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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A week ago I decided to check out the Rhino top end. I have not taken it up in a while, so here we go. It got up to 36 and will not go any more. My Rhino will generally go 46+ with the front/rear window in and 53+ without the windows. When I crossed 30mph it appeared to have a miss or maybe a rev limit miss. I have a Moose Racing CDI, HMF exhaust, Twin Air filter, and re-jetted with DynoJet. I have been reading on this forum and searching a few topics, so I decided to put the OEM CDI back in.....now it will only run 30MPH and is up on the rev limiter.
I just serviced the Rhino. I changed oil/filter, cleaned the air filter, changed the plug, and changed the fuel filter. I have never been under the belt cover or sure what to look for. The Rhino pulls hard up to 30 before hitting the limiter. Could my belt need changing....I have never changed it. I have never checked the valves either. I am going to put my Moose CDI back in and see what is under the belt cover.

If anyone has any input please help me out. I have never been too deep in the Rhino before. I do have the service book, so maybe there is some information there. A friend of mine has a Kawasaki and said his has a belt change warning indication that has to be reset, but I don't think the Yamaha has this. I just want the Rhino to run right again and give me the top end I had prior to this problem.

Thanks,
Rodney
 

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check and clean ur sheave for sure and make sure ur belt is in spec, 1.32 wide is new 1.21 needs replaced, give or take a .1 -i think ,


if it sits for a while at a time, clean the carb out and the jets to ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Rhino does not sit and I run Lucus fuel treatment every other tank. I am not saying it isn't the carb, but to loose the top end it would have to be the high speed jet....to me you would have trouble with the low speed jet first.

Thanks for the specs on the belt.....I will check that and the sheave. I drive in a lot of dust and when it rains bad mud/clay on my hunting club. Hopefully it is something very simple. The Rhino runs very good until I cross the 30mph mark. It idles like a dream and cranks easily.
 

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My guess is the sheave... probably a broken/melted roller, or the grease has hardened ("lots of dust") and prevents the rollers from going all the way out - thus limiting your speed!

Unlikely to be a carb issue, in my opinion. If it was running waay lean, you'd get backfiring and other problems... not just top end speed issues.

Sheave/Belt is where your issue lies! :)
 

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you first think its a clutch problem...the primary is not moving together and changing you gear to higher top speed....or the secondary is not opening up and changeing your gearing for top speed?....but when you read your post over...you say after 30 it starts to miss?..thats not a clutch?...and you have a carb....a carb has differnt circuts....idle...off idle to mid...mid to high...and wide open thats your main jet and pilet needle....sounds like your main jet has crud in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The miss is hard to describe....it is more like a spudder ( like the limiter), but I am not sure if the Moose Racing CDI even has a limiter. I still have the original box for the CDI and the instruction sheet....maybe some info there. I have not totally ruled out the carb. I will know more when I open things up. Hopefully it will not be much....I have to have this thing going by Saturday.
 

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So its sorta missing...I had a bad reverse sensor causing an all the time rev limit. My reverse light was flashing as a I drove. Not a slow flash. Light a loose wire flash. Just something else to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So its sorta missing...I had a bad reverse sensor causing an all the time rev limit. My reverse light was flashing as a I drove. Not a slow flash. Light a loose wire flash. Just something else to check.
I have not noticed the Rev light.....with my after market CDI there is no reverse limiter. Thanks for the input....all is appreciated.
 

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I also had the reverse sensor give me similar problems. Pull the air filter housing. Under it is the sensor. The air box practically sits on the electrical connection. Unplug the wire and clean the connections. During reassembly, make sure it goes together smoothly and doesn't bump that wire off the sensor.
 

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I also had the reverse sensor give me similar problems. Pull the air filter housing. Under it is the sensor. The air box practically sits on the electrical connection. Unplug the wire and clean the connections. During reassembly, make sure it goes together smoothly and doesn't bump that wire off the sensor.
By the way. As I was having this issue. My reverse light gave me no indication. The only thing I noticed with it was occasionally it wouldn't light up in reverse.
 

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My problem was similar. It was the grease in the sheave had been contimainated by dirt/grime. I cleaned it out, changed it, it worked like new again. Later on I went with the greasless slider/weight system. No more grease! Good luck.
 

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Pull the cover off the sheave housing and rev the motor up while in neutral and see if belt is traveling to top of primary sheave.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You can ground the reverse wire. If the problem goes away, that was it. If not, it's something else.

I also had the reverse sensor give me similar problems. Pull the air filter housing. Under it is the sensor. The air box practically sits on the electrical connection. Unplug the wire and clean the connections. During reassembly, make sure it goes together smoothly and doesn't bump that wire off the sensor.
By the way. As I was having this issue. My reverse light gave me no indication. The only thing I noticed with it was occasionally it wouldn't light up in reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My problem was similar. It was the grease in the sheave had been contimainated by dirt/grime. I cleaned it out, changed it, it worked like new again. Later on I went with the greasless slider/weight system. No more grease! Good luck.
I will check this out....I have never been into the sheave, so don't really know what to look for, but I have to do something. I will check the manual and see what grease is recomended for the sheave. As dirty/muddy/dusty my hunting club is that could very well be the problem. I may as well change the belt while I am in there. I have never changed it since I bought it in 2009. Thanks for the input!
 

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The fact that you only get 30 out of it with the stock cdi and it pulls hard to rev limiter tells you it is the primary sheave...

canucklehead is right...

The factory recommends Yamalube Ultramatic "grizzly grease" which is $30/tub at the dealership...

If I were you I would spend that $30 on greaseless rollers...or put it towards a new sheave with greaseless slider weights...like the JBS

Also...if you choose to re-use your stock rollers I highly recommed you go very light on the grease...don't pack the crap out of it like the factory does...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
check and clean ur sheave for sure and make sure ur belt is in spec, 1.32 wide is new 1.21 needs replaced, give or take a .1 -i think ,


if it sits for a while at a time, clean the carb out and the jets to ,
I removed the belt cover and checked out the belt ride in neutral. I could get the belt to rise, but not as high as the marks on the sheave. It was probably a belt thickness short of the wear marks. I measured the belt and it measured 1.212" wide. According to these numbers (above) that is too small and needs to be changed. The belt looks good....no cracks/tears....and does not appear to be slipping. What do you guy think....does the belt need changing??
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pull the cover off the sheave housing and rev the motor up while in neutral and see if belt is traveling to top of primary sheave.





No.....the belt is not traveling near the top.....it is about a 1/2" short of traveling to the wear marks on the sheave and the wear marks are probably another 1/2" short of the top of the primary.
 

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You might need a new belt...

You still have to remove the primary and you don't have to replace the belt to find out what cleaning it will do for you...

99% chance the grease is hard and/or broken and/or worn out rollers and/or rollers out of position...

There is ZERO future in not pulling it off...cleaning/inspecting at a minimum...

The primary is clearly not fully shifting out...once you service it and put it back together and it still has a problem then get a belt...!

If you need a belt get a factory replacement 700 kevlar belt... they cost more but well worth it... check with JBS...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You might need a new belt...

You still have to remove the primary and you don't have to replace the belt to find out what cleaning it will do for you...

99% chance the grease is hard and/or broken and/or worn out rollers and/or rollers out of position...

There is ZERO future in not pulling it off...cleaning/inspecting at a minimum...

The primary is clearly not fully shifting out...once you service it and put it back together and it still has a problem then get a belt...!

If you need a belt get a factory replacement 700 kevlar belt... they cost more but well worth it... check with JBS...
Thanks....I am going to pick up a belt tomorrow. How much trouble is it to tear down the primary and inspect it? I have the maintenance manual, but the instructions are not very clear. Basically it gives a parts breakdown. While I am at the Yamaha place tomorrow I will pick up grease for the sheave.

Thanks agian for the good info and responses.
 
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