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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
went to the dezert this weekend and blew up the motor. its a stock 06 660, i think the comp release pin cam out and smoked the top end. how much is it to do a r1 motor swap and how relaible are they? vs doing a rotox or built stroker motor?
 

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build a good rhino engine for it, or buy one already done.......seems the rotax swaps are a wiring diagnostic headache that cost 5 grand before you get a doner quad to start the swap....my two cents..and if you've ever owned a banshee, to me thats the kind of power band you're dealing with if you put a r1 in your rhino, all top and no bottom..........wouldn't do the r1 unless I was racing across the dirt at 80mph..........
 

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as much as a can am 975 in stock form if its built right.........can am on proshops dyno puts out [email protected] rwheels, will have a good built 660 on his dyno this week hopefully that will put down about 52 or so..............if thats the case a stroker should be putting down 57 or so...and 57-58 is what a stock xp900 shows on his dyno.........
 

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as much as a can am 975 in stock form if its built right.........can am on proshops dyno puts out [email protected] rwheels, will have a good built 660 on his dyno this week hopefully that will put down about 52 or so..............if thats the case a stroker should be putting down 57 or so...and 57-58 is what a stock xp900 shows on his dyno.........
But how will the power of a 660 based motor compare to the power of a 800 twin rotax? As far as driveabilty goes? Seems like a good stock twin would be eaiser to drive when not at wot all the time than a built 660. Meaning roll on power or tourqe with the rotax compared to a highly built 660 based that prb likes rpm's?
 

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there is no substitute for cubic inches, bigger is better, when somebody makes a stand alone management system for a decent price I will bolt in a rotax, until then i will pass on the rotax......

ryr kit 2000
wiring conversion 1200
clutch 800
management/programmer 800

thats the cost from what I've found out and you still havn't picked up a quad to steal all the parts off of yet.....thats 3000 to 6000 more.......yikes.....its a 10k conversion minus if u can sell ur motor...
 

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the 693 i picked up from court put down 56hp.. But it aint no xp for sure...

I can do 20 ish at the top of olds..(4 seater)

I did 40 at the top in Johnny's XP
 

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weight and clutching and combination have tons to do with it......don't believe the digital dash displays when it comes to hill speed, they measure transmission revolutions and not actual ground speed...........
 

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Bronco clutch.. Thats not an issue..

Weight is, but I still feel the XP is way faster..

There was a xp(not stock) giving an R1 Rhino hell at the drags..
 

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true, xps are impressive, liked them alot better than the artic cat for fit and finish etc...more leg room in the ac over the xp.....the hill is kind of not a good way to compare a products performance, I'd rather take it duning and drive the crud out of it and see how one compares to the other once its moving and duning you seem to get a better feel for its power, my two cents''
 

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weight and clutching and combination have tons to do with it......don't believe the digital dash displays when it comes to hill speed, they measure transmission revolutions and not actual ground speed...........
sorry for the hi-jack... or camshaw, you can reply on the thread i just posted. If speedo measures tranny revolutions, does that mean I can't jack up the rear and manually spin tire in neutral, to see if my speedo or sensor are working (i tried replacing one at a time)?
 

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the 693 i picked up from court put down 56hp.. But it aint no xp for sure...

I can do 20 ish at the top of olds..(4 seater)

I did 40 at the top in Johnny's XP
My stock motor with exhaust & intake can only go up olds from the left side angle & was only going 9 mph. when I finally got to the top
So 20 to me would be like flying
 

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dont get crazy with it..

i was going for a 686 before I found Courts motor..

BUT I am still planning something else, like a Rotax or Sv1
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i just want a well built reliable motor thats going to last longer than 60 hours and have more power, seems like everyone has here opinion on stroker motors but my stock motor blew up with 60 hours on it so........i guess if it last a few hunder hours im good. also something good for glamis, something with good low end.
 

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the stock cast piston is the biggest problem with a stock 660, then the middle drive support in the case, then the rod........thats my opinion.........60hrs is kinda sad, but who knows how its been maintained or driven....you should get a fordged piston and good rod and have the middle drive welded and all the guts locktited or heliarc tacked in place and a good head gasket and you're on the road for alot more hours than that........check the oil every morning out on the trail and clean and oil the aircleaner every trip........treat it nice and drive the crap out of it and it should be fine.......

the best660 based motor bang for the buck I think is the 6 mm stroker crank with the stock lenght rod........dont build a short rod motor, they wont last too long and they overspeed the piston which in turn leads the clynder head to not being able to supply what the engine needs.......
 
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