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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am seeing a couple different shifter mods, lenghten the arm on the shifter, lower the 3 shifter mounting bolt holes. The secondary does not move at all at idle with the STM setup so the trans does not want to do in gear without a little throttle input. High range is harder to hit between N and L. Let a buddy drive and he could not even get H. He ground the tranny a couple times and had not luck, and he isnt stupid.

It was raining that day and pretty muddy and my check engine light pops on. Limp home with E showing on the gear selector.

I pulled the cover and wiggled the 3 trans selector wire and all seemed tight. Did not appear to lower power but I dont like my light being on.

I searched and it looks like I need to pull each off individually and clean and reinstall with dielectric grease. Then if that does not work then pull each switch and make sure it is moving freely. If that doesnt work I have a trans issue...

So a couple questions,

Which shifter mod works the best, and why?
Anything else to look for with my "E" limp home light?
 

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As far as hard shifting goes, definitely change the one way bearings as mentioned here on the forum. Grease them (I suggest) only with the Kluber Isoflex grease. Here's the cheapest I've found it. Kluber Isoflex Topas NB 52** Snowmobile Grease

the RYR instructions suggest lowring the shifter 1". You do need to do this UNLESS you mod it like I did. Cut off the original "dog leg shaped" arm from the Rhino shifter. Just cut the arm off. Then weld a longer piece of metal on top of what's left of the "dog shaped" arm. This offsets the new arm over a bit to be more in-line with the shifter on the trans. By installing the longer arm you can leave the Rhino shifter installed in it's original location. The combination of the lower arm and the shifter riding higher, lets you get all gears including Park and Low. As a added bonus I think this gives a bit more leverage for a bit easier shifting. I also think a big help to the easier shifting is I use 85-90w synthetic lube in the trans. NOT 75-140w. Sustained high speeds made the 75-140 build too much pressure causing oil to spew out the trans vent. Since changing to 85-90 it's easier to shift and no more oil spewing out.

Here's some shifter pics. I'm sorry I don't recall how long I made the longer arm.


Untitled by deanhoover, on Flickr


Untitled by deanhoover, on Flickr

IMHO I don't think the shifter arm and tranny arm need to be the same length. But I do think they need to be parrallel (in the neutral position) to work the best.

As far as the E on your dash, I think you're on the right track that the indicator switches are dirty or malfunctioning. Hit up "linvlo", he can help you more there.


Dean
 

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Or crap, DUH!!! Ok, I'm an idiot and didn't pay attention. I do think the 85-90w synthetic will help though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I do not have any options with the one way bearnings..

You have a link to what oil has worked (brand)? I would like to try that first. It appears they added the 1" of length on the shifter lever and I can get L and P but I was hoping for overall easier selection of gears...

If I am not carefull it will grab H and I will take off then it will pop out at 20 mph and grind till you are stopped then you have to delicatley put it back in and hope you have it in the middle of the H and it doesnt pop out. I guess this is my complaint, and watching the new guy try while I was in the back seat with a beer in my hand reminded me how picky the shifter is..


Another time I drove up to a drop off at a gravel pit to roll the lip down on top, and I had a heck of a time getting it into reverse (out of L), each time the throttle had to be blipped, pushing me closer to going over the drop off... You guys have these issues at all?

Or crap, DUH!!! Ok, I'm an idiot and didn't pay attention. I do think the 85-90w synthetic will help though.
 

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Amsoil chaincase oil is real good and recommended. A lot easier to get is (Shhhhhhhh) Wal-Mart synthetic 85-90w gear lube.

I've also found it in Castro and Lucas. I think the oil is a big help.

Even with the oil and all other things, blipping the throttle some is not unusual.

On mine for H gear I've found there's kinda like two indentions. Going from N to H I use the first indention. If I go to the second one it will tend to pop out. I really don't think this is all that unusual.
 

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Yes I do not have any options with the one way bearnings..

You have a link to what oil has worked (brand)? I would like to try that first. It appears they added the 1" of length on the shifter lever and I can get L and P but I was hoping for overall easier selection of gears...

If I am not carefull it will grab H and I will take off then it will pop out at 20 mph and grind till you are stopped then you have to delicatley put it back in and hope you have it in the middle of the H and it doesnt pop out. I guess this is my complaint, and watching the new guy try while I was in the back seat with a beer in my hand reminded me how picky the shifter is..


Another time I drove up to a drop off at a gravel pit to roll the lip down on top, and I had a heck of a time getting it into reverse (out of L), each time the throttle had to be blipped, pushing me closer to going over the drop off... You guys have these issues at all?

Or crap, DUH!!! Ok, I'm an idiot and didn't pay attention. I do think the 85-90w synthetic will help though.
out in glamis I had some of these issues now. Mine would pop outta high at about 15 to 20mph. and when shifting through the gears it just seamed to pass right through H way to easily. After leting the motor and belt cool down it seemed to be better but my top speed in H was cut down to about 45mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Getting the oil today. All I can find is 75-90w (not 85-90w) at Oreillys Mobil 1 and royal purple.

Amsoil chaincase oil is real good and recommended. A lot easier to get is (Shhhhhhhh) Wal-Mart synthetic 85-90w gear lube.

I've also found it in Castro and Lucas. I think the oil is a big help.

Even with the oil and all other things, blipping the throttle some is not unusual.

On mine for H gear I've found there's kinda like two indentions. Going from N to H I use the first indention. If I go to the second one it will tend to pop out. I really don't think this is all that unusual.
 

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Definately clock the shift lever accordingly. I not only extended the arm under the shifter but bent it out towards the driver side to better line it up with the shift lever. I run the cvtech and it too is stationary at idle so I usually have to gas it a bit to pop it in gear. I'll get a pic for you later.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Castrol was $10 a quart, Royal purple was $20.

I picked up the Castrol, its def cheaper than the BRP chaincase oil for $11.99 for 355 ml..

Also picked up a Wix 57145 oil filter for $6.99. A service on this is as much as my diesel truck!.. Oil was $50 for a gallon.. full synthetic BRP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Dean, this made a huge difference. At a 30 degree start up it still shifts decent. Everyone should go to 75-90 synthetic works great.

Anybody know what the stock oil weight was?
 

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Glad it's working for you. Mine shifts really well. Always gonna need to blip the throttle but get the timing right (shift when the rpm's are coming down almost at idle) and it shifts like butter.
 
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