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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i had replaced the one way bearing and installed greaseless weights,also 1mm shim.The primary clutch spring is upgraded to orange one or the one up from the duner kit.Reinstalled clutch w/washers in correct places via my manual.Used a impact wrench instead of a torque wrench to tighten 22mm nut up.Making sure the washer covered splines before doing so. this is the second time i have stripped splines on the fixed sheave,am i doing something wrong?
Is it possible the needle bearings under the spindle w/slines are bad?Would anyone know if the bearing in the spider cage(the outer piece that holds the end of the splined piece)can go bad? If,so can the bearing be replaced or do i have to replace the whole cage?
Sorry about my technical terms probablly not correct.Any info would be helpfull please can some one help w/this problem?


Thanks for your time
 

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Ditch that 1mm washer! Is it a UTV inc setup? I used the 1mm spacer and had a ton of problems. I'm not the only person who experienced problems with it. The splines on my fixed sheave did strip like what you're talking about. I just finished re-installing everything a few min ago. It was a pretty expensive fix, having to buy a bunch of new parts including the fixed primary sheave. I got stranded like 5 miles away from camp and got very lucky to be towed back.
 

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Here is a picture showing how much space on the splines there is without the UTV Inc 1mm spacer.



Here you can see that after installing the 1mm spacer, there is very little room left on the splines for the slider plate. The 22mm nut also doesn't get a nice snug fit and will eventually loosen itself causing a world of mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The same happened to me but alot future from camp.Thanks for the info let me know how it goes.im on the third fixed sheave(when new one is installed).
 

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Hi There! Amazing, I thought I was the only one struggling with this issue. I just finished fixing all this for the second time in a row even the OD greaseless weights end the sliders cause they got melted during the process!! Funny thing is that the first time I wasn't using the UTV 1MM washer and got stranded like 17 kilometers from the camp deep jungle trails and took me 5 hours to tow the ride !! This last time only 2 miles to destroy everything. Just finished installing all the $500 new parts including labor and this time we used a high power impact wrench. So am I heading again for disaster?????? How are the other guys using 1MM washers or even 2 of them doing?? Thanks for the info and Help

Slds
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1mm shim

I hope this is the issue!Please let me know how it goes.Did they use locktite the nut on?
Good luck thank you for the input.
Ben
 

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We did use a red Loctite and let it dry for 24 hours before we fired up the engine. Haven't drive the ride since then , we 'll see next weekend if it works and for how long!

Salu2
 

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Here is a picture showing how much space on the splines there is without the UTV Inc 1mm spacer.



Here you can see that after installing the 1mm spacer, there is very little room left on the splines for the slider plate. The 22mm nut also doesn't get a nice snug fit and will eventually loosen itself causing a world of mess.
Damn, I know the pictures can be deceiving, but it sure looks like your missing more then 1mm of splines between the two.
 

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my car did this 3 or 4 times know. i dont think its the 1 mm spacer because i used it on mine. i thought the nut was backing off too. so i tack welded the nut. still stripped the sheave. checked nut and it hadnt moved was still welded. how maney miles are on the cars
 

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i had replaced the one way bearing and installed greaseless weights,also 1mm shim.The primary clutch spring is upgraded to orange one or the one up from the duner kit.Reinstalled clutch w/washers in correct places via my manual.Used a impact wrench instead of a torque wrench to tighten 22mm nut up.Making sure the washer covered splines before doing so. this is the second time i have stripped splines on the fixed sheave,am i doing something wrong?
Is it possible the needle bearings under the spindle w/slines are bad?Would anyone know if the bearing in the spider cage(the outer piece that holds the end of the splined piece)can go bad? If,so can the bearing be replaced or do i have to replace the whole cage?
Sorry about my technical terms probablly not correct.Any info would be helpfull please can some one help w/this problem?


Thanks for your time
Yes you can replace just the bearing without having to buy the cage. You a 660 or 700? We may have what you need in stock @ the best price around. Also, if your sheave is trash, you should try mine lol. No spacers needed & tons of bottom end.
 

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my car did this 3 or 4 times know. i dont think its the 1 mm spacer because i used it on mine. i thought the nut was backing off too. so i tack welded the nut. still stripped the sheave. checked nut and it hadnt moved was still welded. how maney miles are on the cars
I thought of welding it too!! In my case both events the nut got loose.
My ride has a total of 1600 miles . This time we replaced all with brand new parts and used a high power wrench , let's see if it works and for how long. Next step is getting the JBS sheave and getting rid of the 1 MM shime.

Slu2
 

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my car did this 3 or 4 times know. i dont think its the 1 mm spacer because i used it on mine. i thought the nut was backing off too. so i tack welded the nut. still stripped the sheave. checked nut and it hadnt moved was still welded. how maney miles are on the cars
I thought of welding it too!! In my case both events the nut got loose.
My ride has a total of 1600 miles . This time we replaced all with brand new parts and used a high power wrench , let's see if it works and for how long. Next step is getting the JBS sheave and getting rid of the 1 MM shime.

Slu2
once the sheave strips it spins againt the center callar and wares in to it making a tolorance betwwen the two. makes you think the nut backed off. the nut becoming loose is a secoundary probleum
 

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my car did this 3 or 4 times know. i dont think its the 1 mm spacer because i used it on mine. i thought the nut was backing off too. so i tack welded the nut. still stripped the sheave. checked nut and it hadnt moved was still welded. how maney miles are on the cars
I thought of welding it too!! In my case both events the nut got loose.
My ride has a total of 1600 miles . This time we replaced all with brand new parts and used a high power wrench , let's see if it works and for how long. Next step is getting the JBS sheave and getting rid of the 1 MM shime.

Slu2
once the sheave strips it spins againt the center callar and wares in to it making a tolorance betwwen the two. makes you think the nut backed off. the nut becoming loose is a secoundary probleum
I replaced it with a new one! What do you think is causing the stripping??
 

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I thought of welding it too!! In my case both events the nut got loose.
My ride has a total of 1600 miles . This time we replaced all with brand new parts and used a high power wrench , let's see if it works and for how long. Next step is getting the JBS sheave and getting rid of the 1 MM shime.

Slu2
once the sheave strips it spins againt the center callar and wares in to it making a tolorance betwwen the two. makes you think the nut backed off. the nut becoming loose is a secoundary probleum
I replaced it with a new one! What do you think is causing the stripping??
i understand but the old striped one probably has a groove in it from the collar spinning against it when the systeum started failing. causing the nut to apear to have loosend
 

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once the sheave strips it spins againt the center callar and wares in to it making a tolorance betwwen the two. makes you think the nut backed off. the nut becoming loose is a secoundary probleum
I replaced it with a new one! What do you think is causing the stripping??
i understand but the old striped one probably has a groove in it from the collar spinning against it when the systeum started failing. causing the nut to apear to have loosend
Ok now I get it. Thanks for the info. Do you think using the high power impact wrench will prevent this from happen again instead of normal hand torque wrench used before?
 

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I got a BB Trinity 734cc kit with Rhino Stage II cam, 16 gram OD Greaseless weights and sliders and stock orange spring!
 

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If that primary nut backs off, it welds itself to the spider cage (support cage) and causes a bunch of **** to go wrong... I've had it happen 2 times. It is costly as the primary fixed sheave's splines will strip out when the nut backs off because it slides away from where it's supposed to be...
 
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