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Rhino 660 fuel gauge and sender install

27K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  HairyScandinavian 
#1 ·
If your like me and don't have a lot of money to spend... here is my solution to a fuel gauge on a rhino 660. I bought an adjustable fuel sending unit off eBay and the appropriate gauge to go with it. I have a ton of wire so i didn't include that in the receipts.

The most time consuming part of the install was cutting the sending unit to the right length. I drilled the 1.5" hole in the plastic tank first with a hole saw half way through. then finished it with a razor blade.



After the hole is there, I measured the exact depth of the tank which was just under 12" deep. From there I drew up a square on my work bench and laid the sending unit down on the bench. Using the square to represent my tank and cut the sending unit to roughly 8" long. then I put the float arm on the sender and moved it up all the way to "full" and then down all the way to "empty". The key is to make sure the float does not hit the top or bottom of the tank or in other words the float cant leave the square you drew up on the bench.



Once your satisfied with the sending unit you can put it in the tank. It was at this point that I realized not matter what I did there would be plastic shavings in the tank from the self taping screws. Its important to know that the sender body needs to be grounded to the chassis. They are made to be put into metal tanks not plastic.



With the tank finished up all you have to do is find a place to mount the gauge and run wires. I use a 2" hole saw for 2 1/16" gauges do to the fact that hole saw cut slightly oversize.




For power I spliced into the 12v power outlet and for the gauge light I spliced off the headlight switch. The sender itself has only one wire you have to run up to the gauge. After I installed this particular gauge I noticed a couple things I didn't expect... where the fuel gauge says "FUEL" lights up when the gauge reads below 1/8th full and second it doesn't move fast which will eliminate a lot of fluctuation while riding.
 
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#2 ·
Here is the prices and parts I used off Ebay.
Total investment of $46 and roughly 1.5 hrs.

Feel free to criticize/comment



 
#11 ·
Here is the prices and parts I used off Ebay.
Total investment of $46 and roughly 1.5 hrs.

Feel free to criticize/comment



I bought the gauge off ebay with the sender. The gauge has to match the same OHM resistance as the sender which in my case was 240-33 ohm.
 
#5 ·
I appreciate it. I think I'll add this when I get to adding a water temp gauge (and maybe a tach). So I'm going to have to look for matching gauges. I've got a couple of small projects to finish first (heater - essentially done, 2nd battery and overhead radio console).
 
#8 ·
I'm not a fan of the float style sending units either. I'm taking a chance with this one. I will say though that I just spent 3 days in Ocotillo Wells, CA (Fri-Sun) and the gauge and sender both worked flawlessly. I love how this particular gauge doesn't have "needle bounce" when going over bumps to. I'm thinking if I have a problem with this sender down the road I can just replace it with the same one for $18 or get the tube style as an upgrade. Either way I'm more than happy with it!!
 
#13 ·
If you have that sender, check the resistance with a ohm meter. It should be a standard ohm range. To check it you will have to empty and fill the tank fully.
 
#15 ·
There are a few different standards. 0-90 ohm is GM standard. The only way to know what you're sender reads is to put a ohm meter on it and cycle the sender from empty to full.
 
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