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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Cleaned main jet and perforated tube out. And sprayed out w air. Carb looks good. Fired it up. Still no dice. Idles good put in gear and tap gas dies
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yea I sprayed it all down. Even got carb cleaner in my eye. Damn that hurts. It has to be something with the carb. That's all I can think of.
 

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Yea I sprayed it all down. Even got carb cleaner in my eye. Damn that hurts. It has to be something with the carb. That's all I can think of.
Yes you have to be careful with that stuff. Rinse your eyes out thoroughly with water if it is still bothering you.

It is a long shot but did you check the diaphragm as well? Also related to the diaphragm and the slide moving up and down is the vacuum sense hose. This is a rather big L shaped hose section that plugs onto a large hose barb close to the intake bell (pointed towards the airbox) and goes to an elbow fitting plugged into the rubber boot between carb bell and airbox. This is where the diaphragm gets it's reference pressure to determine the proper lift of the throttle slide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
New finding this jewel is super hot!! One thing after another wth!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Ok I search Internet everybody says it's suppose to be hot idk why tho
 

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Ok I search Internet everybody says it's suppose to be hot idk why tho
That is the Rectifier/Regulator for the charging system. The Regulator part of it limits the voltage such that the battery I not overcharged. It dissipates excess voltage as heat. Use a voltmeter and check the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running. It should measure under about 14 Volts with no electrical loads on (lights off, etc.).

Apparently you have the off idle problem fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Nah lol.Accidentally leaned against it checking out something got a little warm on the arm! Lol I'm gonna reclean the carb double check make sure it's clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
If all else fails I'm just glad I got it firing up lol. May end up loading it up on trailer take to my buddy atv shop leave it with him. Unless the good carb clean will solve it
 

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If all else fails I'm just glad I got it firing up lol. May end up loading it up on trailer take to my buddy atv shop leave it with him. Unless the good carb clean will solve it
Make sure that you push the carb cleaner, then solvent, then compressed air through all of the internal passageways. A spray on the outside surfaces, including the inside bore surfaces that you can see, is next to worthless as that is not where any obstructions will be.

Also, in your previous disassembles of the carb, did you mess with the needle? The needle position, along with the needle jet (at the tip of the perforated tube), is what controls the fuel flow at the beginning of the throttle on transition and then all the way to 3/4 throttle. Rearranging or leaving off the shim washers, where the needle is attached to the slide, will affect that entire region of slide travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I ordered the kms performance 450 slug kit didn't really say the weight. If it's too much weight would it cause it to die in gear bc of the weight on the clutch?
 

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I ordered the kms performance 450 slug kit didn't really say the weight. If it's too much weight would it cause it to die in gear bc of the weight on the clutch?
I suppose that it is possible, due to putting too heavy of a load on the engine at too low of an engine speed. Seems like you could see if it will rev up in neutral, where there will be very little load in spite of the wet clutch engaging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I'm sure it's something minor but I'm just gon load her up send her to the atv shop while I'm at it may get some new chrome shoes put on her
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok let rhino set all week while I was working. Came in today last weekend it wouldn't fire up. Now it fired up fine. When it's running I can hear the belt turning could that be too much weight in wet clutch ?I put the belt in the grooves of clutch when I put it back together. Try to put it in gear and it dies. Then I haveta shake the lever and rock rhino to get it out of gear. It won't take much time to just take the weights out. Also is there a certain way the belt goes on ? Could that have anything to do with it?
 

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Ok let rhino set all week while I was working. Came in today last weekend it wouldn't fire up. Now it fired up fine. When it's running I can hear the belt turning could that be too much weight in wet clutch ?I put the belt in the grooves of clutch when I put it back together. Try to put it in gear and it dies. Then I haveta shake the lever and rock rhino to get it out of gear. It won't take much time to just take the weights out. Also is there a certain way the belt goes on ? Could that have anything to do with it?
On the starting issue, check the battery voltage. A lot of repeated cranking to start can deplete the battery and a long sit can let the battery regain part of it's charge. The measured voltage across the battery terminals should measure 12.7 Volts. 12 Volts is a half discharged battery to give you a frame of reference.

If the idle speed is set too high you can experience this resistance and/or clunking when trying to get it into gear, even with a stock wet clutch (no added weighting). I imagine that it can get much more pronounced with the weighting. Try reducing the idle speed with the large round knob located in the throttle cable tower along the side of the carb. The 450 service manual specs the Engine idle speed at 1,450 ~ 1,550 RPM. If you reduce the RPM and all works fine then you are home free. If that RPM ends up being a stumble/stall problem at clutch engagement then you will likely have to reduce the added weight. The 450 wet clutch weighting is a relatively new thing and it may not be fully sorted out yet.
 

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I think it's a good idea to adjust your idle down per Steve's advice.

I don't think it is the wet clutch weight as I have weighted mine with molten lead, to the top of the cavity and ground off. However, if your one way bearing is in backwards or if any of the bearings were turned or moved prior to install, you will receive symptoms like described.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Ok idled down its good still a little stiff to shift. Changing subject. I have water in radiator fire up bleed air out screw bleeder screw down. Engine gets hot like hot to the touch. Radiator is still cool almost cold. I though head gasket was blown. I checked oil. It's clean. What's up is water pump shot? There's fluid in both hoses feeder hose and return hose
 

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Are you sure you have the primary clutch back together properly, since you must have removed it to get to the clutch weights you modified, there are rollers in there that can fall out of place..............
 

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Ok idled down its good still a little stiff to shift. Changing subject. I have water in radiator fire up bleed air out screw bleeder screw down. Engine gets hot like hot to the touch. Radiator is still cool almost cold. I though head gasket was blown. I checked oil. It's clean. What's up is water pump shot? There's fluid in both hoses feeder hose and return hose
Lower the idle speed a little more...

Diagnosing an engine as "hot to the touch"??? Like your previous panic on the Rectifier/Regulator? The engine will be very near the temperature of Boiling Water (212 degrees F) when it is warmed up and working properly. Your touch is way overly sensitive and not accurate enough to gauge whether the engine is overheating.... Go open the hood of your warmed up family sedan and lay your hand on the engine block! Cook a pot of water to a bubbling boil and stick your hand in it, that is very near the temperature of an overheating engine. They actually get even hotter before being seriously overheated

Get a temperature gauge installed if you want the temperature. An infrared temperature gun is a way to get a somewhat accurate measure of your engine's cylinder and head, on the outside
 
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