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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 2008 Rhino 700. It is great but it will be used mostly for farm work and I did not know that the rear diff was locked all the time before I bought it.

I would like to change it to a open differential with a locker similar to the front.

I have searched a lot and I have not found any threads about someone doing this. I only found threads with people talking about it and shooting around ideas.

Has anyone successfully put a limited slip differential with a locker in the rear of a rhino?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Benzo, that might work.

But I would like to use a differential that is made for the rear. I know the 2005 Polaris Ranger rear differential is open and has a actuator on it to lock it. What other UTV's have this type of rear?

Anyone know what gear ratio's are in them compared to what is in the Rhino?

Any reason anyone can tell me using a diff from a different vehicle is a bad idea?
 

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Benzo, that might work.

But I would like to use a differential that is made for the rear.

that is the better way to go

Anyone know what gear ratio's are in them compared to what is in the Rhino?

as I recall the Rhino was 3.67 (not sure anymore). See my thread VMAX-SKIDOO in the engine swap section. Rhino rear end ratios were discussed in that thread

Any reason anyone can tell me using a diff from a different vehicle is a bad idea?
You will need to fabricate new diff mounts and drive shaft. You will need to align the input shaft of the rear diff to the output shaft of the tranny. If you have the tools and skills, no big deal, just work and patience.

I would like to get rid of the locker rear diff on my Rhino. In some states you can street legal the Rhino (but not in the Rebublik of Kalifornia). Lockers don't turn well on asphalt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great info, thank you.

I will do some research to find out exactly what the gear ratio of the 2007 Rhino 700 is along with the ratio of other machines that have a limited slip w/ locker rear differential.
 

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Great info, thank you.

I will do some research to find out exactly what the gear ratio of the 2007 Rhino 700 is along with the ratio of other machines that have a limited slip w/ locker rear differential.
There is a good chance that the rear axle shaft splines and sealing surfaces will not mate up, as well as possible axle length mismatch. Custom axles if that is the case.
 

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Great info, thank you.

I will do some research to find out exactly what the gear ratio of the 2007 Rhino 700 is along with the ratio of other machines that have a limited slip w/ locker rear differential.
There is a good chance that the rear axle shaft splines and sealing surfaces will not mate up, as well as possible axle length mismatch. Custom axles if that is the case.
Good point Steve. I did not think about custom axles.

I see more $$$ being spent on the Rhino money pit. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is a good chance that the rear axle shaft splines and sealing surfaces will not mate up, as well as possible axle length mismatch. Custom axles if that is the case.
Good point Steve. I did not think about custom axles.

I see more $$$ being spent on the Rhino money pit. LOL.
Haha yea this may be turning into something that will be way to expensive.

Maybe adapters can be made.

What would be ideal would be if I could pull the guts out of my diff and replace them with limited slip parts. Think that could be done using the stock housing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was just told that the pinion has 9 and the ring gear has 33 teeth, so the ratio is 3.667. Does that sound right?
 

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you would think if this is an easy mod and low cost, there would be a ton of kits for this considering the rhino has been out for 10 years lol.
 

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If you are up to a hefty engineering task, you could consider putting a Detroit Gearless differential inside of the rear drive housing somehow. This is a pair of clutches that allows the wheel that is spinning faster (outside track) to over-run the slower wheel, both forward moving and backwards moving directions. This thing is probably sized appropriately for the task.

Performance Products | Detroit Gearless Differentials
 

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[/QUOTE]


What would be ideal would be if I could pull the guts out of my diff and replace them with limited slip parts. Think that could be done using the stock housing?[/QUOTE]

Sounds like the way to go. But, don't tear down your diff. Buy a used diff to experiment on. Check ebay, craigslist and the for sale section of the forum for a used rear diff. I have seen them sell from $50 to $350, depending on condition. Then you can see if you can convert it to a limited slip diff, without trashing your diff (and Rhino).

What would really be nice is to have the locking feature (dash switch controlled) of the front diff on the rear diff. Too bad Yamaha did not do that from the start.
 

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What would be ideal would be if I could pull the guts out of my diff and replace them with limited slip parts. Think that could be done using the stock housing?
Sounds like the way to go. But, don't tear down your diff. Buy a used diff to experiment on. Check ebay, craigslist and the for sale section of the forum for a used rear diff. I have seen them sell from $50 to $350, depending on condition. Then you can see if you can convert it to a limited slip diff, without trashing your diff (and Rhino).

What would really be nice is to have the locking feature (dash switch controlled) of the front diff on the rear diff. Too bad Yamaha did not do that from the start.
Yeah, I agree about getting a second to play around with. A busted (in the right way) one would be a good starting point. Might be able to snag one for free somewhere at the right time, before it goes into the trash.

The Detroit locker mechanism is always 'locked', but one side can over-run the other in a turn. It's like having a one-way clutch on both sides. There is a cam sort of affair that clamps the clutches tight under torque, but if one wheel starts to roll ahead of the other, it releases the clutch on that side. The interesting thing is that it is limited in cam pin shift angle so that it works just as well in reverse. So it ends up being a one-way clutch that works in both directions, if that makes any sense :)

The pictures and description on the website do not go into any depth as to how it works. If anyone is interested, I might be able to find some better literature in my files from way back when. A review of their patent on this says a lot, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What do you think about this one?

2009 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 08 09 Rear Differential 3 6 Manual Lock | eBay

It is 3.6 ratio open (or limited slip, not sure). I could see if it will be possible to use the complete thing in place of my current diff, or pull it apart and see if the insides can be used (with modification) inside my current diff.

Thoughts?
 

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What do you think about this one?

2009 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 08 09 Rear Differential 3 6 Manual Lock | eBay

It is 3.6 ratio open (or limited slip, not sure). I could see if it will be possible to use the complete thing in place of my current diff, or pull it apart and see if the insides can be used (with modification) inside my current diff.

Thoughts?
If I were doing it, I would try to get a Rhino front diff to work. I like the fact that it can be locked and engaged with a dash switch. Although, I have never looked into what it would take or, if it is doable.


http://www.rhinoforums.net/rhino-parts/70443-06-rhino-diffs-axles-drive-shafts.html

http://www.rhinoforums.net/rhino-parts/69692-front-rear-diff-digital-dash-steering-rack-carb.html


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If I were doing it, I would try to get a Rhino front diff to work. I like the fact that it can be locked and engaged with a dash switch. Although, I have never looked into what it would take or, if it is doable.

Jim
Jim, I totally agree, and that is what I am going to do.

I went riding this weekend up at Tug Hill NY for the annual Snirt Run. There was a lot of snow and I was sliding all over so I put my Rhino in 4wd and locked the diff for the entire ride (when on the snow trails).

I put about 50 miles on it like this. Most of the time I was wide open running at about 32-38 mph (the dash said).

The front diff never got more hot than the rear and never gave me a problem at all. This makes me confident it could work great in the rear end and act exactly the same as the stock rear diff when locked.

 

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If I were doing it, I would try to get a Rhino front diff to work. I like the fact that it can be locked and engaged with a dash switch. Although, I have never looked into what it would take or, if it is doable. Jim
Jim, I totally agree, and that is what I am going to do.
............
The front diff never got more hot than the rear and never gave me a problem at all. This makes me confident it could work great in the rear end and act exactly the same as the stock rear diff when locked.
A word of warning: If you put a front differential in place of the rear drive, it will need to be mounted upside down, else the rear wheels will be turning backwards.
 

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Take the front diff turn it around and put it in the rear end, then you have the gears spinning the opposite direction that they were designed, I'd think that would cause some problems.

However, I totally agree why on earth didn't Yamaha come up with a design similar to the Turf Mode on the Polaris Rangers? It would make a lot of sense considering the Rhino was marketed to be a sport/utility machine. Very rarely did I ever use the 4WD when I had my Rhino, the rear end pushing all the time generally gave plenty of traction. Most times though a standard open differential like on many vehicles would have been plenty just running around the property, a trip into town here and there, etc. that would have been an excellent option to unlock the rear differential and save wear and tear on the diff, tires, and axle shafts.
 

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If I were doing it, I would try to get a Rhino front diff to work. I like the fact that it can be locked and engaged with a dash switch. Although, I have never looked into what it would take or, if it is doable.

Jim
Jim, I totally agree, and that is what I am going to do.

I went riding this weekend up at Tug Hill NY for the annual Snirt Run. There was a lot of snow and I was sliding all over so I put my Rhino in 4wd and locked the diff for the entire ride (when on the snow trails).

I put about 50 miles on it like this. Most of the time I was wide open running at about 32-38 mph (the dash said).

The front diff never got more hot than the rear and never gave me a problem at all. This makes me confident it could work great in the rear end and act exactly the same as the stock rear diff when locked.

Beautiful house in the background. I love that wrap around porch.

Unless I am wrong, I see the following work:

1. Flip the diff, for correct tire rotation.

2. Build some type of temporary jig fixture to properly align the diff input shaft to tranny output shaft. This will also be used to hold the diff in place as you fabricate the new diff mounts.

3. Fabricate new diff mounts.

4. Fabricate new driveshaft.

The concern that I have is can the gears in the diff survive running backwards, 100% of the time, under heavy loads?

I have never looked inside a front diff. If the gears are straight cut, as opposed to helical cut, I would think that they should be able to survive a 100% duty cycle. But I am no gear drive expert.

Oh, before I cut off the rear diff mounts, I would fabricate a location jig, just in case I have to weld the original mounts back in, in the even that the front diff does not survive. LOL.
 
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