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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody, thanks for reading this post in advance. I am new to the Rhino family and new to this forum as well... but I am in desperate need of some help and by what I see on this forum, lots of help goes around here.
I just recently bought a 2004 Rhino 660. Has 3500 and 400 miles on it. I mean, for the miles and the hours, it's in great shape. But there is only one problem with it. It seems that you have to rev it up a little bit before you get it to move. Now, I have read a lot lately and for what I have gathered is that I might benefit from replacing the clutch... my question is the following. Should I get a stock one? or should I get an improved clutch? I don't do dunes.. but I do a lot of hunting. So I need it to respond and be able to have some torque.

Thank you again and hope to hear from you soon.
CR
 

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Stock, check eBay and search clutch block. If rest of clutch is in good shape you can save money by replacing clutch shoes only.
 

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yup sounds like wet clutch. gives James from JBS a call he ahas everything you need need at the best prices and by far best customer service.

his number is in my signature. since you are upgrading your clutch, get one of his sheaves! you will NOT be disappointed and it will be the best mod for the money you'll do!
 

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yep freak...we have been talking about the wet clutch alot... read the active post...or you have...Yeah i just went through this..it was easy...and it works like new now...i dont think james has the clutch blocks ( shoes ) they are 98 on ebay from walt..james has everything else...you will need the inner nut,gasket,and oil seal....3,500 is great ....but you might want to do the 1 way bearing wile you are in there....if your clutch drum is ok?...looks like a brake drum....it will be around 200 if you do the work...the drum added 200 more for me...my blocks were metal and the drum was really deep groves...and drain the oil before starting and refill with yamalub when done
 

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yup sounds like wet clutch. gives James from JBS a call he ahas everything you need need at the best prices and by far best customer service.

his number is in my signature. since you are upgrading your clutch, get one of his sheaves! you will NOT be disappointed and it will be the best mod for the money you'll do!
X2! Just as well pick up the hot rod sheave while your at it, you wont regret it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey guys, thank you so much for your input... I took my Rhino to UTV inc. The guy at the very beginning told me "I know it's going to be your clutch",, asked him how much, he said $350 plus a couple hours of labor... Anyway, I gave him the ok. I just want to get my Rhino to run like it new again.
The same guy called me again a few minutes later, and said that my drum was bad and that he couldn't install the new clutch kit without this drum. Anyway, this put my bill at $980. I feel like I"m getting ripped off. Now, my Rhino feels EXACTLY the same as when I brought it in. He thinks now that is the wet clutch (the clutch inside the engine) but they don't do that type of work. Very upset. I went to this place and was promised this will take care of the problem and be done with it. Now, I'm stock with a big bill and the same Rhino. :-( please give me some advice here
 

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I thought i already did?
 

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I would be pissed off! Didnt they tear into the wet clutch in the beginning?
 

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Ok freak...new advice

if it were me?....I would tell them...to go piss up a rope!...you pay someone to fix something...if it an't fixed?....dont pay...tell them to take off any parts they put on...give me my old parts...your shop is eating the labor charge...and i'm going elswere...to a shop ..that does work on a wet clutch...i've been a gear head my whole life..that wet clutch job was easy...if i had the parts and did not have to order any...i could do it in 30 min....45 if you watch...1 hour if you ask lots of questions...1 1/2 if you help lol...do the work your self....and 400 in parts...( clutch blocks 100,new drum 200, 1 way 50,seal and gaskit 20,neddle bearing 20) real easy..drain oil first..and new oil and filter 20
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I agree with you guys. I am going to go over there Monday. They still have my Rhino there. I'm going to tell them exactly that. Take your new parts and give me back my old parts. You know what sucks ever worst?,,, While I was there, another guy came in and had the same problem and the same guy who was "helping me" told him exactly the same thing. I had a chance to run outside and tell him to take it somewhere else though. The hell with this place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How can I find the owner's info for UTV inc.? I am going to file a formal complaint with the owner and the AG's office and make sure they don't do this to anybody else.
 

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Hey guys, thank you so much for your input... I took my Rhino to UTV inc. The guy at the very beginning told me "I know it's going to be your clutch",, asked him how much, he said $350 plus a couple hours of labor... Anyway, I gave him the ok. I just want to get my Rhino to run like it new again.
The same guy called me again a few minutes later, and said that my drum was bad and that he couldn't install the new clutch kit without this drum. Anyway, this put my bill at $980. I feel like I"m getting ripped off. Now, my Rhino feels EXACTLY the same as when I brought it in. He thinks now that is the wet clutch (the clutch inside the engine) but they don't do that type of work. Very upset. I went to this place and was promised this will take care of the problem and be done with it. Now, I'm stock with a big bill and the same Rhino. :-( please give me some advice here

Your story doesn't make sense. There is only a wet clutch on the rhino. Even if you are making the mistake of calling the primary CVT sheeve kit a clutch, I don't understand why they would say you need a wet clutch drum, charge you for it, and then not do it, saying they don't do that type of work. Am I missing something?
 

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Hey guys, thank you so much for your input... I took my Rhino to UTV inc. The guy at the very beginning told me "I know it's going to be your clutch",, asked him how much, he said $350 plus a couple hours of labor... Anyway, I gave him the ok. I just want to get my Rhino to run like it new again.
The same guy called me again a few minutes later, and said that my drum was bad and that he couldn't install the new clutch kit without this drum. Anyway, this put my bill at $980. I feel like I"m getting ripped off. Now, my Rhino feels EXACTLY the same as when I brought it in. He thinks now that is the wet clutch (the clutch inside the engine) but they don't do that type of work. Very upset. I went to this place and was promised this will take care of the problem and be done with it. Now, I'm stock with a big bill and the same Rhino. :-( please give me some advice here

Your story doesn't make sense. There is only a wet clutch on the rhino. Even if you are making the mistake of calling the primary CVT sheeve kit a clutch, I don't understand why they would say you need a wet clutch drum, charge you for it, and then not do it, saying they don't do that type of work. Am I missing something?
X2, If you would explain it a little better to get story straight.
 

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How can I find the owner's info for UTV inc.? I am going to file a formal complaint with the owner and the AG's office and make sure they don't do this to anybody else.

Look in the vendors section for UTV Inc. Johnny is the owner, and Nick is his right hand man. I can't believe they would allow something like this to happen. There's got to be more to the story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The guy told me first that all I would need would be a clutch kit. But then he says there is a clutch inside the engine that is "fried". that's why my Rhino revs up before it moves. He described this as a clutch behind the clutch? any idea? I am looking at the service manual now to see what he is talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, the only thing I can see in the service manual book is the clutch housing and the one-way clutch bearing that he could possibly be speaking about. These parts are in the engine and are part of the clutch, but not part of the clutching kit. I am sorry guys, I am new to the Rhino family and new to this UTV stuff. I wish I knew all the terms to tell you exactly what it is. But I am here with this book trying to get the right words out. When I go there Monday, I will get better details.
I think they can tell that I am new to this Rhino stuff, and that's why they want to stick it to me... But I wasn't born yesterday. I can tell when something is not working properly....and when its fixed... and this thing is doing exactly the same exact thing.
 

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they are asking about your story bow...because you are new to rhinos...and dont know about them or how to work on them...but most important is the termonolagy?....the rhino has ...3 clutches....two are like a snowmoble cvt...and a scooter with cvt trans,...clutches....the primary powered by engine...and the secondary...and they are conected with the drive belt...the primary has the weights and as it spins faster forces the belt to ride higher on the two shevs...changing your gear...the secondary has a big spring...the faster the belt spins it...the seconday clutch opens up...and the belt drops down lower in the shevs and also chages your gearing...and they do this at the same time...one one the belt rids up higher..the other the belt drops down in....these two cluthes dont really ever go bad?...but peaple will change the weights on the primary or the size spring on the secondary...to change how the drive belt travels on the shevs...to change gearing/ingagement times....the wet clutch is in side the engine behind a cover...looks like a minibike clutch....with a drum and shoes inside that as rpms raise from idle...will make the shoes inside the drum to grab...this is on the shaft that the primary clutch is on...so if the wet clutch is slipping?...you have to really reve the engine to get it moveing...after that it seams fine..untill you stop again..and start the process all over again....i hope this will help with some of the termonology?...inside your wet clutch..the shoes that spin with rpm and make contact with the inside of drum are like brake shoes...mine where down to metal...so it sliped...so remember 3 clutches....wet,primary,secondary..the belt goes between primary and secondary
 

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No worries on being new! I have never bought from UTV inc, not saying i wouldnt, but i feel it is very important that no bad publicity gets out before all the details are laid out.
 

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good explanation beatblack..well done..ive been trying to do as much as possible myself to my rhino..its the only way to learn it..most of its not hard just time consuming
 
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