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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why do the wheels camber in on the front suspension of long travel?
 

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We were just discussing this today. You want negative camber in the front and back with almost any high performance vehicle! Imagine the front outside wheel going into a corner......... As the suspension pre-loads, the wheel/ tire is going to flatten out on it's contact patch. Kind of hard to explain, but I hope you get my "drift"

Does anyone know any camber specs for any of the kits on the market? Mr.Offroads RM kit looks to have roughly 3 degrees, while my SoCal kit looks like 2 ish.....................



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have an idea of what you are saying.
 

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Supp Fergie! Mine do the same Either it's intended for racing or something, but I notice if I lift my rhino by a jack or preload, it goes away. Maybe its a happy median for the sake of all the travel it offers, and maybe it changes through it's cycle as the upper arms in front are shorter than the lowers, so that means somethings gotta give at certain heigth of cycle. Could also have something to do with when rhinos rail turns . Maybe it works wonders where the outside wheel is pretty straight instead of positive cambered as your racing around a turn, (for best traction). I'm afraid to wear out my tires in the street when I make mine street legal!
 

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Brian did a great job of explaining it... most kits put it in there to give the Rhino better turning ability.

BUT, I would check with your manufacturer and ask whether or not there is camber (positive or negative) on your Rhino. Because its possible your spindle may be bent and that is why you are seeing camber on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brian did a great job of explaining it... most kits put it in there to give the Rhino better turning ability.

BUT, I would check with your manufacturer and ask whether or not there is camber (positive or negative) on your Rhino. Because its possible your spindle may be bent and that is why you are seeing camber on it.
Well, I have a new left spindle on so I think it's suppose to be that way. Seems like many of the long travel kits are setup this way.
 

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can you take a direct shot from the front of your Rhino... I was at the AZ Sand Show and I remember looking at the Fabtech Rhino there... I would just like to compare it to the one I saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
can you take a direct shot from the front of your Rhino... I was at the AZ Sand Show and I remember looking at the Fabtech Rhino there... I would just like to compare it to the one I saw.
 

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ok

so what number is good my upper arms are adjustable. do you want neg. or pos. ? im know alot about this kind of stuff for circle track racing but not for rhinos


thanks
 

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We were just discussing this today. You want negative camber in the front and back with almost any high performance vehicle! Imagine the front outside wheel going into a corner......... As the suspension pre-loads, the wheel/ tire is going to flatten out on it's contact patch. Kind of hard to explain, but I hope you get my "drift"

Does anyone know any camber specs for any of the kits on the market? Mr.Offroads RM kit looks to have roughly 3 degrees, while my SoCal kit looks like 2 ish.....................
this is really close but ideally you want a camber change of 3 degress so at full droop it has positive camber and at full compression it has negative camber this is so as the car leans in a corner the tires hold full foot print on the ground for a better bite. the bad part is with a standard bolt on kit you cant really correct any geometry.
 
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