Yamaha Rhino Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATE AGAIN 13 January...still having issues!!

UPDATE.....BELOW!!!

...and to save the spindle bearings?

This was the second race we DNF'd due to the right front spindle nut.

The first race it fell off completely and I had no spares. I ordered spares and when I replaced them, I used red loc-tite and my impact.

Today, the brand new spindle bearings disenegrated to what I am guessing is the spindle nut being too tight.

So, what is every one doing to keep them tight and to keep the spindle bearnigs happy?

I am thinking drilling the cv shaft so it can be cotter pinned, but that creates issues with either using a castle nut or modifying the stock nut.

Suggestions???

DNF'ing races really sucks....

Rob
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
833 Posts
i cleaned the washer part of the nut and the flat spot it goes against and put lock tight on there and seems to work for me. if the spacer in the middle of the bearings isnt wore it shouldnt crush a bearing i wouldnt think...i tighten the **** out of mine with a 1/2 snap-on.you could try cylinder sleeve loctight too..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I acutally like that idea!! I have used that technique on other vehicles for certain things and it really works.

Torque? Or just what the FSM says?


Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
I drilled and pinned it. 1/8inch hole and cotter pin. 190 ft lbs.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,698 Posts
I safety wired mine. With the sleeve in there you can't over tighten them. If the sleeve is loose in there it may be worn or the bearings may not be seated properly.

I have seen a couple nuts come off seemingly due to bet hubs also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
985 Posts
I drilled and pinned it. 1/8inch hole and cotter pin. 190 ft lbs.

When I had my suspension done, they did this exact thing. Drilled and pinned. Absolutely no issues.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,795 Posts
x

I cut another relief on the stub axle end opposite of the factory relief so that you can flatten the flange on the nut twice on each stub axle,has been good to me since then, its kinda embarrasing having your wheel pass you down the hill, felt it bottom out then my wheel came rolling down along side me....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,996 Posts
Are you guiys having problems if you are Loc-titeing them and peening the hell out of them? Just curious, I've had one back off but caught it in time before it came off completely. Eversince I used Loctite and peened the whole opening I never had a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,490 Posts
Are you guiys having problems if you are Loc-titeing them and peening the hell out of them? Just curious, I've had one back off but caught it in time before it came off completely. Eversince I used Loctite and peened the whole opening I never had a problem.
X2!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Looked around for pics of spindles, but didnt come up with much during a quick search, going to look around a bit more......but here is what I think....


Ok.... I think the issue is because of the inner "spacer" part on the HCR's. I noticed that on both the Cognito and the stock ones, the inner spacer moves like a bearing...or is it a bearing?

For some reason, the hub was pushing the outer bearing deeper and deeper into the spindle....to the point where the rotor was rubbing on the spindle. Everytime I hit it with my impact, it was pushing the hub further and further in.

I think with the Cognito spindles, red lock-tight, and staking the nut, I should be good to go.

Anyone have anything to add about the "bearing spacer" on the HCR's??

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,308 Posts
I dont know what type of racing your doing but I know alot of racers change bearing after every race. Those bearings take a beating under race conditions. Also we have considered building a spindle with a taper bearing, but they would be very expensive. The bearings alone are about $35 each, plus it would require the end user to wire or cotter pin their axle shaft. Not to mention we would probably only sell a couple of pairs total:alcoholic:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I dont know what type of racing your doing but I know alot of racers change bearing after every race. Those bearings take a beating under race conditions. Also we have considered building a spindle with a taper bearing, but they would be very expensive. The bearings alone are about $35 each, plus it would require the end user to wire or cotter pin their axle shaft. Not to mention we would probably only sell a couple of pairs total:alcoholic:
Expensive is a moot point if I need to replace these POS after every race! If you come up with anything, I am interested. I have raced ultra4 cars since 2009, so not much on my rhino I would consider "expensive" compared to parts/tires for that!

BTW- I desert race, plus I will be doing KOH in February.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,488 Posts
One of mine came loose on the back side of olds on fri.. Pretty shitty drive back.


not to mention destroyed a outter stub, hub and inner stub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,308 Posts
I dont know what type of racing your doing but I know alot of racers change bearing after every race. Those bearings take a beating under race conditions. Also we have considered building a spindle with a taper bearing, but they would be very expensive. The bearings alone are about $35 each, plus it would require the end user to wire or cotter pin their axle shaft. Not to mention we would probably only sell a couple of pairs total:alcoholic:
Expensive is a moot point if I need to replace these POS after every race! If you come up with anything, I am interested. I have raced ultra4 cars since 2009, so not much on my rhino I would consider "expensive" compared to parts/tires for that!

BTW- I desert race, plus I will be doing KOH in February.

Rob
Rob its something we are looking at. The goal is to not have a whole seperate spinlde plate to make. If we can modify the current spidle plate we manufacture we will probably build a set.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
25 Posts
Let me see if I have this correct. You guys are peening them into the groove and they still are coming loose? Are you re-using the nuts or are you replacing them after you remove them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Let me see if I have this correct. You guys are peening them into the groove and they still are coming loose? Are you re-using the nuts or are you replacing them after you remove them?
Yes, new spindle nuts, brake clean the threads on the CV, red lock tite, stake the nut (or peen as you call it). Still come loose. Of course, I desert race mine, so I am probably drive it harder than a lot of people. Most of the problem is because I drive it hard in four wheel drive. Getting in and off the gas causes the cv to loosen the spindle nut on the driver side front. The rear still has the drive shaft brake, so no issues there. I would assume people with rear disc brakes at the wheel would have the same
issue.

My driver side front is now drilled and cotter pinned.


Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I raced the Tuscon Dirt Riot race, and although I won UTV and overall'd the Sportsman class, the race was only 28 miles and the front driver side wheel bearings are toast.

New bearings, Spindle installed with red lock-tight, Impact, then drilled and cotter pinned.....Wheel is loose again....and I am sure the bearings are trashed.

I know I am not the only one racing a Rhino and having these issues. Passenger side good to go (drilled/cotter pinned also).


WHY CANT I KEEP WHEEL BEARINGS IN THIS THING!! 28 miles is crap!!!


Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
...
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top