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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok we FINALLY got enough snow to take the Rhino out on tracks but Im curious of what others who run tracks think of how my Rhino performed.

First off background, its a 2004 660 with a JBS sheave, orange spring and the weights are the greasless that James sends with his sheave. Also has a Dynatek CDI. In the summer I run 27" mudzillas and it goes great, lots of torque and pickup, Ive had it going 35 but let off as I don't have a lot of long open flat terrain.

So on snow my tracks are Triaxions and in low range I could only go about 8 miles an hour and in high it would only go about 13 miles an hour, the difference could possible been that I ran it on high on the return trip and was riding in the tracks I made so the snow was packed down already. The engine revs up as I accelerate but then stops reving up and I know it isn't reving to the highest it could and sounds like its bogging down. I think the clutching is over gearing the engine and it cannot handle it.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

~ Phil
 

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You will never see speeds on tracks like you do on tires, Sorry. Snow conditions will effect speed, far as clutching goes, every track kit is different, they all have different gear reduction ratios. So what clutching will work best for your tracks is something you may want to play with. My Jbs works great with 16 gram ods, i had a gold spring in my secondary but didnt like how it wasnt as snappy as before the gold, so i removed it. My top speed in high or low with tracks is approx 29 on the speedo, which means that true speed is probably only about 17-22 mph. Give James a call and see what he thinks about the engine not revving as high as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
something aint right...jetting or something...call me
Hi James thanks Ill try to give you a call later today, the only other change from stock is I changed the pilot jet to a 45 and changed the fuel line to include a primer bulb inline.

THanks

~ Phil
 

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to go higher speeds on snow you have to put the rhino in the garage and start the snowmobile, they go alot faster on snow..........
 

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to go higher speeds on snow you have to put the rhino in the garage and start the snowmobile, they go alot faster on snow..........
true, but you cant carry as much beer!:alcoholic:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
to go higher speeds on snow you have to put the rhino in the garage and start the snowmobile, they go alot faster on snow..........
true, but you cant carry as much beer!:alcoholic:
Yeah goal is to groom the trails with the Rhino, drink beer and have fun doing it. Grooming trails on a sled is cold and boring...
 

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to go higher speeds on snow you have to put the rhino in the garage and start the snowmobile, they go alot faster on snow..........
true, but you cant carry as much beer!:alcoholic:
Yeah goal is to groom the trails with the Rhino, drink beer and have fun doing it. Grooming trails on a sled is cold and boring...
James will get you fixed up! The rhino is a blast with tracks, you just cant go as fast.
 

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Ok we FINALLY got enough snow to take the Rhino out on tracks but Im curious of what others who run tracks think of how my Rhino performed.

First off background, its a 2004 660 with a JBS sheave, orange spring and the weights are the greasless that James sends with his sheave. Also has a Dynatek CDI. In the summer I run 27" mudzillas and it goes great, lots of torque and pickup, Ive had it going 35 but let off as I don't have a lot of long open flat terrain.

So on snow my tracks are Triaxions and in low range I could only go about 8 miles an hour and in high it would only go about 13 miles an hour, the difference could possible been that I ran it on high on the return trip and was riding in the tracks I made so the snow was packed down already. The engine revs up as I accelerate but then stops reving up and I know it isn't reving to the highest it could and sounds like its bogging down. I think the clutching is over gearing the engine and it cannot handle it.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

~ Phil
The fuel line kit and pilot jet could you got from me could not cause this problem...you installed your own bulb primer right...??? Not sure how you plumbed the bulb primer but the bottom line is if the fuel lines are full at the time you are having a problem then the bulb or fuel delivery is not the problem...since the fuel lines are transparent you should be able to look at it and see if fuel delivery is a problem or not...

If your 150 main jet was golden in the summer time...the 155 would be the one to use now...if it was rich in the summer it should be golden now...

Inspect your plug just to be sure you don't have a metering problem associated with taking the carb out/apart to replace the pilot jet...

Next is the speeds you report... the 2004 did not come with a speedo...did you install one...if so what kind...factory digi-dash...??? The only accurate way to measure speed in a rhino with tracks is to use a gps...or pace it with a vehicle with accurate speedo...

Next is the CDI...the Dynatek has a 9,000 rpm rev limiter...with tires and a normal functioning wet clutch/cvt you cannot touch the rev limiter in high...however, you can hit the rev limiter in low...

The hp/lb ratio, torque curve, and overall gearing determine how many rpms the motor can turn when not controlled by the rev/speed limiter...when you add tracks you change everything but the torque curve...

So consider the fact that if you had tires that were so big and so heavy that the motor can barely roll them...the result would be that you would not be able to hit the rev limiter in low or high...and your top speeds would be closer together than they were before...this is the "over gearing" you are saying you think you feel...

The opposite extreme would be extremely short wheels...like mini-bike wheels...the result would be now in high it's like being in low...you would be able to hit the rev limiter in both ranges...and you would see the most difference (percentage wise) that you can see between high and low because you are now comparing speeds between ranges at full shift out and the same max rpms...

Secondary spring...you might find you like the factory secondary spring better with tracks as did Matt on his 700... However, it would not make a day an night difference as to your top speed...it would make some difference...typically the stiffer secondary spring yields higher top speeds at the same max rpms...

Same thing will hold true for your weight selection...you might find that you prefer a different weight with tracks...however, it would not result in a day and night difference in speed...

This is a situation where a tach would be very useful in sorting it all out...

Also you have to make sure that your primary sheave is shifting all the way out when revved high enough in neutral....Since you have the OD weights you should see the belt go all the way to the very top of the primary sheave...if it does not...that is the source of your lack of speed...this is what I would do FIRST...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Craig thanks for trying to help, see my answers inline to your QUestions:

Ok we FINALLY got enough snow to take the Rhino out on tracks but Im curious of what others who run tracks think of how my Rhino performed.

First off background, its a 2004 660 with a JBS sheave, orange spring and the weights are the greasless that James sends with his sheave. Also has a Dynatek CDI. In the summer I run 27" mudzillas and it goes great, lots of torque and pickup, Ive had it going 35 but let off as I don't have a lot of long open flat terrain.

So on snow my tracks are Triaxions and in low range I could only go about 8 miles an hour and in high it would only go about 13 miles an hour, the difference could possible been that I ran it on high on the return trip and was riding in the tracks I made so the snow was packed down already. The engine revs up as I accelerate but then stops reving up and I know it isn't reving to the highest it could and sounds like its bogging down. I think the clutching is over gearing the engine and it cannot handle it.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

~ Phil
The fuel line kit and pilot jet could you got from me could not cause this problem...you installed your own bulb primer right...??? Not sure how you plumbed the bulb primer but the bottom line is if the fuel lines are full at the time you are having a problem then the bulb or fuel delivery is not the problem...since the fuel lines are transparent you should be able to look at it and see if fuel delivery is a problem or not...

- I dont think the fuel line or bulb is the issue, it revs fine in neutral, doesnt hiccup or stall.

If your 150 main jet was golden in the summer time...the 155 would be the one to use now...if it was rich in the summer it should be golden now...

- Im not sure what main is in it, I should have looked at what it said but Im assuming its stock.

Inspect your plug just to be sure you don't have a metering problem associated with taking the carb out/apart to replace the pilot jet...

Next is the speeds you report... the 2004 did not come with a speedo...did you install one...if so what kind...factory digi-dash...??? The only accurate way to measure speed in a rhino with tracks is to use a gps...or pace it with a vehicle with accurate speedo...

- Bought it with a stock digital gauge in it. THe tracks I have are Traxions are high speed tracks, the amount that the speed reads off from reading about them is minimal. Basically rides on a giant plastic wheel on the ground unlike TAU tracks that are geared down.

Next is the CDI...the Dynatek has a 9,000 rpm rev limiter...with tires and a normal functioning wet clutch/cvt you cannot touch the rev limiter in high...however, you can hit the rev limiter in low...

- Engine revs high with the wheels, I cannot get it to rev as high with tracks on in either low or high.

The hp/lb ratio, torque curve, and overall gearing determine how many rpms the motor can turn when not controlled by the rev/speed limiter...when you add tracks you change everything but the torque curve...

So consider the fact that if you had tires that were so big and so heavy that the motor can barely roll them...the result would be that you would not be able to hit the rev limiter in low or high...and your top speeds would be closer together than they were before...this is the "over gearing" you are saying you think you feel...

- Since adding the JBS sheave its been running fine on the tires. I am not a high speed rider so I dont know what its top end is but it has great pickup even in high with wheels. ALso tows a trailer with a load of wood fine.

The opposite extreme would be extremely short wheels...like mini-bike wheels...the result would be now in high it's like being in low...you would be able to hit the rev limiter in both ranges...and you would see the most difference (percentage wise) that you can see between high and low because you are now comparing speeds between ranges at full shift out and the same max rpms...

Secondary spring...you might find you like the factory secondary spring better with tracks as did Matt on his 700... However, it would not make a day an night difference as to your top speed...it would make some difference...typically the stiffer secondary spring yields higher top speeds at the same max rpms...

Same thing will hold true for your weight selection...you might find that you prefer a different weight with tracks...however, it would not result in a day and night difference in speed...

- I forget what I got for weighs,

This is a situation where a tach would be very useful in sorting it all out...

Also you have to make sure that your primary sheave is shifting all the way out when revved high enough in neutral....Since you have the OD weights you should see the belt go all the way to the very top of the primary sheave...if it does not...that is the source of your lack of speed...this is what I would do FIRST...!

- I checked to verify the belt goes to the very top of the primary sheave when I put the JBS sheave on and it did, If you think I should recheck I can.
Thanks
~ Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK I have better news to report today. I took the Rhino out again and it performed much better, the snow has settled and is denser so not sure if thats the difference but in high on un ridden snow in the field I hit 28 which is great.

It did act up a bit, after about 5 min into the ride it just died as if I turned the key off, looked around a bit then tried firing it up and it started right up.

Also at one point going up a very slight grade it would only go about 12mph where as the first time up it I was going 18 so it appears to be intermittent.

I dont really have a need to go that fast as I want to use it to tow a grooming drag but want to make sure it will have the power to pull it.

~ Phil
 
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