If your like me and don't have a lot of money to spend... here is my solution to a fuel gauge on a rhino 660. I bought an adjustable fuel sending unit off eBay and the appropriate gauge to go with it. I have a ton of wire so i didn't include that in the receipts.
The most time consuming part of the install was cutting the sending unit to the right length. I drilled the 1.5" hole in the plastic tank first with a hole saw half way through. then finished it with a razor blade.
After the hole is there, I measured the exact depth of the tank which was just under 12" deep. From there I drew up a square on my work bench and laid the sending unit down on the bench. Using the square to represent my tank and cut the sending unit to roughly 8" long. then I put the float arm on the sender and moved it up all the way to "full" and then down all the way to "empty". The key is to make sure the float does not hit the top or bottom of the tank or in other words the float cant leave the square you drew up on the bench.
Once your satisfied with the sending unit you can put it in the tank. It was at this point that I realized not matter what I did there would be plastic shavings in the tank from the self taping screws. Its important to know that the sender body needs to be grounded to the chassis. They are made to be put into metal tanks not plastic.
With the tank finished up all you have to do is find a place to mount the gauge and run wires. I use a 2" hole saw for 2 1/16" gauges do to the fact that hole saw cut slightly oversize.
For power I spliced into the 12v power outlet and for the gauge light I spliced off the headlight switch. The sender itself has only one wire you have to run up to the gauge. After I installed this particular gauge I noticed a couple things I didn't expect... where the fuel gauge says "FUEL" lights up when the gauge reads below 1/8th full and second it doesn't move fast which will eliminate a lot of fluctuation while riding.
The most time consuming part of the install was cutting the sending unit to the right length. I drilled the 1.5" hole in the plastic tank first with a hole saw half way through. then finished it with a razor blade.
After the hole is there, I measured the exact depth of the tank which was just under 12" deep. From there I drew up a square on my work bench and laid the sending unit down on the bench. Using the square to represent my tank and cut the sending unit to roughly 8" long. then I put the float arm on the sender and moved it up all the way to "full" and then down all the way to "empty". The key is to make sure the float does not hit the top or bottom of the tank or in other words the float cant leave the square you drew up on the bench.
Once your satisfied with the sending unit you can put it in the tank. It was at this point that I realized not matter what I did there would be plastic shavings in the tank from the self taping screws. Its important to know that the sender body needs to be grounded to the chassis. They are made to be put into metal tanks not plastic.
With the tank finished up all you have to do is find a place to mount the gauge and run wires. I use a 2" hole saw for 2 1/16" gauges do to the fact that hole saw cut slightly oversize.
For power I spliced into the 12v power outlet and for the gauge light I spliced off the headlight switch. The sender itself has only one wire you have to run up to the gauge. After I installed this particular gauge I noticed a couple things I didn't expect... where the fuel gauge says "FUEL" lights up when the gauge reads below 1/8th full and second it doesn't move fast which will eliminate a lot of fluctuation while riding.