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Hey guys I'm new to the forum but I have an 08 Rhino, (all stock) I had to replace the electrical system so I figured I would share some pics and tips if needed! All 3 of the bolts that hold the stator were loose, 1 even rubbed against the stator, wearing it down, so I replaced.
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Hi. I've got a problem with timing varying.
Starts really well but if I rev up , the timing advances but doesn't reduce back down again when revs go back to tick over. Lovely spark and at start a really smooth engine. When timing changes it goes all noisy and rough.
Starting to suspect the rotor might be moving. So going to remove it and check the woodruff key. First time I'll do this so some daft questions. Is there oil in there? Did you drain down all oil to start with. How easy to pull the flywheel? Does the flywheel attach to the starter ring and how do you disconnect it? Was there just one pair of wires on the pick up coil or 3 wires or 4?
Are there any issues putting it back together.
Lastly how tight is the flywheel on the shaft.
Wondering if mine slips when I rev up which would advance the spark and then slips back under inertia when I switch off? Many thanks.
 

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Yes, its in an oil bath, drain all oil and coolant to remove cover, after you've removed oil lines. You'll be splitting half of the engine case, there are 3 bolts that go through the rotor to the starter gear that are a torx head, torqued back to 30 Nm or 22 ft lbs. There is also a big rotor nut that is secured on the crankshaft torqued to 60 Nm or 43 ft lbs. The coil that is secured to the inside of the cover I will bet you has come loose rubbing the inside of the rotor when you change engine speed. These are thumper engines with lots of vibration. Mine made a wierd rattling sound and sounded like metal rubbing when I shut the engine off, unfortunately I had to replace both rotor and coil which was burnt up and had a dead short. Before you tackle it unplug all the wires except the crank position sensor and ohm them out across each of the 3 wires and see if you have any resistance, it should be infinite. If not you have a short to ground in the coil and it will need replacing. How are your volts when idling? Should be 14.2, if not you have a bad coil. Just from experience I think your coil is bad, rotor may or not be ok. Remember coil stays stationary at all times and the rotor spins around it alternating current to keep the electrical system charged.
 

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Thanks for that. At the start you say "after removing oil lines". Do you mean oil lines? Which are these? Your description will be very helpful. Mines charging fine and giving a good spark with no rubbing sounds. All windings read correct. My problem is it idles fine with the timing mark around 10 deg btdc. Runs like this quite happily for ages. When I rev up the timing advances as it should but it doesn't reduce the advance when I reduce the revs back to idle.
So I'm suspecting the woodruff key is damaged. However if that is the fault, when I rotate the engine manually to tdc and inspect the mark in the peep hole to the flywheel I should find that its incorrect if its moved yes? If it is where it should be then the flywheel can't have moved on its shaft. Does that make sense? I also wondered if the cdi was at fault?
I was wondering how the cdi knows when to advance the spark as revs increase? I'm assuming the cdi detects the pick up coil pulses accelerating and is able to alter the trigger timing accordingly. Could the Cdi be advancing the trigger point but not reducing it again when revs are reduced to idle?
What would cause this? Is there some earthing that is required to reset the cdi?Perhaps some one on here knows how the cdi functions. Anyway thanks for your advice. Time to get hands dirty again. Just one last question though, the pick up coil runs on the outside of the flywheel doesn't it and there is a single magnet embedded in the flywheel. This can't move in anyway can it?
I know the internal ones can come loose and drop off but I think the pick up coil magnet is totally fixed.
 
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