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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am doing a top end and am upgrading to a 686 11:1 cp piston. Is the raptor stage 2 cam a good choice? I have a cdi, intake, fuel pump, and sheave.

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the raptor stage 2 is for more in the high rpm range where the stage 1 raptor is across the board.

I havent ran either so hopefully someone will chime in tha has :) I'm interested also
 

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Loved the stage 2. Seemed to be a great overall cam. Good gains everywhere and really shined at high rpm. High being 7200-7400 peak power rpm.
 

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cdi

I would be worried more about the total advance in your cdi with 11-1 piston on pump gas.....definately run aftermarket head bolts and a good gasket,stock head bolts are total junk.........
 

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I have the stage 1 raptor cam right now and it runs good. Now that I am using the MSD FI with 3D mapping I want to try the stage 2.
 

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im stage 3 and have great power the whole range...SMOKN THEM RZRS..installed stage 2 with a 686 in my buddys 660 with springs and port work and its a screamer with stock exhaust and stock intake
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah Camshaw, I was worried about the pump gas issue with the high compression piston but Steve at Benchmark Performance told me I would have no issues.

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Yeah Camshaw, I was worried about the pump gas issue with the high compression piston but Steve at Benchmark Performance told me I would have no issues.

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not to sound like a punk but that is wrong....you will have issues when things are hot unless you have thermal coatings throughout the topend which you probably don't...Ive had 2 with the same piston and both of them knocked on pump gas 91 octane fuel from california out in the sand when the ambiant temp got above 87degrees or so...it will knock even more so if you're piston is in the hole as this elliminates the quench area in the chamber causing premature detination....now if you only ride the hardpack you might get away with it because the sand works them a whole lot more and heats them up fast,or if you can get higher octane from another state as california fuel is known to loose its octane within a month and is crap fuel from birth, you need to retard the timing down trust me unless you drive like an old lady then you'll be fine...........you cant tell a damn difference while driving it with the timing lower,or on a dyno,but out in the dunes the lack of timing equals lack of detonation............most cdi's advance the timing upto 42-44 degress total advance which is f'n nuts, I mean f'n nuts....no wonder everybody has head gasket issues on these damn things along with the factory stretching head bolts........yikes.........found out the hard way on those..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That would have been nice to know when I ordered it Camshaw. I specifically asked that question when ordering and was told it would be no problem. So far my dealings with benchmark have been very poor.

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cdi and timing and 11-1 piston experience

(to determine this) I machined on my lathe a degree wheel to mount to the hub off the side of the motor where that fan use to mount,indexed a dial indicator through the spark plug hole, located actual top dead center and marked the side cover on the engine in relation to the degree wheel, put on a timing light and reved it up and watched how much advance I had....the stock replacement dynatek $150 cdi topped out at 43-44degrees.................yikes...

so to answer the ?......I had to buy the programable cdi from dynatek,they are completely programable and can store 4 timing curves....I put it on the #3 curve which pulls the timing down to 33 degree's total and that seemed to work fine,ten degrees of timing is a shitload on any motor.........plus it made no difference on the dynojet chassis quad dyno I was using in peak power.....

I would buy that cdi,as they are local guys with a good reputation and aren't a pain in the ass to deal with like the overpriced MSD products.......thats my two sense......you can chance it, but if you dune with us in glamis you'll discover the same things I did.....my 660 with a 11-1 in october on 91 octane would ping like a chinese wedding.......yikes...
 

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(the stock replacement dynatek $150 cdi topped out at 43-44degrees.................yikes...)
Great info. Do you happen to know how much advance the Hunterworks Tri-Fire CDI has?
 

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I have the stage 1 raptor cam right now and it runs good. Now that I am using the MSD FI with 3D mapping I want to try the stage 2.
Steve, I will re-tune the MSD on the dyno for you if you would like to see the gains from the cam change. Hit me up when you are ready.

How do you retard the timing?
MSD 4217 CDI, it is the only ignition we use on a Rhino 660/686. Having the ability to remove timing in the higher RPM's is key to keeping a motor reliable in a Rhino.

Nate
Alba Racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I also had a ported head for the rhino but sold it based on Benchmarks recommendation. They said the ported head will make my lower end unreliable.


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I have the stage 1 raptor cam right now and it runs good. Now that I am using the MSD FI with 3D mapping I want to try the stage 2.
Steve, I will re-tune the MSD on the dyno for you if you would like to see the gains from the cam change. Hit me up when you are ready.

How do you retard the timing?
MSD 4217 CDI, it is the only ignition we use on a Rhino 660/686. Having the ability to remove timing in the higher RPM's is key to keeping a motor reliable in a Rhino.

Nate
Alba Racing

I'll give you a call next week. Actually I want to try your bored throttle body along with the larger cam. HAHAHA!!!! By the way, how's the new location working out for you guys?
 

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I also had a ported head for the rhino but sold it based on Benchmarks recommendation. They said the ported head will make my lower end unreliable.


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what!...........but then they recommended a 11-1 piston and hot rod camshaft!!!.......??
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pretty much. I said I wanted it reliable but didn't want to do anything to the lower end.

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