Temperature light
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
63 Posts
I started another thread re the same question bout a month ago as I recently purchased an '07. Apparently it is not supposed to come on when starting. However you can disconnect the sensor wire at the thermostat gooseneck and the light should come on. Mine did. I looked at the wiring diagram though and it sure seems like it should light up as a bulb check during the start sequence. there is a wire from the key start position that goes to the starter relay and this same wire also goes to multi meter or the over temp light on the standard indicator. My son has an '04 660 with the standard instrumentation and his does come on during the start,
Mine doesn't come either on my 05 660. Did pull wire off sensor and lite comes on.
Mine is 2005 and read manual on line and looks like it should come on when starting, mine does not. Did notice the manual says when starting with Trans in "N". I start in "H" but cant believe that would make a diff. I know you ate thinking just go try it but it is in storage unit and can't check right now.
But did notice if you unplug wire for light the light on dash comes on. What does that mean?
But did notice if you unplug wire for light the light on dash comes on. What does that mean?
Joined
·
654 Posts
It means it's working fine. Don't worry about it at startup. If it comes on while driving.... STOP and let it cool down.
Joined
·
214 Posts
best thing to do is ground that wire to the block and buy a water temp guage. then you know what it is accually running temp wise. this way you can tell when your fan should and shouldnt be on. i just dont like the idea of not knowing when the engine is or isnt getting hot until its to late and you have to stop and wait for cool down.
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
There are two types of sensors for the temp light...
One if for digital dash...the other is for the individual bulb type lights...
Both are just thermal switches...both switch at approximately 238F...
They appear the same...the difference is that one version is normally open...the other is normally closed...
I could have it backwards but 99% sure that the bulb type is normally open...
In both cases the switch provides ground...
So if I am correct the ground is normally present for the digital dash...and when the lead is disconnected it is the same as the switch going open...the logic circuit in the dash senses no ground and applies 12v to the led...
With the bulb...ckt is normally open...switch provides ground when it reaches 238F...completes ckt for bulb...bulb lights up...so in order to test it...you have to ground the lead...
A good gauge is the way to go...most gauges will use a 1/8 npt sender...
The oem threaded hole in the head is 1/8 bst...
One is 27 tpi...the other is 28 tpi...and the bst has way more taper...
You can thread the 1/8 npt sender into the bst hole...it will seal...it can hold 125 psi...
However, DO NOT try to tap the oem hole to 1/8 NPT... it will destroy the threads...then it will be a problem to seal with either threaded sender...
The soft brass threads on the npt will conform to the bst theads...teflon tape or sealant will do the job...
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT... it will only thread few threads... that's enough...it will be re-usable for the oem sender too...no problem...
The I like to use the lead for the oem sender for the gauge...cut the lead from the harness under the dash and run to gauge...
If you have a digi-dash you have to ground the left over lead in the harness going to digi-dash as said above to keep light in digi-dash from coming on...
Done...
IMO...the best temp gauge for the rhino is a Gaffrig marine gauge... 270 sweep... 100 to 240 scale... resolution is perfect...working range is needle more or less straight up...
http://www.gaffrigperformance.com/Products/gauges.cfm?theSubCategory=35
5046 and 5546
One if for digital dash...the other is for the individual bulb type lights...
Both are just thermal switches...both switch at approximately 238F...
They appear the same...the difference is that one version is normally open...the other is normally closed...
I could have it backwards but 99% sure that the bulb type is normally open...
In both cases the switch provides ground...
So if I am correct the ground is normally present for the digital dash...and when the lead is disconnected it is the same as the switch going open...the logic circuit in the dash senses no ground and applies 12v to the led...
With the bulb...ckt is normally open...switch provides ground when it reaches 238F...completes ckt for bulb...bulb lights up...so in order to test it...you have to ground the lead...
A good gauge is the way to go...most gauges will use a 1/8 npt sender...
The oem threaded hole in the head is 1/8 bst...
One is 27 tpi...the other is 28 tpi...and the bst has way more taper...
You can thread the 1/8 npt sender into the bst hole...it will seal...it can hold 125 psi...
However, DO NOT try to tap the oem hole to 1/8 NPT... it will destroy the threads...then it will be a problem to seal with either threaded sender...
The soft brass threads on the npt will conform to the bst theads...teflon tape or sealant will do the job...
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT... it will only thread few threads... that's enough...it will be re-usable for the oem sender too...no problem...
The I like to use the lead for the oem sender for the gauge...cut the lead from the harness under the dash and run to gauge...
If you have a digi-dash you have to ground the left over lead in the harness going to digi-dash as said above to keep light in digi-dash from coming on...
Done...
IMO...the best temp gauge for the rhino is a Gaffrig marine gauge... 270 sweep... 100 to 240 scale... resolution is perfect...working range is needle more or less straight up...
http://www.gaffrigperformance.com/Products/gauges.cfm?theSubCategory=35
5046 and 5546
Joined
·
214 Posts
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
