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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Battery Box:

Here's a second battery box I've adapted for my 06 660. It should work for 04-07 450s and 660s. Not sure about the newer ones or those with power steering. This is for using the original group size U1 battery. I put a 35ah AGM battery in there. I think you could alter the box some more and fit a group size 22nf. 22nf are readily available in 55ah capacities.

Here's what I did: After it occurred to me that a second factory box would fit between the bars with the correct angle, I went to eBay and bought the cheapest used oem batt box I could find. The one pictured below was 19.95 shipped. I cut the side piece off with my table saw. Interestingly there's already 2 holes factory drilled on the bar leading to the shocks, radiator etc, which match the two side mount holes in the box. I used 4 self tapping screws like for installing a tin roof to metal studs for the 4 mount holes in the box.

I plan to use my current box's lid as a pattern and cut a lid out for the second box (unless someone has a spare factory lid they'd like to part with?).

The battery isolator sitting on the original batt box in the pic is by blue sea systems. They're about $40.

Heater bypass valve:

I wanted to be able to at my option either send the full flow of hot coolant from the engine through the heater core before it got to the radiator or send the full flow to the radiator and bypass the heater core. Most of the options I could find were either run all of the flow through the core on the way to the radiator OR "T" into the hot line to get just some of the flow on its way to the rad (either with or without a simple shut off valve).

So, I finally located a valve that would work. It fits various Chevy trucks, etc. It's part number 74781 and was $10.99 at autozone. Two of the barbs on the valve are 3/4" and 2 are 5/8. The 3/4" barbs are the only ones in use when the heater is bypassed so you don't appreciably constrict your flow (you can get 3/4" heater hose on the rhino radiator hot side and the pipe below the brake master cyl - but it is a tight fit). The 2 5/8 fittings go to the heater core's 5/8 fittings. I took off the under hood hot side radiator hose and stored it in case I develop a leak on the trail. It is replaced by the hoses pictured.

This valve as purchsed is a vacuum activated but I attached a remote cable to it (like a choke or throttle cable). You can see it in the in-cab pic by where the hoses are routed.

Thanks to SteveS for suggesting the affordable blue sea battery isolator and the possibility of using a diverter or bypass valve.




 

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Nice setup, I like that. It looks like you ended up having a roomy enclosed spot to put auxiliary relays and the like, within the front facing compartment of the new battery box. Or perhaps for a strapped tool kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice setup, I like that. It looks like you ended up having a roomy enclosed spot to put auxiliary relays and the like, within the front facing compartment of the new battery box. Or perhaps for a strapped tool kit?
Thanks. The isolator will fit in the front of the battery in the enclosure, if that's a safe place for it (I've not opened it nor read the instructions to see it needs to be in the open for cooling purposes). I was also planning to put a fuse block in there for my accessories. Currently the only relay other than the factory ones is one I added for a pair of bumper mounted fog lights although I'll need to add one for the heater blower I imagine? (It's straight wired with a fuse right now as I've only recently installed it).

One reason I put the battery here instead of under the seat is because I'm planning to put a tool box of some sort there - likely a gasketed ammo box.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Steve, you might like this - in a keep your electrical load low sorta way.

The fan on the heater is 11 amps (I suppose on high, which produces gale force winds). On low, it pulls my battery tester down about as much a the headlights, plus it still blows pretty strong. Mostly, I would just like a light amount of air from the heater moving very hot air and not using too much elect.

So, I found and installed the below pictured 60mmx60mmx38mm fan. It is rated to move 57cfm and is only .88A 10.6W. I ran it several hours last weekend riding and it seemed to do good. With just two or three of the 4 vents open, it did best from a feel the heat move standpoint.

I used the same rubber ring to mount it that I used to make the trim rings at the base of the stacks where the front face vents are, which is actually a kitchen sink garbage disposal splash guard (fit the stock fan intake perfectly and stretched around the 60mm fan. Currently I have a little toggle switch on it and can run either it with the toggle or the stock fan with the stock fan switch.

Originally I just wanted to slow the stock fan down with a resistor but realized that the power use would stay the same - the resistor would just get hot. Another possibility I've considered is a pwm speed control - do you know if a pwm speed controller will reduce the electricity used by the motor as you turn it down? Im not sure exactly how they work - I think by turning the motor on/off really fast to change the speed - but Im not sure if this would significantly change the draw.



 

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Steve, you might like this - in a keep your electrical load low sorta way. ............
Originally I just wanted to slow the stock fan down with a resistor but realized that the power use would stay the same - the resistor would just get hot. Another possibility I've considered is a pwm speed control - do you know if a pwm speed controller will reduce the electricity used by the motor as you turn it down? Im not sure exactly how they work - I think by turning the motor on/off really fast to change the speed - but Im not sure if this would significantly change the draw. ........
Yes a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controller would indeed efficiently reduce the current draw. I'm not sure where you would find something like this off the shelf though. If you find something, let us know.

Looking good!
 

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Thanks Steve. Where I was looking at them was on eBay and amazon by searching pwm controller 12v. I looked at some that were 5, 10, 15a etc. The pic of the one I'm posting happens to be 10a but they're all similar - fairly cheap too
 

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Thanks Steve. Where I was looking at them was on eBay and amazon by searching pwm controller 12v. I looked at some that were 5, 10, 15a etc. The pic of the one I'm posting happens to be 10a but they're all similar - fairly cheap too
Yes, indeed. Surprisingly inexpensive. It would look like you need the 15 A or better version. You probably want to use something like that little fan that you show to keep it cool. That certainly looks like the ticket.
 
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