HARD START WHEN COLD
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Joined
·
331 Posts
Joined
·
233 Posts
Thanks, read thru them all and will try some but I think that the spark, air/fuel and jetting might be the best bet. I have no idea what jet is in it or what should be. Dont they make a dial a jet for the rhino? Anyway thanks for the imput.
Joined
·
1,868 Posts
i had the same issues with a BRP cdi, with stock carb. I got a dynatek, and it fires right up.. also runing an HSR Mikuni carb, with electic fuel pump now, and don't even need the choke. it fires on the 1st revolution almost every time.. when i was in barstow at 35 degrees in the moring.. i couldn't get the damn thing to start for the life of me (with BRP cdi). I have also heard from a slew of other people they have hard start issues with that thing.
but they are a thing of the past with a dynatek cdi..plus the electric fuel pump makes sure there is fuel ready to be sucked in when you crank it. the stock fuel pump is based on vacuum, so it only starts working once the engine starts cranking. If it has been sitting a while,, chances are, the fuel has drained back into the tank, while you are doing all that cranking, the carb isn't seeing much fuel until it gets pumped all the way in.. stock fuel filters don't flow worth a crap either. Rhinocrap told me to do the "blow" test.. and its very restrictive compared to a regular aftermarket unit.
so ditch the BRP cdi, and put in a new fuel filter... and you should be fine.
but they are a thing of the past with a dynatek cdi..plus the electric fuel pump makes sure there is fuel ready to be sucked in when you crank it. the stock fuel pump is based on vacuum, so it only starts working once the engine starts cranking. If it has been sitting a while,, chances are, the fuel has drained back into the tank, while you are doing all that cranking, the carb isn't seeing much fuel until it gets pumped all the way in.. stock fuel filters don't flow worth a crap either. Rhinocrap told me to do the "blow" test.. and its very restrictive compared to a regular aftermarket unit.
so ditch the BRP cdi, and put in a new fuel filter... and you should be fine.
Joined
·
3,276 Posts
Yeah that .....Rhino Crap said:
If you have a BRP CDI .... try putting the stock one back in .... if that fixes the problem you know it was the CDI ... if not you can start checking other things ..... if it is the BRP CDI then you may be able to exchange it or like Greg said .... get a Dynatek .... I have not heard any complaints about cold starting issues .....
The BRP is real sensitive to low battery power .... hook up some jumper cables and see if that works ......
Joined
·
233 Posts
Thanks for all the input, I think that it is more of a fuel issue than electrical. I had it out hunting over the weekend and in the mornings (low 40's) 3-4-5 times before it would start but after that it would start right up (before I let go of the key). Also had a little back fire going on when I ran it really hard. I just think it doenst like the cold, but thanks again for all the input.
P.S. Dont know what my CDI box is, got it off e-bay and it came in a silver box with no markings but a number.
P.S. Dont know what my CDI box is, got it off e-bay and it came in a silver box with no markings but a number.
Joined
·
3,276 Posts
It is normal for it to backfire after a long run with the throttle all the way down ....
It sure sounds like a CDI issue to me ..... Do you still have the stock CDI? Put it back in and see if that cures the problem .... if it does go buy a Dynatek CDI ....
It sure sounds like a CDI issue to me ..... Do you still have the stock CDI? Put it back in and see if that cures the problem .... if it does go buy a Dynatek CDI ....
Joined
·
4,349 Posts
Bowhunter, it could be a lot of different issues...
but one strong one could be the CDI going bad... if its a ProComm CDI (which are sold by many different companies then you might just have a CDI issue there to deal with.
Could be a carb and jetting issue as well, recently after my Rhino was jetted improperly I noticed it became a lot harder to start.
One last bit of advice, is dont TURN THE KEY TO START IMMEDIATELY. If you have a digital dash wait until your speedometer registers ZERO then try starting it. For some reason your Rhino will start faster if you do that. I am sure if SteveS was here he could give us the exact reason why...
Hope that info helps
but one strong one could be the CDI going bad... if its a ProComm CDI (which are sold by many different companies then you might just have a CDI issue there to deal with.
Could be a carb and jetting issue as well, recently after my Rhino was jetted improperly I noticed it became a lot harder to start.
One last bit of advice, is dont TURN THE KEY TO START IMMEDIATELY. If you have a digital dash wait until your speedometer registers ZERO then try starting it. For some reason your Rhino will start faster if you do that. I am sure if SteveS was here he could give us the exact reason why...
Hope that info helps
Joined
·
233 Posts
Ya, I think that the CDI is a Procomm (same silver box as seen on e-bay). Anyway I am going to play with it this weekend and change out the box to stock and see what happens. What jet with no mods should I run from the dunes to the desert?
Thanks,
Bow
Thanks,
Bow
Joined
·
233 Posts
OK finally changed out the CDI box after running it yesterday and it start right up. So I let it sit overnight and just went out into the garage and it started right up. The CDI in question is a Procomm.
So is the Dynatek the CDI box of choice? Who's gotem? Best price?
So is the Dynatek the CDI box of choice? Who's gotem? Best price?
We stock the Hunterworks CDI. It is not the cheapest, just the best. Hunterworks has a 2 year guarantee, we are upping that to lifetime for the original owner. The following as a tech article by Todd from Hunterworks.
How do you choose which CDI for your Rhino? Simple, choose Hunterworks.
Seriously, ours is the best out there right now and I am not saying that because we sell it, it is because it is true.
Please don't believe what you read when they say you will get 55mph out our your Rhino just by adding their box, it is simply not true. The average is 48mph but higher speeds can be attained by engine and clutch mods. I have had my Rhino at 64mph and my Prowler at 55mph.
99% of all aftermarket CDI's are made by one company and that company is Procomm. They will sell their CDI to anyone and let them put their sticker on it. Ours is NOT made by Procomm.
Issues with the those boxes are:
Hard starting
Too high percentage of failures
Timing curves are not consistant from one box to another
The one we tested actually lost HP
Low speed reverse limiter
Ours is just the opposite:
Easy starting
No failures thus far
Consistant timing curves
Dyno proven HP gain from low end to high end
50% higher spark energy
No reverse limiter
Please don't buy a CDI on price alone, buy from a company you are comfortable with and has proven they will stand behind everything they sell no matter what. A company who owns the vehicles, test the vehicles and every product they sell before they sell it.
Todd
As always, use rhinoforums as a coupon code at checkout and get 10% off.
How do you choose which CDI for your Rhino? Simple, choose Hunterworks.
Seriously, ours is the best out there right now and I am not saying that because we sell it, it is because it is true.
Please don't believe what you read when they say you will get 55mph out our your Rhino just by adding their box, it is simply not true. The average is 48mph but higher speeds can be attained by engine and clutch mods. I have had my Rhino at 64mph and my Prowler at 55mph.
99% of all aftermarket CDI's are made by one company and that company is Procomm. They will sell their CDI to anyone and let them put their sticker on it. Ours is NOT made by Procomm.
Issues with the those boxes are:
Hard starting
Too high percentage of failures
Timing curves are not consistant from one box to another
The one we tested actually lost HP
Low speed reverse limiter
Ours is just the opposite:
Easy starting
No failures thus far
Consistant timing curves
Dyno proven HP gain from low end to high end
50% higher spark energy
No reverse limiter
Please don't buy a CDI on price alone, buy from a company you are comfortable with and has proven they will stand behind everything they sell no matter what. A company who owns the vehicles, test the vehicles and every product they sell before they sell it.
Todd
As always, use rhinoforums as a coupon code at checkout and get 10% off.
Yes it is, but it has a hunterworks curve in it.
Joined
·
2,102 Posts
My BRP came in a silver box...I hate it! But it was the pretty much the only CDI out when I bought it. I'm thinking about getting a new one too.
Mine has some of the same issues as yours.
Joined
·
2,102 Posts
What's the difference?
Joined
·
3,276 Posts
Yeah some of the BRP Stage 1 CDI's have cold starting issues.......
I got the new BRP Stage 2 and it works great. I have heard some people state that it is a Dynatek but I am not sure......
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
