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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I have a question. My setup is the power pack from HunterWorks which consist of MSD Ignition mapped by Todd, 102mm CP 11-1 HC piston, stage 1 raptor hot cam, muzzy dual exhaust, racers edge head stud kit, TCP radiator shroud and fan, EVANS coolant, gold secondary spring, and I have Adams from Airdam stage IV clutch mod with Greaseless 16 gram roller weights and greaseless sliders, and a unisteer kit not that that matters. Lol so I have the power bug now! I am thinking about getting Chris from benchmark to port and polish my head and put +1 valves with kibble white springs and bore my TB. How much power can I ex spect to gain with these mods? Now my riding is 90% trails So I stay in low range a lot so I don't really care about running 65MPH I want low and mid power. Is it worth the money for me to do it? Sorry for the long post! Lol
 

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I can tell you what we build with a similar setup. With our portwork, Web Cam, Modified Rockers, spring kit and bored throttle body we are seeing around 57 at the wheels. With a smaller profile cam your peak HP will be down but the frontside will be stronger. Unless you plan on going to a different profile camshaft than you already have I would save the money on the +1 valves. I would definetely change that Hunterworks map out though. Let me know if I can be of any other help.

Nate
Alba Racing
 

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I wouldnt use benchmark for headwork on a 700. And for power where you want it i would suggest a 10:1 105.5 big bore kit, keep your cam, probably leave the head stock. You should never trust someone elses map, buy a wideband kit and make sure you are running at the proper air fuel ratio for your altitude and modifications. Target 12.3 to 12.8 afr on the gauge. If you want to make even more torque than that run a stroker crank. I suggest this because i doubt you are looking to make peak hp up at 7000 plus rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After talking to Benchmark earlier he said the same thing as you superchikn! He said the head work and valves would not give me power where I want it only at the top end. He suggested his 105.5mm bbk with a 10.75/1 JE Piston. I have read on here that there are some guys running this HunterWorks package with 2k and 3k miles with no problems so it seemed good to me. Definitely WAAAYY better than stock! If I go the 105.5 route will I be able to tune it with only the MSD or will I have to get PC 3 to set the fuel? I was looking at the +4mm crank cause like you say super I don't ever turn 7k rpms. I just heard alot of horror stories about strokers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh yeah he also suggested a custom grind web cam with clearanced rockers! Is there a web cam that will give more low and mid than my hotcam? I Am confused on which way to go?
 

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No you wont need the pc3 piggyback unless you go to a raptor stage 2 or larger cam. Any cam that requires clearanced rockers is gonna probably be too much cam for your use in my opinion. i mean you are looking for torque not hp. Well you really gotta think from here. If you are gonna split cases to install a crank, may as well have the cases bored and run a 108mm piston kit its hardly any more money than a 105.5 kit
. If you do the 108 kit you may not even want to waste the money on a stroker crank. But thats up to you. Your cam is small but it comes on instantly pretty much right off idle and i think thats what you are looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So for what I want superchikn you suggest keep my set up just step up to a 105.5 bbk and tune it with a wide band A/F sensor. You said leave the head stock what about boring the TB? I really don't wanna split the cases. Why can't Yamaha just come out with a damn V-twin utv?! Even John Deere has a V-twin 850 utv now!lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So what's the story on these stroker cranks?! Good, bad, indifferent? I am seriously looking at a OEM crank that is a +4mm stroke by crankworks with a good rod at unleashedutv. I know the strokers are making good power but for how long? Are yall having many problems with them? Depending on if I split the cases will determine if I go 105.5mm or 108mm on the piston. So many choices!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok think I have about decided to just do the 734 kit and port and polish the head and bore the throttle body. Who do you recommend for head work on a 700 ?
 

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Ok think I have about decided to just do the 734 kit and port and polish the head and bore the throttle body. Who do you recommend for head work on a 700 ?

Call Nate over at Alba Racing! They've been building engines for racing teams for quite a while now. He knows what works.
 

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ok think i have about decided to just do the 734 kit and port and polish the head and bore the throttle body. Who do you recommend for head work on a 700 ?

call nate over at alba racing! They've been building engines for racing teams for quite a while now. He knows what works.
x2 i have heard nothing but good things about alba
 

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i was lookin at a big bore kit on ebay..think its 10.1-1 can i run that with stock cam, carb and head? lookin for low end power?..not thread jackin just figured id get an opninion also..thanx
 

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i was lookin at a big bore kit on ebay..think its 10.1-1 can i run that with stock cam, carb and head? lookin for low end power?..not thread jackin just figured id get an opninion also..thanx

I'm sure you could, but I'd make sure to stay away from the off brand stuff. Heard too many stories of engines being damaged. Not sure what engine you have, but my personal opinion would be to add a sheeve that's been modified to lower the gearing, ( hotrod is a popular one ) then add a good exhaust and cam. ( easy bolt on ) The lower gearing will help the bottom end and the exhaust with cam, will give you very good increase in power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Rampage I wouldn't start things off with a big bore. Do you have a MSD ignition? You will have to have that first to do all your tuning. Then from there you can get the hotcams rhino stage 2 or raptor stage 1 which is the same cam. This will be the most noticeable gain for you through the whole power band. To really get all the performance out of the cam you need a good free flowing exhaust like the muzzy duals. Then from there if you want more HP which if you get the bug like me you will keep wanting more ponies you can step up to the big bore kit. You can use stock carb with correct jetting and stock head but I would definitely change the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Roo brought up a good point too! Clutching! since you said carb I am assuming you have a 660. So putting a Orange secondary spring in and getting a machined sheave like from JBS Performance or HunterWorks and dropping the roller weights to 16g or possibly 14g will give you more low end.
 

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sorry for thread jack..but yes i have dynatek cdi and HW sheave with 16g greaseless. uni filter and power tip..yes its 660
Cool, then add a good exhaust, like Muzzy, or Alba, with a cam, then re- jet your carb for a very nice increase in power you will feel. Very good bang for the buck! HAHAHA!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
X2! Roo is right on! The cam is the best bang for your buck! You can get the cam for under $190!You'll be surprised at the difference. You can run the cam with just the power tip but make sure your carb is jetted right. But if you can afford the Muzzys they should give you another 5-6 HP! Kinda pricey though around $700!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And Todd (HunterWorks) has an install video for the cam on his site. Pretty easy just make sure you align ur timing marks and use rags to cover up the timing chain hole while pulling the decompression mechanism bolts and the cam sprocket bolts. You don't want one to go down in the case if you drop it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey Roo what's the story on the MSD FI Ignition with 3D mapping? Thinking about waiting until it comes out then doing the 734 kit on mine. I dunno I like the PC5 cause the Auto tuning option! MSD should have that option too!
 
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