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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for a good reputable shop in Northern California to tune my 700.
Runs ok but seems a bit lean at idle and doesn't idle real well especially when cold.
Don't want to make the long trip to SoCal to get it tuned if I can find someone local.
Thanks guys.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is Reno within your radius?

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Yes I'd definitely consider Reno if it's someone who knows what they're doing.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info., I'll give them a call. Looks like a nice shop.
Any other recommendations for shops in the Sacramento or Stockton area would be appreciated.

Thanks again for your help LBR.


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Thanks for the info., I'll give them a call. Looks like a nice shop.
Any other recommendations for shops in the Sacramento or Stockton area would be appreciated.

Thanks again for your help LBR.


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Your welcome....and one of these buddys lives in Sac, but has his tuning done at S2S....

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm assuming a shop like this will be able to get my mapping setup correctly along with clutching, etc.?



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I'm assuming a shop like this will be able to get my mapping setup correctly along with clutching, etc.?
According to my sources, they are the bomb in your area for power tuning by dyno .....am sure they could get your clutching close, but that is also something most guys keep playing with a little after they are tuned so as to fit their riding styles ....you a duner or trail rider mostly?

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mostly trails and rocks with a little duning here and there.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again for your help Lance, I'll be calling them this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Haha, not a problem except I'm not a Facebook guy.
Anything else I can do to help? Already an anual member of the BRC, great group.

Good luck and thanks again.........
 

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I'm assuming a shop like this will be able to get my mapping setup correctly along with clutching, etc.?
According to my sources, they are the bomb in your area for power tuning by dyno .....am sure they could get your clutching close, but that is also something most guys keep playing with a little after they are tuned so as to fit their riding styles ....you a duner or trail rider mostly?

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x2 that tuning your cvt for application is best done by you...

Having said that...so is the fuel curve...and an a/f gauge is very useful tool...

However, if you don't want to do either yourself regardless of the reason then doing both on the chassis dyno at the same time would be the way to go...

For your 700 with JBS sheave I would have three secondary springs stock, epi purple, epi gold with me and a set of 8 16g and a set of 8 18g OD slider weights as well...this gives three weight tuning range... 16g/17g/18g... odds are anything above and below those values will not be ideal with any of the springs...

I would tune the a/f curve for max power to the wheels at all speeds first...then go through the THREE sets of weights available to you with each of the springs...and I would do that with the tires you intend to run...not with "dyno-tires" ... if possible....

That will give you ALL the information to make a judgement value later to make any adjustments later on your own with highly predictable results...

IMO... the time and money spent to do the dyno-tuning is not worth it unless you get extensive data back in return to aid you in your own tuning down the road...

The spring/weight combo that puts the most power to the wheels (assuming same wheels) is the one that will give you the fastest times in a level run of -300' with excellent traction as on pavement...

From there you MIGHT prefer a different combination of parts for specific applications but your starting from a place that is going to be close to ideal for most applications...loading down the vehicle even more and then climbing big sand hills would be better served from there by lighter weights and possibly stiffer spring...

You can do both your fuel curve and your cvt optimization yourself by doing 0-300' timed runs and tuning everything for lowest e/t's...this is what I call the diy-dyno...does the exact same thing as tuning on a chassis dyno...only you have to do the work...

An a/f gauge and plug condition inspection after tuning help make sure you are not off in left field but the stop watch will tell you if you are making good power or not...if you are in the "good" range with your a/f your power will be in the good range and your times will be in the ball park of other vehicles with similar hp/lb, tire size, etc....
 

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Haha, not a problem except I'm not a Facebook guy.
Anything else I can do to help? Already an anual member of the BRC, great group.

Good luck and thanks again.........
Haha.....not referring to my signature at all....just my crazy humor that you can't come back on me if your not pleased...lol...

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Haha, not a problem except I'm not a Facebook guy.
Anything else I can do to help? Already an anual member of the BRC, great group.

Good luck and thanks again.........
Haha.....not referring to my signature at all....just my crazy humor that you can't come back on me if your not pleased...lol...

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Ahhhhhhh, gotcha and don't worry not a problem.
 

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Matt, let me know if I can support in any way. I could send another map with some fuel added down low but it would be guess work.

Does it act differently than it did here?

Something to consider, if it is warmup related and runs fine after reaching operating temp....... The Power Commander only lets us add or subtract fuel. It can't differentiate for cold start or high temps, etc. That is up to the factory ECU. If you make it start better, it might run worse in all other conditions, etc. This is NOT a fact, but something to consider.

Also guys, his signature shows some mods, it will want lighter weights in the clutch than a stock 700 engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Matt, let me know if I can support in any way. I could send another map with some fuel added down low but it would be guess work.

Does it act differently than it did here?

Something to consider, if it is warmup related and runs fine after reaching operating temp....... The Power Commander only lets us add or subtract fuel. It can't differentiate for cold start or high temps, etc. That is up to the factory ECU. If you make it start better, it might run worse in all other conditions, etc. This is NOT a fact, but something to consider.

Also guys, his signature shows some mods, it will want lighter weights in the clutch than a stock 700 engine.
It's still acting like it did at the shop. Even when warm it doesn't like to start up and idle smoothly without sitting in it and giving it throttle. According to my AF gauge it idles at around 14.5. Once up off idle it runs good and pulls pretty hard and the AF readings are pretty close.

I wish you were closer as I'd just run it down (still may do this, not sure yet, I'll let you know).

Thanks again,
 

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Can this be the difference in elevations or are they close to the same?

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't think so because it runs the same at 1000' or at 9000'. I thought the stock ECU took care of altitude.
 

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I don't think so because it runs the same at 1000' or at 9000'. I thought the stock ECU took care of altitude.
No...the ECU won't cover that ....needing a bit more fuel on bottom end per Chris sounds like the plan.

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