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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My plan right now is to pull the guts out of the font diff and see if I can mount the open/locking part of it to the ring gear in the rear. Then figure out how to get the locking motor mounted and working also.
 

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My plan right now is to pull the guts out of the font diff and see if I can mount the open/locking part of it to the ring gear in the rear. Then figure out how to get the locking motor mounted and working also.
Awesome. Keep us posted as to progress. I would love to have my rear diff function like the front.

With advances such as SolidWorks and CNC machining, I am almost tempted to see what it would cost to have diff cases made.

Jim
 

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I recently replace the pinion bearings and all of the seals on my 2005 660 front diff.. The pinion and ring gear are straight cut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
With advances such as SolidWorks and CNC machining, I am almost tempted to see what it would cost to have diff cases made.
Jim
I hope it does not need a new case because it will bring the price up, but if it does maybe I can get away with just one side.

I recently replace the pinion bearings and all of the seals on my 2005 660 front diff.. The pinion and ring gear are straight cut.
Good to know! I think that would be just as strong as the curved cut, but only testing will really be able to tell. If this is the way it goes I will be beating the Rhino up pretty bad to make sure it works. I will definitely post video's of that!
 

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Very interested to see how this goes. Please keep us all posted. You may be onto a great aftermarket option to many.

I like the Rhino, just not the locked rear diff all the time especially trying to use it for yard chores, or driving around town with it.
 

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Curious...............
 

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My plan right now is to pull the guts out of the font diff and see if I can mount the open/locking part of it to the ring gear in the rear. Then figure out how to get the locking motor mounted and working also.
Before you tear the innards out of a front casing, since you would have the thing in your hands to flip it around, would you look it over to see if it can be mounted upside down and still have the ability to drain and fill the oil. There could be extra plugs or at least provisions for them? The story is that these front and rear gearboxes are the same design as the Grizzly. The Grizzly has the engine mounted motorcycle style, with the head facing the front of the machine. They reversed the engine on the Rhino, with the head facing the rear, so the front and rear gearboxes are inverted as compared to the Grizzly (so that forward gears do indeed make it go forward). I'm curious if there are fill/drain features there that make it invertible without any hassle. This history would go a long way in explaining why there are 2 sets of mounting ears on the gearboxes, with only half of them being used in the stock mounting scheme.
 

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Assuming the front diff can be used in the rear (flipped), what about the half shaft axles?

Are they the same length? Are they the same splines? Can the Grizzly axles be used? Or, will two new axles have to be made?
 

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Assuming the front diff can be used in the rear (flipped), what about the half shaft axles?

Are they the same length? Are they the same splines? Can the Grizzly axles be used? Or, will two new axles have to be made?
All very good questions. As far as I know nobody has ever actually tried using the front differential on the rear. This has only been a matter of conjecture and there are quite a number of things to work out for it to happen for real.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
My plan right now is to pull the guts out of the font diff and see if I can mount the open/locking part of it to the ring gear in the rear. Then figure out how to get the locking motor mounted and working also.
Before you tear the innards out of a front casing, since you would have the thing in your hands to flip it around, would you look it over to see if it can be mounted upside down and still have the ability to drain and fill the oil. There could be extra plugs or at least provisions for them? The story is that these front and rear gearboxes are the same design as the Grizzly. The Grizzly has the engine mounted motorcycle style, with the head facing the front of the machine. They reversed the engine on the Rhino, with the head facing the rear, so the front and rear gearboxes are inverted as compared to the Grizzly (so that forward gears do indeed make it go forward). I'm curious if there are fill/drain features there that make it invertible without any hassle. This history would go a long way in explaining why there are 2 sets of mounting ears on the gearboxes, with only half of them being used in the stock mounting scheme.
So would a Grizzly 700 (say a 2013) front and rear diff be the same as the Rhino? Would the gear ratio be the same? If so maybe the front diff of a Grizzly would be perfect for the rear of a Rhino.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Here is a sample of a website. If you are lucky (that is, they are the same unit), the part numbers will be the same.

2013 Yamaha GRIZZLY 700 EPS 4WD (YFM7FGPDR) Front Differential | Babbitts Yamaha Parts House
Thanks Jim! I don't know if there is a way to rep you on this forum, if there is tell me how and I will rep you one!

The rear diff's look totally different but the front diffs look the same except the Grizzly is flipped over! That is exactly what is needed. I am going to bid on this wrecked 2013 Grizzly.
 

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Please keep us posted on the results, and if something comes out of all this, it would be an awesome aftermarket product that someone could make a lot of $$$$ selling on here for all of us that want the option to unlock the rear diff, even on the ATV it would be nice sometimes as well. However the Rhino being marketed as an all around Utility machine Yamaha should have built it right in the first place LOL.

Will sure be interesting to see if this works out using another front diff in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I will keep you posted, the auction ends on Monday. I hope it works with minimal modifications. The only problem will then be getting our hands on complete Grizzly front differentials.
 

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A locked rear diff sucks when I am trying to make tight turns.

If you get this diff to work, I will install it on my VMAX swap. I have not fabricated the rear drive shaft. I will hold off to see how it goes for you.

Thanks for the update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Jim I just QUICKLY read through your VMAX build. That is a monster! Is it complete? That would be the ultimate test for this differential.
 

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Jim I just QUICKLY read through your VMAX build. That is a monster! Is it complete? That would be the ultimate test for this differential.
If I tried, I could probably break it. LOL.

The VMAX swap is not done yet and, I am still working on it. It has been a while since I posted progress. I think that I finally (??) have all of the drive line issues worked out.

From the inception of this crazy azz project, a primary design criteria was that the VMAX/SKIDOO assembly would be mounted on an independent (from the Rhino frame) drive train carriage. That is, the VMAX/SKIDOO assembly could be unbolted and removed from the rhino. So, once the bugs (and there have been many) are worked out, I will be able to duplicate the assembly and drop it into another Rhino, or other vehicle. On my "to do" list is another Rhino. The second build will be focused on "go fast," as opposed to gold prospecting, in freezing weather, hauling lots of gear up and down steep donkey trails, with three bird dogs in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well hopefully I can get this working and do the same as you are planning, make a kit that can be dropped into a Rhino.

Unfortunately I was out bid on that wrecked Grizzly. I will buy a used Grizzly front differential and actuator off eBay this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Well hopefully I can get this working and do the same as you are planning, make a kit that can be dropped into a Rhino.

Unfortunately I was out bid on that wrecked Grizzly. I will buy a used Grizzly front differential and actuator off eBay this week.

Edit (10 min later):
I bought it, I couldn't wait haha. I think I found a good deal, $349/diff and $99/actuator.
 
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