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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 se 660 won't start. someone tryed stealing it and have wired a new switch(yamaha)and a new starter relay. Dash lights up but starter wont engage I have jumped relay starter works fine it runs. I can't find the diode that the service manual says to check I have checked the ignition fuse and the signal fuse all good new relay key switch what should i check now
 

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.......I can't find the diode that the service manual says to check ......
The Yellow/Blue stripe wire connected to the starter relay is the hot lead for the relay coil. It goes into a subharness that goes into the main harness, which ends up under the big lower crossbar that is in front of the dashboard. The rear of the battery box is bolted onto this crossbar. The main wiring harness wrap ends just about dead center in the machine and wires go every which way from there The idiot light panel [or] electronic display panel is directly behind and up from that spot.

Find the Yellow/Blue stripe wire coming out of the main wiring harness there and trace it to the diode module which is likely to be taped onto the end of the harness. It is plugged into a 3 pin connector, one of the other 2 wires (Blue/White stripe) goes to the CDI and is hot when in neutral. The other of the 2 wires (Blue/Yellow stripe) goes to the brake light switch. The diode module's function is to prevent crosstalk between brake and neutral circuits.

The other wire from the starter relay coil (Blue/Black stripe) goes to the starter key-switch which grounds it out to crank the engine.
 

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is there a way to test the relay?...if i turn the key to start i get nthing...and my main 30 amp fuze is good....if i jump across the relay with screw driver...it cranks and starts...i dnt want to buy a new relay if its this diod?
 

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Put a DC voltmeter between The Yellow/Blue wire and ground. With the ignition switch on, put the gear selector in neutral and/or push on the brakes such that the brake lights light up. You should see the voltage there jump up to 12.7 volts or so (with the engine not running). That will verify that you are getting power to the relay coil.

Check the resistance of the relay coil (Rhino ignition off or and/or relay coil unhooked, lest you burn up the meter), The coil resistance spec is not shown in the repair manual, but I would guess that it should be more than 50 Ohms and perhaps as high as 250 Ohms. If it reads open (very high resistance or OL on a digital meter) the coil is open. If the resitance is very low it is probably internally shorted.

A bit more involved is Yamaha's starter relay test. It is on page 9-18 in the early Rhino service manual. It involves disconnecting the relay. Putting an ohmmeter across the contacts (where the big red and black wires are bolted on) and then applying 12VDC to the coil. If the contacts close, you will see the meter drop to a short (0 Ohms).
 

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will a rhino only start in (N) mine will start in any gear
 

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pretty sure lights work...will dd check tmorow....starts in any gear and no foot on break
 

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pretty sure lights work...will dd check tmorow....starts in any gear and no foot on break
Do you mean start with the screwdriver across the relay contacts? It will start in any gear and no brakes in this case because you have bypassed the start ciruitry to crank the engine.
 

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i think both...but not 100% sure i know with screw driver....but i think it did beffore relay wnt bad
 

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i think both...but not 100% sure i know with screw driver....but i think it did beffore relay wnt bad
I don't see right off how this could be the cause of not being able to crank. But maybe someone with experience in this lack of interlocking will jump in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
starting problem

thank you Steve I think that would be the correct direction to try.when i test the diode and find its NG where can I get a new one?? What happened the other day was i lost the wiring diagram for the ignition switch and tried wiring by memory(beer induced)and blow the 30amp fuse in the starter relay.I replaced the relay with a new one but still not working I will be able to work on it on wednesday again thank you
 

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The logical place to pick up a diode module would be a Yamaha dealer. I imagine there is not of demand for these things; I suspect that they don't go bad very often. There are online Yamaha parts houses that you could check into. In fact, that is a good sort of place to check the parts diagrams to find the part number of that particular diode module. There is at least one vendor on this forum that will order parts and give you a discount off of list price.
 

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I have a 2006 rhino 660 and someone tried to steal it I had to get a new ignition switch and they cut my plug that the four wires connect to to plug into the back of the ignition swith where could I find that plug or which colors wires plug into which prongs on the back of the switch?
 

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I have a 2006 rhino 660 and someone tried to steal it I had to get a new ignition switch and they cut my plug that the four wires connect to to plug into the back of the ignition swith where could I find that plug or which colors wires plug into which prongs on the back of the switch?
Is the plug not still there on the back if the switch? I would have thought it would be easiest to just cut the wires, strip them and twist them together.... while leaving the connector behind on the switch. Ah well, so much for the criminal mentality, eh?.....

It is a pretty simple arrangement. This is a snip out of the service manual wiring diagram. It shows the 4 wires and where they go into the connector. I have annotated the wire colors in English to help with the abbreviations used in the diagram. The diagram is not clear as to which end of the connector you are looking at in the picture. If you use an ohmmeter (multimeter in ohms mode) You can probe the pins on the back of the switch to determine which side the wires belong on: Red to Brown/Blue connector pins will be shorted together when the ignition key is in the run position.



I suspect that Yamaha would only be selling you a replacement wire harness and not a connector alone (it would not hurt to ask, though). Perhaps someone on this site has salvaged the connectors out of a wire harness? Usually, you can figure out a way to cobble it together without a fancy connector, sometimes the right sized spade type crimp-on connectors can be made to work, for example.
 

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rhino 660 wont start

2007 rhino 660 won't start, battery, relay and fuses good,how can you tell if it's your starter or the starter clutch kit before taking it all apart? I hear the motor spinning
but no engagement to the clutch does the starter motor move in & out to engage?
need some help on this one
 

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2007 rhino 660 won't start, battery, relay and fuses good,how can you tell if it's your starter or the starter clutch kit before taking it all apart? I hear the motor spinning
but no engagement to the clutch does the starter motor move in & out to engage?
need some help on this one
The starter does not have a "bendix" so the shaft does not shift to engage the flywheel like a car. What it does have is a one-way sprag clutch which couples the starter motor to the flywheel when the starter is turning but allows the engine to over-run the starter clutch when it is spinning faster than the starter motor.

Most likely the starter clutch needs to be replaced, since you can hear your starter motor spinning freely.
 

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has anyone used these parts on Ebay offered by Ideal Engine Parts Co. Ltd
like a starter clutch gear set w/gasket? good or bad
 

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has anyone used these parts on Ebay offered by Ideal Engine Parts Co. Ltd
like a starter clutch gear set w/gasket? good or bad
Could you paste a link? I would be sort of surprised if you need the gears and a one-way to make the fix.
 
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