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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have 30 miles on our Rhino, and I'm tired of listening to the muffler bang on that horizontal piece right above it. The dealer tie wrapped a piece of rubber to the horizontal piece and that 'fix' lasted about 5 minutes. I've noticed some other Rhinos with a muffler that's close to the frame, but nobody seems to know about (or worry about) it hitting. It this a common issue, or did I just get one with a goofy exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My 07' SE does the same thing. I was told to bend the muffler down but I would like to hear some other idea's first.
I've done some bending, but that seems wrong somehow. I can push it down to gain about an inch of clearance, but somewhere during the ride it relocates itself back to 'normal' and starts to hit the frame again.

Anyone notice how much slop there is in the system AFTER the header pipes? I mean, that thing moves a BUNCH!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a red 07 and dont have this problem, is the SE different? If so can you not loosen it at the head/hangers and adjust it with out using force?
Mine's pretty loose back there already. I can push down on the tail pipe and move the muffler around a LOT! How far does yours move? The connector where the muffler and pipe assembly joins the head pipe is just a slip fit, so maybe I need to focus on that part of the exhaust instead of the area where it's hitting the frame.

P.S. Pretty sure the SE has the same exhaust as the rest of 'em.
 

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I am pretty sure if you adjust the slip fit at the head pipe it will raise the tail end up. Check it out and let us know.
 

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The reason for the slop in the pipes is because the engine moves 1 inch fore and aft and 1 1/2 inches side to side while running. Rigid pipes would last about 1 hour. So when you go to buy duals etc keep that in mind. The headers may be too short.
 

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exaust rattle

you'll notice that the clamp on the drivers side of the exaust loop tightens up only soo far and then stops because its length is too long, I cut the clamp shorter in length and rewelded it making it about 5/16" shorter which allowed me to tighten the pipes tighter which stops some of the rattle, the front muffler mount should be relocated to the back of the muffler which is what i did and it stopped the hitting of the frame, either way it takes a welder and a grinder and a little elbow grease...cameron.
 

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I noticed the clamp is too long too, when I installed my KMS header. I thought about your route for a second and decided to slide some shim stock under the clamp. I tried cutting up a pop can, but it was taking way too many stacked in there. I then cut a piece of that plumbers bracket stuff. I can't remember the name. It is flexible metal strap with a bunch of holes. I am sure you all know what I am talking about. I slid a piece of that in there and it works like a charm. I didn't notice a problem with the stock head pipe though. I think the KMS is a little loose.
 
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