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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i know this is a clone but I'm pretty sure the wiring is close to the 660 just with fuel injection...

So i was driving mine through the woods when it just died. Was running fine. I tried restarting the utv and the starter would turn the motor over but it wouldnt never crank. I got to looking around and noticed the gauge cluster wasnt working. No power. I also noticed when i turned the key off and back on the fuel pump wouldnt turn on. I checked the main fuse everything is good. I checked all the wires at the battery, good connections including the pigtail ground. I went through every harness and no wires are burnt and no plugs are melted.

What is a CDI box on rhinos is a fuse and relay box. Checked all fuses and everything was good. The relays arent serviceable as theyre soldered to a board. Its my understanding that everything gets power from this box except the starter. If its not hooked up to a fuse in this box then its hooked up to a relay. I'm leaning towards the box being my problem its just hard to believe i would loose so much at once.....

Help Needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So i have an update. I have gone through everything. Ive pulled all the conduit off to expose the wires on both the main wiring harness and EFI harness. Everything looks good which it should this is all brandnew wiring bought roughly a year ago.

I did finally get my gauge to come on. basically unplugged everything on the motor and ecu. I know that when i plug my fuel pump in i loose my gauge. I tested the fuel pump by hooking it directly to the battery and if comes on. If i plug the ebrake in it stays on until i pull the ebrake up and then i loose my gauge again. I have probed every connector testing both positive and negative back to the battery. Example if i wanted to test ground then i would hook the positive lead on my meter to the battery and the negative lead to the harness. Everything tested fine. Its like everytime i hook something up that pulls current or uses connection to ground (example ebrake & engine temp warning light) i loose power at the gauge. Could this be ECU, Gauge, wiring harness?

Im at a loss. Im close seeing how i got the gauge to finally work again...
 

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So i have an update. I have gone through everything. Ive pulled all the conduit off to expose the wires on both the main wiring harness and EFI harness. Everything looks good which it should this is all brandnew wiring bought roughly a year ago.

I did finally get my gauge to come on. basically unplugged everything on the motor and ecu. I know that when i plug my fuel pump in i loose my gauge. I tested the fuel pump by hooking it directly to the battery and if comes on. If i plug the ebrake in it stays on until i pull the ebrake up and then i loose my gauge again. I have probed every connector testing both positive and negative back to the battery. Example if i wanted to test ground then i would hook the positive lead on my meter to the battery and the negative lead to the harness. Everything tested fine. Its like everytime i hook something up that pulls current or uses connection to ground (example ebrake & engine temp warning light) i loose power at the gauge. Could this be ECU, Gauge, wiring harness?

Im at a loss. Im close seeing how i got the gauge to finally work again...
Well, since you have a clone, any suggestions based on knowledge of the Yamaha Rhino are iffy. If you lose all power when you draw a few amps you have flakey wiring somewhere. To check which individual circuit is at fault you will need to use the amp meter portion of a multimeter at the sub circuit that you want to evaluate (using appropriate range as not to burn out the multimeter). If you are not knowledgeable of electronics, you should ask someone that is knowledge to guide you through standing at your side. Doing this over the internet via text messages is not likely to do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I have yet another update. I have gone through every wire. Everything checks out. Two things I noticed I got 12.6v getting to the ECM but I got an error code for low voltage. I also noticed I was only getting 7.5v to the fuel pump.... I did hook the fuel pump to 12v & it works so.... I'm thinking ecm. I'll find out tomorrow just ordered one yesterday. I also noticed the fuel pump wire harness rubbed up against the motor so I'm thinking it shorted the ECM
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So i think its a relay. I say this because I'm only getting 6v on one pin at the 4pin fuel pump harness. I traced the wires out one was a white with black strips which comes from the computer and the other is a pink wire which goes back to my central relay fuse box (what looks like a cdi box)

I'm not sure if this is true but it appears that the pump gets a constant 6v from the computer and then another 6v from a relay which gives it 12v to run the pump. One of the wires for the fuel pump that lost some of its shield on the motor case ran back to that relay so maybe when the wire grounded out it blew the relay.

So to get power to it just for testing i found a 12v source and ran alligator clip leads from the source to the fuel pump harness just to bypass the relay and what do you know. Everything appeared to be working. Fuel pump turned on & i didnt loose power to any of the gauges. I didnt try to crank it because I'm not sure what tells the pump to turn off once it reaches pressure so i was worried i was going to burn it up. I know that when i pulled the 12v source off the fuel pump supplied via the alligator leads I loss everything again.

So I'm not sure how a relay for the fuel pump would cause me to loose everything. Its like the pump is trying to take voltage from another source and its causing the gauges to go off.... Not sure unless when the wire grounded and blew my relay it got a couple other things in the central relay fuse box......

thats where im at. I know its a clone but any of you out there that knows the electrical of a hisun or rhino please chime in and let me know if you think its the same thing.....
 

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Have you any strange looking wires in the relays area, possibly one that looks oversized gauge? There may be a fusible link wire in the mix that has been smoked by the short, and when you used the temporary jumper for 12V, it bypassed that wire that open circuited just as tho it had an actual fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I never gave an update on this but i did find the fix. The relay in the central relay box for the fuel pump went bad. If i remember correctly there was (2) wires that supplied voltage to the fuel pump both @ 6V to give it a total of 12v.

Unfortunately on this machine you cant replace the relays you have to buy a new relay box. This resolved the issue i was having.
 

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I never gave an update on this but i did find the fix. The relay in the central relay box for the fuel pump went bad. If i remember correctly there was (2) wires that supplied voltage to the fuel pump both @ 6V to give it a total of 12v.

Unfortunately on this machine you cant replace the relays you have to buy a new relay box. This resolved the issue i was having.
Glad you found the problem and thanks for the update. Electrical can drive you crazy chasing it.
 

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I never gave an update on this but i did find the fix. The relay in the central relay box for the fuel pump went bad. If i remember correctly there was (2) wires that supplied voltage to the fuel pump both @ 6V to give it a total of 12v.

Unfortunately on this machine you cant replace the relays you have to buy a new relay box. This resolved the issue i was having.
Strange that I came across your discussion. I just got the sane issue with a Hisun 700. Rolls over bit no cluster or fuel pump and lights. How much did the relay box set you back?
 
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