[4x4ffr]

I am hopefully going to be able to buy a used rhino this winter or next spring. My wallet will only let me get a used one. I plan on probably getting a 660 since I doubt I will be able to find a 700 in a decent price range.

What years should I look for or avoid??? I realize the newer the better but most products have sweet spots in model years. For example I have found a pretty decent deal on an 04 660 but am worried about that being to early a model year.

Guys, give me some guidance here.

Steve

 

[jedsled]

2004 has the better designed airbox than the other 660s

 

[kowboyway]

I love my 04 660, no electronic dash no problems. I just put a water temp guage and the fan on a switch and good to go.

 

[4x4ffr]

ok so the 04's dont have a speedometer or odometer??

Steve

 

[jedsled]

ok so the 04's dont have a speedometer or odometer??

Steve

Certain 2004 models did... I Have a 2004 camp that has the speedo cluster.

 

[kowboyway]

They have the wires to hook up a dash if u want, just gotta make sure u get the correct one

 

[RuttingRhino]

All 660 rhinos have the exact same air box...the difference on 05-07 is the added air scoop on the engine cover and the highly restrictive snorkel from the air box to the scoop...

I always recommend that people ditch the snorkel and seal the hole in the air scoop to block off noise...and re-jet the carb... with our jet kit of course...

More air, more power, less noise... only down side is you have to clean the filter more often...

As for the digi-dash...Yamaha's name for the factory digital speedo...that was optional add-on prior to 07...

07 is the only year that came with them standard...it also has a fuel level gauge which no other year has...

The 07 has a few nice features but 07 was the year the sport model came out...

A used rhino with a good set of aftermarket shocks or an 07 sport model is definitely a major advantage...

The are minor stuff to like/not like with all the years but IMO the 06 was different in a lot of ways...making that year my last choice but I would still buy one if it was a good one and the price was right...

I love the 660s and the 07 sport models the most of the 660s...

The great thing about used rhinos now is there is always one with all the stuff you like on it for cheap to be had somewhere...

 

[CamShaw]

04s

the stub outer axles on the 04s had a smaller nut on them,the rear inner cvs were hollow with a softplug in them too,no digitals dash,but u can put 1 on them,no intake scoop,but they had a 1.5" tube diagonal frame gusset under the foot well area which makes for a beefer frame....they're all good in my opinion,pick it up cheap and throw some parts on it,clutch kit,pipe,carb,aircleaner,cdi and u almost double its output hp for cheap...my two cents....later,cameron..

rhino 660s are like the 1965 Chevy chevelle,easy user friendly to work on,simple,no fi,tons of room to service etc....compared to the teryx or can'd ham"can-am"...........

 

[RuttingRhino]

x2...

We have most of the stuff he suggested you get...

 

[Redstroke]

What about the 4 wheel disc brakes? When did that change 08? Is there a conversion kit for that?

 

[RuttingRhino]

that is a nice feature of the 700 and yes it started in 08...07 was the last year of production for the 660...

If that is important to you get a 700 it's not worth the effort to convert imo...not even close to worth it...

And if you are an efi guy then it's a 700 for you for sure...

I have no use for brakes... and I am not a fan of the efi...most due to the cost to optimize...carbs are cheap and easy...

 

[RuttingRhino]

Something you should know ahead of time before you even get a rhino is that it is not like the other brands is several key ways...

It's not a car or golf cart and can't be driven like one...it is a bona-fide atv...which means it has a spooled rear end...no rear differential...some people hate that...

It also has a wet clutch instead of dry clutch...some people hate that too...

I love rhinos because the have both...

they did name it well imo....

 

[150 Fuelie]

Why does Yamaha use a wet clutch??

 

[Redstroke]

Why does Yamaha use a wet clutch??

By using a centrifugal wet clutch to engage from a stop it takes alot of stress of the belt cvt system. The belt really doesnt ever completely disengage from the clutches preventing belt wear and belt noise on take off. This is not like a snowmobile anymore.. pretty good idea..

 

[RuttingRhino]

I agree with on that but there is more to it...

With a typical dry clutch set up the sheaves will let go of the belt on down hills and then you are free-wheeling...no more engine braking...

Rhino engine brakes the whole time...will not free-wheel on you...

You are on a very steep grade going 5mph and tapping the brakes with good engine braking then all of sudden you are rocketing down the hill...engine braking doesn't come back until you hit the throttle...but now you have speed up...if terrain is rough you might have already botched it...

It is just a lot better for anything technical and takes off smoothly with very light throttle...

It doesn't corner the same with spooled rear end you have to learn how to throttle corners...it's meant to slide...

Of course that means you can't take it on turf w/o tearing it up...some people hate that...I say if you want a lawn mower get one... :lol:

They also climb better in 2wd than some do in 4wd that because it really is 2wd... !

Rhinos don't make good house pets... :13:

 

[4x4ffr]

My Arctic Cat 4 wheelers are set up with a wet clutch and I love it. The engine brake with this set up is awsome.

STeve

 

[RuttingRhino]

There are lot of very good deals on rhinos on this forum right now... both 660s and 700s...with stock motors and built motors...with stock suspension and long travel too...