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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 06 660 Rhino, Green, Ramsey winch, roof, cd box. ITP mud lites on ITP rims. Other than that it's stock. I had been thinking about selling it for a Cammander but the price is nuts. I thought I would join and upgrade my Rhino instead. It is essentially a work horse for my property that plays at the dunes as an anchor for the queads....hence my issues. I would like to get more power, quite it down and greatly improve the stock travel suspension. I'ts been a great machine for it's first 730 miles but now it's decision time. Any comment will be appreciated. Also if anybody was interested in an 06, let em know. I may still become a traitor and get a CommanderX..
 

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I have an 06 660 Rhino, Green, Ramsey winch, roof, cd box. ITP mud lites on ITP rims. Other than that it's stock. I had been thinking about selling it for a Cammander but the price is nuts. I thought I would join and upgrade my Rhino instead. It is essentially a work horse for my property that plays at the dunes as an anchor for the queads....hence my issues. I would like to get more power, quite it down and greatly improve the stock travel suspension. I'ts been a great machine for it's first 730 miles but now it's decision time. Any comment will be appreciated. Also if anybody was interested in an 06, let em know. I may still become a traitor and get a CommanderX..
There are two things you can do to get more power to wheels with adding an exhaust...

One is a sheave machined for lower gearing from a stop like the JBS Hot Rod Sheave...and an orange secondary spring... that combination will give you a better hole shot...better acceleration from a stop...lower cruising rpms...and 5-8 mph more top speed than you have now...

The other is a high flow intake like ours...it deletes the air box...you seal off the hole in the air scoop for the engine cover...no more air intake noise piped in your ear and 15-20% increase in rwhp with correct jetting even with a stock exhaust...

As for suspension even a set of used sport model shocks for around $500 in good condition will make a day and night difference...especially in the whoops at the dunes...

Altogether a major difference in performance with less noise for around a $1k total.... I don't think you can beat that...

Here is a link to our ad on this forum for our intakes... http://www.rhinoforums.net/ruttingrhino-com/57691-got-air.html

Actually there are three you can also get a flat slide carb for it too but they are not the most user-friendly and if you go that route I highly recommend you get an a/f gauge too... definitely some gain there but not a lot of bang for the buck like the intake and cvt...

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Welcome! Definatly listen to rutting rhino, he knows what he is talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your replys. Where is the best place to get the sheave and springs from? Also, anybody have experience with locating the intake box and filter under the drivers seat?
 

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The best place for the sheave is Jbs. You wont find a better sheave!
JBS: Cell: 304-673-2602 Shop: 304-877-3419
 

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Thanks for your replys. Where is the best place to get the sheave and springs from? Also, anybody have experience with locating the intake box and filter under the drivers seat?
X2 on the sheave...

What would be the point of putting an air filter under the seat...???

No intake with a long tube and an airbox is going to make superior power... 'cold air' is seriously overrated...

Air Intake

Our custom intakes make great power even with a stock exhaust, fit like a glove, mount solid, and come with the complete jet kit...

Here is a link to our vendor section here on the forum... http://www.rhinoforums.net/ruttingrhino-com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Part of y issue with the Rhine is the intake noise, I seldom use it at the dunes and use it around my property...Cant even talk to a passnger due to the intake noise. I don't use it in deep water either so I thought by relocating the intake under the seat I could quiet it down. Of sourse I would use as large a diameter of hose as possible and use a large/highflow filter s&B has a kit for it to do just that at $269. I want to know if it is worth it and it works. I may have made the stock air box louder when I went with opening the intake tube into the stock box larger too.
 

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I am not going to comment on the intake you are referencing to and I highly recommend you take a different approach for diy peace and quiet...

If quiet is your highest priority you can kill two birds with one stone by reverting to 04-style...

As you already know the stock snorkel is a power killer and making it larger kills your ear drums...

And as I said the whole 'cold-air' 'clean-air' thing is WAY over-rated...but the cold air/clean air is where the factory went wrong in 2005-07...

In 2004 there was no air scoop on the engine cover and there was no "snorkel" attached to the air box lid...the had a bigger main jet, ran better, had better power...and much quieter...

So essentially when you made the snorkel bigger to get more air (which is fine that is what one actually needs) you converted it to the same air flow as an 04...not sure if you jetted it or not but you should have...

However, all you had to do and what you should go do right this minute IMO...is take the snorkel off...seal off the hole in the scoop to block noise and dust and you will be blessed with peace and quiet...

Then you should order one of our small jet kits so you can make it run to perfection for what you have...

Our intake will make way more power than that with correct jetting and comes with a complete jet kit that will cover all mods internal and external...present and future...

Additionally, it does NOT get air from the cab...is MUCH quieter than what you had before and day and night less noise than what you have now...

Having said that...it is louder than the stock air box with foam filter...especially the stock foam filter...with the lid on...the foam filter plus the lid do muffle sound better...

Once you seal off the air scoop for noise...our intake sounds a lot like a late model factory exhaust on a high output car or truck...it is NOT as loud as the factory intake on a 05-07 rhino with the factory snorkel getting air from the cab...

If you want to get an idea of what our intake sounds like run yours briefly without the airbox lid with the hole in the scoop sealed off...ours is a little louder than that but not much...

04-style if cheap and easy... a no-brainer imo even if you don't care about making good power...just for the peace and quiet...!

It will be running lean until you tune the carb, however...

The piping under the seat or hood is an exercise in futility and a complete waste of time and money...

Anyone needing snorkeled intake for deep water and wanting good power too would be well-advised to adapt 4" i.d. abs to the air box like with a clamp on k&n (you need an air box lid delete adapter for that)... and run the pipe as straight up/out the back as possible with only a 45* bend at the air box itself...

That will get the intake nice and high up and w/o choking off the intake...the k&n will help a lot at that point too...and of course to make best power jetting always has to be correct...that snorkeled intake will flow way better than the stock airbox with lid and stock foam filter...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
now thats a comprehensive answer.....Thanks for your help, I will try the 04 idea. I have not yet rejetted, saved that for future thought. I believed the air box mod was minimal but it does appear to run lean.

Do you have any idea abought extended crank and hard start if the rhino is parked for over two weeks?>
 

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Yes...there is no question that the stock pilot jet is too lean and your idle a/f is too lean...you are half-correct that the larger i.d. on the intake is not a huge difference in a/f requiring a larger main jet in that in higher elevations/temperatures the stock 145 is the correct main jet for that intake...but not for lower elevations and colder temperatures...and it is a a power increase when jetted correctly...if you go from correct jetting with the snorkel to lean w/o it you loose power...the power loss/gain difference is dictated by conditions not the lack of increase in air flow...

We sell fuel kits that hold prime longer and some come with bulb primers...all of our fuel kits make it easier to install a bulb primer if want to get your own...and still provide the trouble shooting benefits as well as a more efficient fuel delivery...

The high volume relocation kits (available but not currently on website) hold prime a long time to start with...we developed this kit to specifically to get the fuel pump away from the heat source that causes vapor locking and pre-mature pump failure and in the process killed two birds with one stone as this kit holds prime way way longer than the normal fuel delivery systems...electric fuel pumps not with standing...

Electric fuel pumps have their own set of problems to deal with and are a safety hazard...they can be used with good effect as primers when set up as a booster pump on a momentary switch which requires the switch to be manually held in the ON position to operate...

Our fuel pump relocation mounting brackets make installing an electric pump easy as they are pre-drilled to fit the high volume pump, stock pump, and the Mr. Gasket 3 psi pump...we will sell bracket and fuel line for a diy-electric primer install but no tech support and no fuel pump or wiring...at this time ALL electric pump installs are strictly DIY...

The high volume pump will always pump more gas to carb faster (a little more than twice as fast) than a stock pump when carb bowl is not primed regardless of where you mount them..and come with bulb primers to make priming a completely empty system a simple matter of reaching behind the passenger seat and giving a couple of squeezes...the bulb primers are cheap and easy...that is why I like them...but the electric primers are awesome...

Bottom line is endless cranking and hard starts can be eliminated with a combination of correct pilot jet a fully primed carb...simple as that...

The question is which route is best for any given rhino owner...and we do try real hard to have packages for all budgets and needs...

The relocation kit is the most expensive one we sell it's $175 plus $10 s&h
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes...there is no question that the stock pilot jet is too lean and your idle a/f is too lean...you are half-correct that the larger i.d. on the intake is not a huge difference in a/f requiring a larger main jet in that in higher elevations/temperatures the stock 145 is the correct main jet for that intake...but not for lower elevations and colder temperatures...and it is a a power increase when jetted correctly...if you go from correct jetting with the snorkel to lean w/o it you loose power...the power loss/gain difference is dictated by conditions not the lack of increase in air flow...

We sell fuel kits that hold prime longer and some come with bulb primers...all of our fuel kits make it easier to install a bulb primer if want to get your own...and still provide the trouble shooting benefits as well as a more efficient fuel delivery...

The high volume relocation kits (available but not currently on website) hold prime a long time to start with...we developed this kit to specifically to get the fuel pump away from the heat source that causes vapor locking and pre-mature pump failure and in the process killed two birds with one stone as this kit holds prime way way longer than the normal fuel delivery systems...electric fuel pumps not with standing...

Electric fuel pumps have their own set of problems to deal with and are a safety hazard...they can be used with good effect as primers when set up as a booster pump on a momentary switch which requires the switch to be manually held in the ON position to operate...

Our fuel pump relocation mounting brackets make installing an electric pump easy as they are pre-drilled to fit the high volume pump, stock pump, and the Mr. Gasket 3 psi pump...we will sell bracket and fuel line for a diy-electric primer install but no tech support and no fuel pump or wiring...at this time ALL electric pump installs are strictly DIY...

The high volume pump will always pump more gas to carb faster (a little more than twice as fast) than a stock pump when carb bowl is not primed regardless of where you mount them..and come with bulb primers to make priming a completely empty system a simple matter of reaching behind the passenger seat and giving a couple of squeezes...the bulb primers are cheap and easy...that is why I like them...but the electric primers are awesome...

Bottom line is endless cranking and hard starts can be eliminated with a combination of correct pilot jet a fully primed carb...simple as that...

The question is which route is best for any given rhino owner...and we do try real hard to have packages for all budgets and needs...

The relocation kit is the most expensive one we sell it's $175 plus $10 s&h
Ok, I ordered the intake kit and the fuel pump kit just now....order # 1390. Not worried about fuel pump heat as I live and use the Rhino on the Oregon coast. I live at sea level more or less and the motor is stock accept for a cdi... do you have specs for the best jetting when this comes to take the guess work out of jetting. Thanks for all your help. I did the intake block off and eliminated the tube for now. I would say its 20% quieter. now if I can figure out how to reduce noise from the seat to bed area... I would really like to get my hands on those I shocks for sale but it sounds like he has a waiting list...bummer!
 

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Yes...there is no question that the stock pilot jet is too lean and your idle a/f is too lean...you are half-correct that the larger i.d. on the intake is not a huge difference in a/f requiring a larger main jet in that in higher elevations/temperatures the stock 145 is the correct main jet for that intake...but not for lower elevations and colder temperatures...and it is a a power increase when jetted correctly...if you go from correct jetting with the snorkel to lean w/o it you loose power...the power loss/gain difference is dictated by conditions not the lack of increase in air flow...

We sell fuel kits that hold prime longer and some come with bulb primers...all of our fuel kits make it easier to install a bulb primer if want to get your own...and still provide the trouble shooting benefits as well as a more efficient fuel delivery...

The high volume relocation kits (available but not currently on website) hold prime a long time to start with...we developed this kit to specifically to get the fuel pump away from the heat source that causes vapor locking and pre-mature pump failure and in the process killed two birds with one stone as this kit holds prime way way longer than the normal fuel delivery systems...electric fuel pumps not with standing...

Electric fuel pumps have their own set of problems to deal with and are a safety hazard...they can be used with good effect as primers when set up as a booster pump on a momentary switch which requires the switch to be manually held in the ON position to operate...

Our fuel pump relocation mounting brackets make installing an electric pump easy as they are pre-drilled to fit the high volume pump, stock pump, and the Mr. Gasket 3 psi pump...we will sell bracket and fuel line for a diy-electric primer install but no tech support and no fuel pump or wiring...at this time ALL electric pump installs are strictly DIY...

The high volume pump will always pump more gas to carb faster (a little more than twice as fast) than a stock pump when carb bowl is not primed regardless of where you mount them..and come with bulb primers to make priming a completely empty system a simple matter of reaching behind the passenger seat and giving a couple of squeezes...the bulb primers are cheap and easy...that is why I like them...but the electric primers are awesome...

Bottom line is endless cranking and hard starts can be eliminated with a combination of correct pilot jet a fully primed carb...simple as that...

The question is which route is best for any given rhino owner...and we do try real hard to have packages for all budgets and needs...

The relocation kit is the most expensive one we sell it's $175 plus $10 s&h
Ok, I ordered the intake kit and the fuel pump kit just now....order # 1390. Not worried about fuel pump heat as I live and use the Rhino on the Oregon coast. I live at sea level more or less and the motor is stock accept for a cdi... do you have specs for the best jetting when this comes to take the guess work out of jetting. Thanks for all your help. I did the intake block off and eliminated the tube for now. I would say its 20% quieter. now if I can figure out how to reduce noise from the seat to bed area... I would really like to get my hands on those I shocks for sale but it sounds like he has a waiting list...bummer!
Some one in a old post said that they bought a pool noodle for a buck from wal mart and stuffed it behind the seats. I figured what the hell, pretty cheap so i did it. It works pretty well for the dollar investment, cuts the dust down and does lower the sound level a bit. All you gotta do is choose the color!
 
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