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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all from Belize! Recently bought an 06 Rhino 660. It’s been sitting outside for the last two years and has an appropriate amount of rust and general weathering. Not too concerned about that as the frame looks good and the plastics can be renewed... currently trying to figure out how deep I need to go into the engine.
Today I gave everything a wash so I have something more or less clean to work with, spun the flywheel to make sure it had at least some compression, changed the oil and spark plug, and tried to jump start with my truck. It only would turn over once at a time, then the starter would have to work really hard (flywheel still moving, but barely) to turn the engine again. I noticed a whiff of smoke from the wire to the starter, and after about 10 cranks like that, not all at one time but intermittently, now the starter won’t even push at all. I can still move the flywheel by hand, but wondering if the starter is toast. Possibly too many cranking amps from the truck battery? Is that a thing?
So two questions.
1. Is it supposed to be that hard to turn the flywheel? A note, when I first tried turning the flywheel by hand, it moved fairly easily until a certain spot (TDC?), took almost everything I had to move it past that, then was fairly easy to move again.
2. Is there a way to test if the starter is still any good?
Also, I would add, Yamaha or compatible parts are a little difficult to find around here, although yes, I knew this when I bought the Rhino. I have two decent options for basics (filters, belts, etc) but most parts I buy will be coming from the US, and about a month shipping time.



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If nothing else it sounds like you have compression (why it turns over hard until after TDC - normal). First thing I'd look at (electrically) is the ground connection from the battery to the frame and then from the frame to the engine - ensure that's decent before continuing your diagnosis. Let us know how that looks then we'll go forward from there.

I would have sworn the picture above was from Florida - now I have a new concept of Belize!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If nothing else it sounds like you have compression (why it turns over hard until after TDC - normal). First thing I'd look at (electrically) is the ground connection from the battery to the frame and then from the frame to the engine - ensure that's decent before continuing your diagnosis. Let us know how that looks then we'll go forward from there.

I would have sworn the picture above was from Florida - now I have a new concept of Belize!
Ok, I had a chance to check some connections this evening. To my limited knowledge, everything is connecting the way it should. The terminal on the wire to the starter was burnt? through, so that may be part of the current problem. The nuts holding this terminal in place were a bit loose but still snug. Also the little stud or whatever going into the starter is a little wobbly but my tester still lights up between the cable and the stud when key is in start position.
You mention checking ground from battery to frame and then ground from frame to engine. All I can find so far is one ground cable from battery to engine.
I didn’t have much time this evening but thought I’d put this on here once. I’ll replace the terminal to the starter, tighten the loose connections, and update with good news hopefully.



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The OEM grounding system is weak on rhinos so suggested to create one ground wire from the battery to the frame (bare metal) and another from the motor to the frame (bare metal)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Replaced a terminal on the starter motor and on the starting relay, took spark plug out and cranked to get some oil moving (and to be sure I had spark), put spark plug back in and shot some ether in the intake (no carb or air cleaner on) and it turned over a few times. So that’s progress. I’ll have to look into adding grounds, thanks for that.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So back at it here. We were gone for a few weeks, and I was waiting for some parts to get here, but back to the Rhino.

Can someone help me out on how to hook up this starting relay? I added the ground cable according to SteveS instructions (at least my understanding thereof).
-I have a #4 black from battery negative to bare frame, and a #4 black from engine ground bolt to same bare frame spot.
-I have a #4 red from battery positive to fused side of starter relay.
-I have a #4 black from other side of starter relay to starter.
-the yellow/blue wire I have hooked up to starter relay with spade terminal was doing nothing on old starter relay, but according to wiring diagram should be on same fused side of starter relay.
-the blue/black wire comes from “start” position on ignition switch.
-I have a #14 red (original as far as I can tell) going from battery positive to ignition switch.

Relay clicks when I turn key to on position but does nothing else when I turn to start. Although I did blow the 30 amp fuse that came with the relay while trying to figure out how to hook up the small wires. Engine cranks fine if I cross the big terminals on the relay with a screwdriver




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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks! Actually I called the place I bought it from here finally (should’ve started with that) and they sent me this. Looks like some things are just different enough from yours to make things interesting! I hooked it up they way they have pictured and finally got it going after figuring out my ignition switch doesn’t send current out the starter wire terminal. Also I didn’t know there was a ground in the starter relay, so that helped.
Got it cranking, now just need to get it to start/run
consistently and we’re off to the races. Or on to fixing the brakes, rather




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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So last post I said my main switch doesn’t send current out the starter wire terminal. Today I was poking around some more, and trying to get this thing running. From my very hillbilly testing (holding spark plug against bare frame or engine block and cranking), it seems that I don’t have spark even though the starter was cranking. I changed the spark plug, still nothing. Started looking at the coil next, and discovered (partly by accident) the switch will crank the starter only if the ignition coil is unplugged. What could be causing this? I tested the coil and the second test on the page, the coil showed a resistance of 1.0 ohm, if I remember right. Outside of the .18-.28 range anyway. The spark plug cap and the other test were within spec. I found where I can get a new coil that should work, and I’m planning to pick that up in the next few days. My question is, will that fix the problem?


The black wire going to the grey ignition coil plug is hot with key on, the orange wire is hot intermittently while cranking (spark timing?). Does that sound right?

I’m “this” close to saying this is outside of my league, but I feel like I’m pretty close to having it going. That and the closest trustworthy shop is 30 min away.



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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The black wire going to the grey ignition coil plug is hot with key on, the orange wire is hot intermittently while cranking (spark timing?). Does that sound right?


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So apparently this black wire is supposed to be a ground wire. Does THAT sound right? It cranks now if I ground the cut wire from the plug, but my battery is too dead to try very hard to start it. Next steps (some other day) are to run a new wire from this plug to ground, check for spark again, and we’ll see what’s up after that.
At least I’m finding all the ways that don’t fix it so far. Or something like that that Edison said.



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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Snipped the hot black wire that should not be hot, made a new ground to engine for the plug, shot in some starting fluid, and she fired right up and purred like a rhinoceros. Temp light stayed on which is a concern, but not a huge one yet as I also found out the throttle cable sticks and there are absolutely 0 brakes not a good combo so won’t be riding much yet til I get those ironed out. But I’m ready to jump in with both feet knowing the thing actually runs well for sure!



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