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Still won't start

9K views 45 replies 7 participants last post by  sgtcoleman0311 
So I found out I had starter clutch on backwards spun it around and put everything on filled with oil and water. Turned it over it spun once and stopped. Drained oil and water took everything apart. Found that the piece that caches the flywheel gear had popped out. So I managed to get it back in. Tried it again starter spins all day. But just won't catch and turn over but at least it is turning over or did once. Still need advice or anything been at this for about a month. Between work. And having an 8 month pregnant wife trying to make her happy and trying to get rhino going
Not at all sure what you mean by "the piece that caches the flywheel gear had popped out". The one-way is nowhere around the gear teeth. The gears are in continuous engagement, nothing comes out and grabs a gear to make anything spin. Can you provide a clear photo of what you are talking about? This is a Rhino, and not a 1952 Chevy, right?
 
Where the starter clutch slides on. Starter gear maybe. You use the flywheel pulled to get off the gear
Here is a snapshot of the Yamaha Parts Fiche. The Starter Clutch (8) inside bore slips over the Hub of the big idler gear (6) that spins freely on the crankshaft. The outside ring of the Starter Clutch (8) is bolted onto the back side of the flywheel (not shown) and is carried onto that gear hub as the flywheel is installed. The starter clutch locks the flywheel to the idler gear (6) when the idler gear is spun by the starter motor. The flywheel is oriented by a key that slips into that rectangular slot on the crankshaft (on the left, not numbered) and is taper fit locked onto that shaft such that it cannot spin on the crankshaft.

Are you talking about the woodruff key (half moon shaped) having fallen out when you tried to put it back together? It orients the flywheel with respect to the crankshaft. and might have come out or broken after that single initial start. If the flywheel is not properly seated with the key in its proper place, by torqueing the nut that brings it all together to the proper torque value, It can spin on the crankshaft and the engine will not turn over when the starter motor is spinning.

Also, the outer rim of the starter clutch needs to be bolted onto the back side of the flywheel for the engine to turn over with the starter motor, just in case you did not do that. The bolts (9) are drawn pointed the wrong direction in the picture below, if I am not mistaken.

 
Ok I downloaded service manual. fresh start on it. if I'm not mistaken. I thought I felt 2 washers behind idler gear could be something else but I know it's suppose to have one washer. Have to take it off and check. Also does the woodruff key just set in the slot or should I tap it in to set fully in the slot? The service manual doesn't really say way it sets now there's a little higher than flush on the crankshaft
It would not work as a key if it was flush with the crankshaft. It has to protrude to engage the mating slot in the flywheel. Look at the bore of the flywheel and you will see how much it should be protruding to fill the depth of that slot.

You could consider using a gob of really heavy grease in the crankshaft slot to help hold the key in place while the flywheel is sliding over it. It is really important to have the slots in flywheel lined up with the slot in the crankshaft before you push the flywheel into position. If the flywheel is out of position, the flywheel will simply push the key out of the slot in the crankshaft, like a bulldozer blade. It will also help if the crankshaft is oriented with the slot up, such that gravity will hold it in position (rotate the crankshaft with the spark plug out to make that so). It is a hopeless cause to expect the key to hang in the slot if it is facing downward.
 
I haven't done this but what would happen if I turned crank with plug in? Would it mess up timing? Like to line up to where key is on top
If the sparkplug is in, the piston will build pressure in certain positions as you turn the crankshaft. It would be harder to turn and it may bounce back to an unwanted position when you let go. No spark plug means no compression and it makes a much easier job of it. Do you find it hard to remove the spark plug? If so, try it with the plug in and see if you are lucky.
 
Ok so I didn't fill up oil filter prolly sucked the oil up in filter . When I the rhino gas it dies. What's up with that. I do need to adjust idle and choke is sticky feeling hard to pull
The locking ring for the choke knob may need adjusting. At the base of the knob, right next to the dashboard is a ring. Grab it and rotate it one way to lock the choke knob and turn it the other way to release the choke knob. If that does not do the trick, you may need to lubricate the choke cable or buy a new one.
 
Ok last question all back together lubed choke up works great but I can fire it up put in reverse give it gas it dies. Every time!
OK, so you got enough oil into it to show on the dipstick now? Do not try to run it if no oil shows on the dipstick.

Are you letting it warm up long enough for it to idle well with the choke pushed all the way in?

Have you touched the carb or the various hoses associated with it and the air-box since it last ran properly? How long has it been since the engine last ran properly?
 
Oil is full I keep checking it. Last time I ran it was about a month I took to of carb off and needle out sprayed carb cleaner Inside let it set drained it out and fired it up. Idles good wth choke. Push choke in still runs good put it in gear forward or reverse tap he gas it dies I did notice one I puta new starter solenoid on the fuse beside the solenoid constantly ticks until I turn key off
You have to work on your grammar and punctuation. This is unintelligible to me:
"I puta new starter solenoid on the fuse" Hmm, How did you manage to put a relay onto a fuse?
Or is it: "the fuse beside the solenoid constantly ticks". Hmmm, I've never heard a fuse tick before.

You included a picture. The relay that you have your finger on is ticking? Refer to page 9-2 in your 450 service manual. As near as I can tell, that relay is item (14), headlight relay. I have no idea why it would be cycling with the ignition switch on. Try fiddling with the headlight switch on your dashboard? At any rate, I doubt that it has anything to do with your gas pedal problem.

Regarding the no go when you press on the throttle pedal: I suspect that you might have a blockage in the main jet. Or, there is an air passage from the intake bell to the atomizer (perforated tube) that resides above your main jet. That air passageway may be clogged. Carb cleaner into the holes in the intake bell and follow with compressed air to clear it out.

Did you have any extra parts when you put the carb back onto the machine?
 
No I didn't as far as my grammar lol I have fat thumbs texting on phone lol
Yeah, real keyboards are a whole lot better. It pays to read your post before hitting the send button though.

It would seem that your carb needs another cleaning. This time do a thorough job, including the internal passageways.

While you are at it, check the rubber diaphragm at the top for any small perforations or tears. Make sure that the perimeter of the diaphragm is properly seated into the groove as you put it back together.
 
Yea I sprayed it all down. Even got carb cleaner in my eye. Damn that hurts. It has to be something with the carb. That's all I can think of.
Yes you have to be careful with that stuff. Rinse your eyes out thoroughly with water if it is still bothering you.

It is a long shot but did you check the diaphragm as well? Also related to the diaphragm and the slide moving up and down is the vacuum sense hose. This is a rather big L shaped hose section that plugs onto a large hose barb close to the intake bell (pointed towards the airbox) and goes to an elbow fitting plugged into the rubber boot between carb bell and airbox. This is where the diaphragm gets it's reference pressure to determine the proper lift of the throttle slide.
 
Ok I search Internet everybody says it's suppose to be hot idk why tho
That is the Rectifier/Regulator for the charging system. The Regulator part of it limits the voltage such that the battery I not overcharged. It dissipates excess voltage as heat. Use a voltmeter and check the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running. It should measure under about 14 Volts with no electrical loads on (lights off, etc.).

Apparently you have the off idle problem fixed?
 
If all else fails I'm just glad I got it firing up lol. May end up loading it up on trailer take to my buddy atv shop leave it with him. Unless the good carb clean will solve it
Make sure that you push the carb cleaner, then solvent, then compressed air through all of the internal passageways. A spray on the outside surfaces, including the inside bore surfaces that you can see, is next to worthless as that is not where any obstructions will be.

Also, in your previous disassembles of the carb, did you mess with the needle? The needle position, along with the needle jet (at the tip of the perforated tube), is what controls the fuel flow at the beginning of the throttle on transition and then all the way to 3/4 throttle. Rearranging or leaving off the shim washers, where the needle is attached to the slide, will affect that entire region of slide travel.
 
I ordered the kms performance 450 slug kit didn't really say the weight. If it's too much weight would it cause it to die in gear bc of the weight on the clutch?
I suppose that it is possible, due to putting too heavy of a load on the engine at too low of an engine speed. Seems like you could see if it will rev up in neutral, where there will be very little load in spite of the wet clutch engaging.
 
Ok let rhino set all week while I was working. Came in today last weekend it wouldn't fire up. Now it fired up fine. When it's running I can hear the belt turning could that be too much weight in wet clutch ?I put the belt in the grooves of clutch when I put it back together. Try to put it in gear and it dies. Then I haveta shake the lever and rock rhino to get it out of gear. It won't take much time to just take the weights out. Also is there a certain way the belt goes on ? Could that have anything to do with it?
On the starting issue, check the battery voltage. A lot of repeated cranking to start can deplete the battery and a long sit can let the battery regain part of it's charge. The measured voltage across the battery terminals should measure 12.7 Volts. 12 Volts is a half discharged battery to give you a frame of reference.

If the idle speed is set too high you can experience this resistance and/or clunking when trying to get it into gear, even with a stock wet clutch (no added weighting). I imagine that it can get much more pronounced with the weighting. Try reducing the idle speed with the large round knob located in the throttle cable tower along the side of the carb. The 450 service manual specs the Engine idle speed at 1,450 ~ 1,550 RPM. If you reduce the RPM and all works fine then you are home free. If that RPM ends up being a stumble/stall problem at clutch engagement then you will likely have to reduce the added weight. The 450 wet clutch weighting is a relatively new thing and it may not be fully sorted out yet.
 
Ok idled down its good still a little stiff to shift. Changing subject. I have water in radiator fire up bleed air out screw bleeder screw down. Engine gets hot like hot to the touch. Radiator is still cool almost cold. I though head gasket was blown. I checked oil. It's clean. What's up is water pump shot? There's fluid in both hoses feeder hose and return hose
Lower the idle speed a little more...

Diagnosing an engine as "hot to the touch"??? Like your previous panic on the Rectifier/Regulator? The engine will be very near the temperature of Boiling Water (212 degrees F) when it is warmed up and working properly. Your touch is way overly sensitive and not accurate enough to gauge whether the engine is overheating.... Go open the hood of your warmed up family sedan and lay your hand on the engine block! Cook a pot of water to a bubbling boil and stick your hand in it, that is very near the temperature of an overheating engine. They actually get even hotter before being seriously overheated

Get a temperature gauge installed if you want the temperature. An infrared temperature gun is a way to get a somewhat accurate measure of your engine's cylinder and head, on the outside
 
Better yet, touch it with your tongue... :p ..........
LOL. And listen for the sizzle. Frying bacon sound means that it is quite hot. Also works for below freezing temperatures on lamp-posts. There, you listen for unintelligible speech sounds.

Actually that tongue trick works for checking the battery voltage. The more electricity the stronger the aluminum foil and silver fillings taste. Not to be used for voltages above 16 Volts, or else you will not be around to post the results..... :)
 
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