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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's going be the better choice, to upgrade to the steel spindles from HRC Racing or to just gusset the stock spindles? How undestructable will the steel spindles be? compared to the stocks with gussets?
 

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Well, HDHQ wants $400 to plate and tig spindles, I bought some $900 billet SCF spindles which I haven't tried, which should be great! and I don't think you can beat the superior design and construction of that spindle, and with stockers, and heating them up to do anything (made of cast), you're taking a risk, which I wasn't willing to take apparently.....
 

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for $900 you could have got cromo spindles fully tig welded
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, HDHQ wants $400 to plate and tig spindles, I bought some $900 billet SCF spindles which I haven't tried, which should be great! and I don't think you can beat the superior design and construction of that spindle, and with stockers, and heating them up to do anything (made of cast), you're taking a risk, which I wasn't willing to take apparently.....
Rhinocrap is selling the steel ones for $749, but I haven't really heard about there performance. I heard that the SCF ones can break and have. Like you said your taking a risk on the stockers. $400 is alot to spend if there gonna break. I'm just trying to figure out what would be best.
 

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Are your spindles not holding up Fergie?

I think the HCRs are the ticket for a replacement spindle... only think now you have to watch out for is the possibility of displacing the stress from your spindle to your tie-rods and steering rack. This happens on certain brands of long travel suspension out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are your spindles not holding up Fergie?

I think the HCRs are the ticket for a replacement spindle... only think now you have to watch out for is the possibility of displacing the stress from your spindle to your tie-rods and steering rack. This happens on certain brands of long travel suspension out there.
No...I'm just wanting to prevent problems. Seems like alot of kits have a problem in the tie-rod area. I've taken mine out a few times now and ran it hard, no bent or broken parts yet.
 

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hopefully soon someone will come out with a better tie-rods and steering rack
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hopefully soon someone will come out with a better tie-rods and steering rack
There's already companies working on this. There was one at the Jagged X rhino crash passing out flyers for a new steering system. I don't remeber the company name though. Maybe someone else does, but they gave away a free steering system.
 

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We at SBR Motorsports make the TRU STEER tie rod setup which consists of DOM tie rods with HD heim joints, and I have figured out a way to get back the factory steering geometry with out sacrificing anything as for steering (incorporated into length of pivotal points in tie rods themselves). Another major contributing factor is to modify your rack shaft the slightest bit by dremeling off 5/16" off the end of your rack shaft without even removing rack from rhino, then you bolt on clevis and heim steering and voila!!! (Thanks to Thad's recomendations at SCF, I've done this). There you got HEAVY DUYT STEERING with out sacrificing any geometry (NO BUMP STEER). You will also have to tap the steer knuckle in order to run my heim stud, so it doesn't come loose, like every other outer heim system I've ever used! I think I'm the 1st to do this for stock and long travel rhinos as for correct tie rod geometyry! This is the reason that some Long Travel companies claim they don't include tie rod kits with their kits,which makes sense. SCF sells their kit with SUPER HD tie rods, and some bump steer comes with it (we've been over this), which is part of reason for their new bad ass BILLET spindles (best part about it is they offer the most integrity in a front end now with correct geomtery from left to right w/ spindles). I am also having some rack shafts made right now which will be chromoly to replace the stock shaft so you don't have to mod up mounts for a custom rack. Its the cast shaft that snaps and blows up the housing. The housing is sufficient, and if shaft was too, you'd have the ideal rack without having to be mechanically inclined or no need to know how to weld to install simple chromoly shaft. Best bang for your buck! I'll post pics next week if I get my 1st run back by then. I was initially gonna get one from Thad at SCF, but I know he's really busy, so I couldn't wait and went straight to my machinist friend, so SCF is a place that should have that chromoly shaft in stock and ready to rock and roll right now!!! Not trying to throw a plug in for SCF neccessarily, just very content with the many products I have purchased of theirs. Thad sent me some new bad ass clevis's for free when I broke my rack, and he heard that happened. (since I had welded mine on). If you read this, or one of Thad's buddies that I know does, tell him I said thanks again!)

HERE ARE THE SPINDLES I GOT FROM SCF. GREAT WORK AND LIGHT WEIGHT!!!! I'M HAPPY AS A PIG IN MUD!



then here's our popular sand jack that helps get those tie rods, and spindles off!!!!
 

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Pretty soon we'll an have mini Funcos'...........
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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I have been running my same original stock spindles that have been reinforced with plating since we put together my rhino. They have been great....no problems with them at all, and we have hit some nasty whoops alot faster than any other rhinos......done that quite a bit, actually. Not to mention all the rocks I tagged at the Parker 250 - lol! I just can't stomach the thought of spending $800-900 on two front spindles - I don't care what they are made of........
 

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I have been running my same original stock spindles that have been reinforced with plating since we put together my rhino. They have been great....no problems with them at all, and we have hit some nasty whoops alot faster than any other rhinos......done that quite a bit, actually. Not to mention all the rocks I tagged at the Parker 250 - lol! I just can't stomach the thought of spending $800-900 on two front spindles - I don't care what they are made of........
I've heard of a few people that are just reinforcing there stock spindles. What exactly are you doing to do this? any pic's?
 

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I don't have any pics right now - you just reinforce the stock spindles with metal plate in the areas that get the most stress........you have to form the plate to bend in the shape of the spindle.....so far ours have held up to everything we have done to them.....
 

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We can do them for $100 a spindle... They get heated after removing the bearings, and then they get welded and forged over the curves and welded some more. Practically bulletproof. If anyone needs this done, let me know. We are about to do another set.
They will basically look like this except with cleaner welds ad newer paint. We didn't do these, just an example of what we can do for you. We can also install a steering knuckle support, so that they are indestructible.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
$100 bucks, maybe I should just send them to you and save myself $700. I might be sending you a message.
 

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we have sold a few sets of the HCR spindles and they seem to be holding up ok.. havent been used on a race application yet, but they definatly are a HHUUGGEEE diff over stock. Ill post a pic in a bit when i take one.
 

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Let me know when you want to sponsor me NICK, and I'll test parts for you, then you can give us the right answers on "Track tested, forum approved!" lol..... Waddup! later
 
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