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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What got me started in all of this was holes that were in the fender area on the hood and bedsides from fender flares. They were on there when I bought the Rhino a couple weeks ago. So I filled the holes and also got rid of the hood dimple while I was at it. I used SEM plastic bonding expoxy (I don't have the product number at this very moment) which bonds plastic to plastic or any metal. I have used this product many times before on some custom vehicle builds, Hondas, Toyotas ect, and have not had any cracking issues.

As painting goes I am going to do some sort of graphics. The silver is the first color I sprayed and cleared which will be the base for the candy color and the pinstriping. One reason I cleared the silver is to have a good working base for the candy and if I mess up on the graphics I still have room to sand it down again and start over without messing up the silver. I am leaving it Silver for the Crash this weekend then starting on the graphics next week. I will post pics of graphics and how I did them when I get done.

I started this on Friday with filling the holes in the fenders and then on Sunday I did the dimples and finshed priming and painting last night. I use PPG and House of Kolor products on all my paint.

So enjoy the pics.



stock


Dimple cut out, using a body saw.


Dimple area filed and sanded down using 80 and 180 grit.


Dimple area bonded with metal peice


Close up of bonded dimple area, this get sanded with 36 grit prior to filler use.


Area filled using Rage extreme usually 2 skim coats. and blocked with 80 grit and final blocked with 180.


Once blocked and smooth, then comes primer PPG k36.


After first stage of primer, primed areas are blocked with 240 or 320 then area or whole hood is primed. It is easier to prime or seal the hood and bedsides prior to spraying the base. You will not use as much color to cover the green.


Ahhh, color (this was at 8:30PM Monday I started spraying at 55 degree) Caddy Silver. A light metallic. Went on smooth and silky.


And cleared. 2 light buildup coats then 1 coat with extra reducer to reduce orange peel. Remember I will be sanding alot of clear off for graphic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

Here is the Rhino the way I bought it. Notice the UGLY flares...


There were 6 or 7 holes on each fender that had to be filled.


All back together
 

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looks very nice. it would have been cool to seen some hood scoops where the hood dimples were.
 

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Wow, excellent job. Can't tell they were ever there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
fergie80 said:
Wow, excellent job. Can't tell they were ever there.
That was the goal!! I am working on a couple other items that I think help out with looks.. Stay tuned.
 

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Yes, I am wondering the same thing. I think you might have problems where you leveled the filler plate to the plastic. If bondo is thin it won't be an issue. Was that filler plate flush with the backside?
 

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I have faith that the plastic bondo will hold up great. If anything it's the heat that may worry me, but I ain't worried. You sound like you know your bodywork! I'd like to take my spare hood and shave my headlights and dimples as well, and airbrush the lights on, and beat it up as a race hood! So I don't damage a real nice glass hood. What part # epoxy is that or whatever? And you used metal as the filler? Would you do a pair of headlights in my hood for a fee? and leave it in primer?? how much Chris? I'll get my buddy to paint it all sick!
 

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nice job
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Its been a couple months since I have done this and it still is holding up all good.

The only thing is a bit of shrinkage in the body filler. So you can barely see the outline of the filler in certain light. I should have let the filler (bondo, rage, ect) sit a day so it would shrink up. But I was in a rush and wanted it painted. That can be taken care of with some graphics. Soon to come.

There really is no worries about cracking. I have done many shaving mods on bumpers of import cars and they are holding up well. I did a show Honda Accord that is juiced, fully shave front bumper, license plate box in the rear bumper and it is holding up great. Been two years since I did that.

The stuff used is a SEM product to bond plastic and metal,,,I dont have the numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Chris, I have some white plastics with green flames you can buy. LOL

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... You kill me... I love that flame job on those.

I was nice to meet you at AZ Sand Fest. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. still mad at ya.... haha
 

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Here is the Rhino the way I bought it. Notice the UGLY flares...


There were 6 or 7 holes on each fender that had to be filled.


All back together
Sweet work Chris!! I hadn't seen this thread originally. Awesome job!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Trying to decide on some graphics. I have thought of a bunch of differnt things to do too....still undecided.
 
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