an not sure,what to do about the hose i guess if nothing else you can't go wrong with zip ties either lol. Yeah this is the first work an probably the last they are just closer than where I usually go an they always give me good deals,on parts so I figured I'd try it. As long as it holds together I don't care I can do the slugs I did the clutch an sheave myself. I did also purchase new pinion seals an they neglected to put them in also. Hoping they are something I won't need in the future. Being that it only has 2500 miles on it hopefully they have plenty of life left.

 

[Scottwv]

You need to see if they have the u-joints lined up...one spline off on the shaft can cause it to vibrate as well .

 

[seetown]

Well it still vibrates guess driveshaft is what I'll check next

 

[seetown]

So do the front an rear both need line up?

 

[Scottwv]

So do the front an rear both need line up?

The two joints on the front shaft need to be lined up , or in "time"...the rear shaft does not have u-joints .

 

[seetown]

Ok so how do u tell that?

 

[seetown]

How do you do that?

 

[seetown]

Line up the yokes I gotcha had a brain far lol I hate fooling with those stupid push pins but better than a vibration

 

[700rhinodan]

I changed my fluids to Mobil 1 75w-90w full synthetic and a lot of the vibration went away but mine is stock

 

[seetown]

That's something I do need to do but it's odd to show up all the sudden you can even feel it slightly idling so I'm gonna mess with the motor mounts a little bit see what that does cause its always been smooth