[nightrider05]

Cases are split and everything is down to bare minimum. Crankshaft seems to be pressed in.

Couple questions now.

Does the crank have to be pressed out?

There is also a gear that had the springs inside of it..im assuming counterbalance drive gear? I removed the outer teeth section of it along with the springs...Now can it be pressed out with the remaining piece still on the crank or does that piece need to be pulled off as well?

I have read that the bearing comes off the crank rather easily so I wasn't sure if the bearing would press out with the crank...if not then I don't see how the remaining piece of the counterbalance piece would slide through crank bearing.

Thanks for the help. Really trying to get this crank sent off so I can get my engine back together asap.

 

[AlbaNate]

Going to have to either press the other side or use a crank puller tool.

Nate
Alba Racing

 

[onebuilder]

Cases are split and everything is down to bare minimum. Crankshaft seems to be pressed in.

Couple questions now.

Does the crank have to be pressed out?

There is also a gear that had the springs inside of it..im assuming counterbalance drive gear? I removed the outer teeth section of it along with the springs...Now can it be pressed out with the remaining piece still on the crank or does that piece need to be pulled off as well?

I have read that the bearing comes off the crank rather easily so I wasn't sure if the bearing would press out with the crank...if not then I don't see how the remaining piece of the counterbalance piece would slide through crank bearing.

Thanks for the help. Really trying to get this crank sent off so I can get my engine back together asap.

Yes, the crank needs to pressed out of the case, it will also need to be pulled back into the case upon reassembly. Yamaha has a special tool for it. I made one.
Yes, the crank can be removed with the drive gear on. It is pressed on and needs to be timed. I had my gear and crank keyed at Crankworks. Benchmark tack welds them into place. The gear may slip or spin on the crank. Leave it on, let your shop deal with it.

 

[AlbaNate]

We tack weld them as well, and highly recommend replacing the OEM rod with a Carillo. While you are in there I would do a h/d diff plate as well.

Nate

 

[onebuilder]

I agree Nate. I did the Carillo Rod, DLC wrist pin, new bearings, weld the crank, balance and key the crank/gear. As well as the billet drive support. Money well spent!

 

[willykiller]

There are two threaded bolt holes in the case that you can use to push the crank bearing out of the case half, and on reassembly I heat the case to about 275 F and drop the crank back in.............

 

[nightrider05]

Cases are split and everything is down to bare minimum. Crankshaft seems to be pressed in.

Couple questions now.

Does the crank have to be pressed out?

There is also a gear that had the springs inside of it..im assuming counterbalance drive gear? I removed the outer teeth section of it along with the springs...Now can it be pressed out with the remaining piece still on the crank or does that piece need to be pulled off as well?

I have read that the bearing comes off the crank rather easily so I wasn't sure if the bearing would press out with the crank...if not then I don't see how the remaining piece of the counterbalance piece would slide through crank bearing.

Thanks for the help. Really trying to get this crank sent off so I can get my engine back together asap.

Yes, the crank needs to pressed out of the case, it will also need to be pulled back into the case upon reassembly. Yamaha has a special tool for it. I made one.
Yes, the crank can be removed with the drive gear on. It is pressed on and needs to be timed. I had my gear and crank keyed at Crankworks. Benchmark tack welds them into place. The gear may slip or spin on the crank. Leave it on, let your shop deal with it.

I believe I may have seen a picture of either your home made tool or someone elses..I may have to make something like that. I would prefer mine to be keyed over welding...already talked to CW about that as well.

I agree Nate. I did the Carillo Rod, DLC wrist pin, new bearings, weld the crank, balance and key the crank/gear. As well as the billet drive support. Money well spent!

I am going with the CW Pro Rod kit...not sure how that compares to Carillo, but I believe it will be perfect for my application. With this not being a race motor, or even a highly modded I don't see the need to spend the extra money.

I placed the order with Benchmark earlier on the 686 kit with CP piston, DLC wrist pin(over kill considering the CW rod kit has brass bushing on pin end..on well) and also got the billet drive gear support!

There are two threaded bolt holes in the case that you can use to push the crank bearing out of the case half, and on reassembly I heat the case to about 275 F and drop the crank back in.............

Interesting. Thanks for that information. I will take a look at that and use some judgement...that is the first time I have read that information regarding using those bolt holes to push the bearing/rod out of the cases.

When you say you heated the cases and dropped the bearing back in...Did you still have the transmission stuff all intact? Did you use a torch?

I have used a similar method when it came to installing wheel bearings on my motorcycle but I did the opposite and put the bearings in the freezer for a while. Heat wasn't an option on freshly powdercoated wheels.


Thanks for all of the information guys!

 

[CamShaw]

x

stick the whole case on your barb b q.........works great for heating big parts...

 

[onebuilder]

The Yamaha puller(and mine) uses the 2 holes. I tool 4 bolts and cut and welded them to make 2 long bolts.

Page 4-75 in the '06 manual shows the puller.

If you dont have a manual, let me know. I can give you a link to download one for free.