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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just finished plumbing my new radiator. I was using a Honda radiator, but I found that it struggled to keep the engine cool when running hard for long periods of time.

I realize I'll get criticized for having it so close to the kids' seats, but keep in mind I don't dune with the kids in the car. Kids are only in the Rhino when cruising or putting down the beach at Pismo.

You'll notice two fans on the radiator. One is wired to a thermostat switch, and the other is on a manually operated switch. This allows me to turn the fan on whenever I like. It's also a fail-safe in case one fan/relay/thermostat goes bad. I also had the radiator builder add bungs specifically for the R1 engine (1" in/outlets, oil cooler coolant return, purge air return, thermostat, and water temp sending unit). So far it looks good and idles at around 175 with fan off. I'll update this post after I get to run the Rhino for a while.




 

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Eeek. Yeah, that upper hose is pretty scary to me, even just cruising.

I had a hose blow on my R1 under my console, with my 3 yr old on board, and it blew out the gap around the throttle bodies and got us both. Luckily it was the cold side, and the car wasn't even warm yet. Scary moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
whose the manufacturer?
I had it custom made by Hot Rod City Garage in San Bernardino, Ca. Hot Rod City
Jeff can build you whatever you like. I paid $450 for the radiator w/ bungs, overflow tank, and shroud w/ fans.

Eeek. Yeah, that upper hose is pretty scary to me, even just cruising.

I had a hose blow on my R1 under my console, with my 3 yr old on board, and it blew out the gap around the throttle bodies and got us both. Luckily it was the cold side, and the car wasn't even warm yet. Scary moment.
Wow, that is scary. I figure I'll ride it hard for a while before I let the kids aboard. I'm also thinking I might have the inlet mounted somewhere else on the radiator.
 

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I think you shouldn't run it back there with it being soo close to the seat...how about you mount it horizontal side to side on the front frame rails between the wheels pulling air up through the hood,cut some louvers on the hood or something to vent it upwards...the fans will be doing all the work which is what mostly happens with a custom build regaurdless....give me the overall dimensions of the radiator and fans with shrouds, I'm sure it could be cram'd up front, I'll go measure my chassis and see if it can clear the shock tops and underside of the hood..
 

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whose the manufacturer?
I had it custom made by Hot Rod City Garage in San Bernardino, Ca. Hot Rod City
Jeff can build you whatever you like. I paid $450 for the radiator w/ bungs, overflow tank, and shroud w/ fans.

Eeek. Yeah, that upper hose is pretty scary to me, even just cruising.

I had a hose blow on my R1 under my console, with my 3 yr old on board, and it blew out the gap around the throttle bodies and got us both. Luckily it was the cold side, and the car wasn't even warm yet. Scary moment.
Wow, that is scary. I figure I'll ride it hard for a while before I let the kids aboard. I'm also thinking I might have the inlet mounted somewhere else on the radiator.
why not mount it backwards so the hoses point away.
 

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why don't you guys with these r1s run the biggest radiator you can up front and then run a secondary radiator under the drivers seat blowing air out the side of the car which would suck air out of the engine compartment, seems like two radiators with effecient fans properly shrouded and ducted would do the job, of corse this is for the four seater guys needing the back seat area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
why not mount it backwards so the hoses point away.
I didn't mount the inlet backwards because if the hose was to blow off, then it would shoot all the coolant towards the front of the car.

why don't you guys with these r1s run the biggest radiator you can up front and then run a secondary radiator under the drivers seat blowing air out the side of the car which would suck air out of the engine compartment, seems like two radiators with effecient fans properly shrouded and ducted would do the job, of corse this is for the four seater guys needing the back seat area?
That was actually something that was recommended, but I have all my electrical components under the driver's seat and fuel tank under the passenger's seat. Additionally, I wanted the extra weight in the back of the car for easier wheelies. :bike4:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was joking about the wheelies. As far as the hose popping out, I really don't think that'll be an issue. That silicone hose is sooo tight on the 1" aluminum pipe that I honestly don't even think I needed hose clamps. I had to cut one off to remove it. I'm am a bit concerned about the heat though. I may make some type of shield that surrounds the edges of the radiator. I appreciate the concerns, but like I mentioned previously. I only putt around with the kids and I'll make sure to run the system through a few severe heat cycles before I even consider letting anyone ride back there. I may also tilt the bench up a bit.
 

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Trunknuts:

I do not want to jump on the "bash Trunknuts train," but you are seriously violating the "fail safe" engineering concept. That is, a device has to be designed such that when the device fails (and all devices will fail and, at the worst possible time), the device WILL fail into a safe mode.

As a example, when a coupler fails on a train, and the cars breaks loose from the locomotive, the brakes, on the cars, will fail in the "apply the brakes mode." That is, the brakes are applied. Otherwise you have a run away train and, a train wreck. This concept was learned, 150 years ago, in the steam powered locomotive days. They had a lot of train wrecks before Westinghouse figured this out.

On my build, I will have a drive shaft (going from the engine to the SKIDOO tranny) that will be located between the driver and passenger, at knee level. When (not if) that drive shaft fails, it will become a flailing steel club. I intend to have a "failed" drive shaft retaining device that will contain the drive shaft, when it fails.

Your kids are too important to violate the "fail safe" rule of engineering. You have placed a mere 1/4" piece of rubber between your babies and scalding water. Listen to what everyone is telling you.

Sorry for the lecture, but you need to change this design.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Trunknuts:

I do not want to jump on the "bash Trunknuts train," but you are seriously violating the "fail safe" engineering concept. That is, a device has to be designed such that when the device fails (and all devices will fail and, at the worst possible time), the device WILL fail into a safe mode.

As a example, when a coupler fails on a train, and the cars breaks loose from the locomotive, the brakes, on the cars, will fail in the "apply the brakes mode." That is, the brakes are applied. Otherwise you have a run away train and, a train wreck. This concept was learned, 150 years ago, in the steam powered locomotive days. They had a lot of train wrecks before Westinghouse figured this out.

On my build, I will have a drive shaft (going from the engine to the SKIDOO tranny) that will be located between the driver and passenger, at knee level. When (not if) that drive shaft fails, it will become a flailing steel club. I intend to have a "failed" drive shaft retaining device that will contain the drive shaft, when it fails.

Your kids are too important to violate the "fail safe" rule of engineering. You have placed a mere 1/4" piece of rubber between your babies and scalding water. Listen to what everyone is telling you.

Sorry for the lecture, but you need to change this design.

Jim
Point taken. Maybe I haven't been so concerned because I don't have kids and the only time I've had a kid on was at Pismo on the beach. I've built my four seat Rhino with the intention that I'll have kids sometime soon. I genuinely appreciate everyone's concern.

What if, I have that top inlet sealed off with a welded plate of aluminum and I mount the inlet and outlet on the bottom of the radiator like the MXC radiator/intercooler?



Would this be safer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think you shouldn't run it back there with it being soo close to the seat...how about you mount it horizontal side to side on the front frame rails between the wheels pulling air up through the hood,cut some louvers on the hood or something to vent it upwards...the fans will be doing all the work which is what mostly happens with a custom build regaurdless....give me the overall dimensions of the radiator and fans with shrouds, I'm sure it could be cram'd up front, I'll go measure my chassis and see if it can clear the shock tops and underside of the hood..
Sorry Cam, I overlooked this post. I really tried to get this thing to fit up front. I was originally running an oversized Honda radiator and although it worked well enough, there were a few times where I didn't like how high the temps went. I've listened to all your concerns and decided that I will make some modifications. I'll get it done and post up some pictures soon.

Thanks again everyone. I had to take a step back and realize that sometimes we are own enemy. I'm glad you guys pointed these things out.:hug:
 

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What if, I have that top inlet sealed off with a welded plate of aluminum and I mount the inlet and outlet on the bottom of the radiator like the MXC radiator/intercooler?

Would this be safer?
I like this option the best, but it would be more complicated that just moving the inlet. You would need a top/bottom tank design, rather than a side tank. This is the radiator Im using, its a fluidyne from PeterD. It can mount in any direction, he welds the cap on to your specifications. I have it setup with both inlet and outlet on the bottom.



That would put all your connections low and behind the seat, and with some aluminum shielding would be sufficient, I think. Then you only would need to worry about the radiator cap, and overflow hose as potentially unsafe if they fail.
 

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Or you can always spend a little money on the HUGE AN fittings, and do it that way. You would have to have a new fitting welded for the inlet at the top, and then run AN fittings and stainless braided hoses. I would feel safe with that sort of setup, just cruising. Those big coolant fittings/hoses aren't cheap though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I did some research and the most budget friendly way of modifying my setup is with AN fittings. I'm gonna use -16 fittings (1"). Gonna cost around $240 for all fittings and hoses. Sucks, but it's worth the piece of mind.
 

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why don't you guys with these r1s run the biggest radiator you can up front and then run a secondary radiator under the drivers seat blowing air out the side of the car which would suck air out of the engine compartment, seems like two radiators with effecient fans properly shrouded and ducted would do the job, of corse this is for the four seater guys needing the back seat area?
I upgraded to 1-1/4" lines from the Radiator and then downsized to 1" at the motor before this last trip. I run engine ice and once finally bled I saw no hotter than 217 climbing the right side of Old's. Made several passes down the drags and saw no hotter than 198 with the Honda Radiator. The extra coolant capacity of the 1-1/4 lines helped tremendously and only cost me $75.:banana:
 

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Well, I did some research and the most budget friendly way of modifying my setup is with AN fittings. I'm gonna use -16 fittings (1"). Gonna cost around $240 for all fittings and hoses. Sucks, but it's worth the piece of mind.
cant you get some alum lines bent and just weld AN fittings at the end...sound like you need some help where you located at maybe i can help you think something up..
 

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Sorry Trunk but I'm going to have to jump on that Bashing design train. Who did this fab work??
Did they really tell you that this would be a good placement for a radiator?

I see slim to VERY little air flow getting through that radiator with it hidden halfway behind the seat. Not to mention once a pass. goes in the back now the entire radiator is blocked from air flow.

It woulnd't be that bad if there was no rear seat but you did add a lot of length between the engine and radiator with several 90deg. bends.

There's no need to install 2 radiators. It's the fact that you need the correct radiator for the application. Street bike motors are ridden extremely hard on the track. I bet way harder then you'll ever put this through and they don't run 30" car radiators. It's good air flow and direct coolant flow with correct designed radiator.

I'd invest in that PeterD Fluidyne Radiator. It's less then 14" X 17" and I will bet you can fit it up front down low.



major Safety factor here....please do not ride anybody back there with that current set up.
Not bashing your rhino I just don't want to see someone get hurt and second I think your going to run into cooling problems with that design.

keep us posted.
 
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