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Discussion Starter #1
Today we took our first ride with some friends up the mountain to see if I had any bugs in my 05 660. Lemme give you a list of what's in it, and maybe this will help.

05 660 Rhino
Moose Racing CDI box
Dynatech jet kit
Moose Racing Clutch Kit
27" Mud Lite tires


About half way up the mountain this morning, we realized the temp light came on so we pulled over. Coolant was almost boiling. I noticed the fan was not on. Had to make a quick trail fix, so yanked the hot wire from my cd player and cut the connector off the fan and wired the fan straight to the battery. No more overheat and the fan works fine.

Ride for a few hours and a buddy gets stuck on his 06 Foreman 500, so naturally I pull up to him (Rhino didn't get stuck ANYWHERE) and hook him up to my 4k lb Warn winch. As I am in reverse pulling, something gave up and made this AWFUL grinding noise in the rear. We let up and I finally got it to back on up and turn around. Once I hit hi gear again and moved about 10 ft. the noises stopped and it didn't do that ever again during the ride in forward or reverse. What could have happened?

Last issue is even worse. Half way back, we turned a corner, it sputtered and lost power and died. Pulled the spark plug and it looked good. (We didn't sink it or get in mud half way up the tires) Air filter was ok. Noticed the little fuel filter behind the pass. seat was empty. Blew on it and it wasn't plugged.

Last week I installed gauges, including the Equus float in the tank. Tried just using the gasket with the kit to seal it since I had no epoxy sealer but noticed a little gas leakage around the top of the tank today. Is it possible that since the fuel system is vacuum operated it was sucking air and couldn't get fuel? We know it isn't getting fuel, but cannot figure out why. Spins over fine and if you stomp the gas pedal it spins faster and tries to fire. Wound up just pulling it off the mountain.

Sorry for the novel, but we need to figure out what all is up with this thing. Once I get it back running and wire a toggle for the fan I plan to drain the rear end and make sure no metal comes out. Thanks for any advice in advance!
 

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i would also while ur at it add ruttingrhinos fuel line kit to it , helps a ton and u can see ur fuel everwhere,

link in sig
 

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That awful noise is probably your rear brake. Do some searching here, tons of info.

Your other issue sounds like the fuel filter. Replace it to make sure. Sometimes mine are a PITA to re-prime. Sometimes pressurizing the tank will help, running with the choke on, or covering the intake with your hand will help.
 

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Well, to address the fuel problem. I had same issue and it was fixed replacing fuel pick-up and tube with fuel delievery kit from Rutting Rhino.
On a '05 that sounds like you have factory lines, most likely have several air leaks, mine was the pick up tube itself.

Buy the Rutting Rhino kit!

Noise was more than likely the rear brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The rear brake makes that kind of noise? I was spinning the rear wheels in reverse pulling a 4wheeler out and all of a sudden it sounded like the gears in the rear end broke. Started grinding to the point we couldn't hear anything running over the noise. It slowed down and finally stopped and then when in reverse it popped backing up a few times and then didn't do it anymore.

Would the sending unit I put in the tank cause the air leak it if wasn't sealed properly? I know it was leaking just a little gas around it.
 

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The rear brake makes that kind of noise? I was spinning the rear wheels in reverse pulling a 4wheeler out and all of a sudden it sounded like the gears in the rear end broke. Started grinding to the point we couldn't hear anything running over the noise. It slowed down and finally stopped and then when in reverse it popped backing up a few times and then didn't do it anymore.

Would the sending unit I put in the tank cause the air leak it if wasn't sealed properly? I know it was leaking just a little gas around it.
Yes, the rear brake will make you think everything is going to blow up. The rotor warps, normally from someone leaving the parking brake on while driving, and then it sounds horrible because it's on the drive-line.

Your sending unit isn't the problem. Your tank has to breath or it would collapse as the Rhino uses fuel. Try re-priming it before buying a bunch of stuff. Mine had me fooled for a whole weekend. I've seen it on others too. Try running it with the choke on, or use your hand to cover the air intake and play with it till it starts running right. If that doesn't work, then replace the lines- possibly with kit everyone has mentioned.
 

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It's likely that the grinding noise may not the brake rotor itself due to warping or whatever ....possibly is the splines of the rear driveshaft where they slip fit into the coupler on front of the brake rotor assembly are stripping out ....they will do that, then mend themselves and you'll pass it off as a one time thing ...long term is complete failure

Pull your driveshaft to verify if this is the problem ....if so, driveshaft replacement or cv joint upgrade to your existing is in your future....Lance

...sent with TapaTalk...please excuse brevity & no smileys
 

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Nick,

This is a link the the thread in our vendor section for the fuel delivery kit that will eliminate some problems, prevent others, and make detecting and trouble shooting any other problems much easier... Fuel Delivery Kit Forum

The trick of sealing off the intake is a good one as it will produce tremendous vacuum at cranking rpms to pull gas through the system...

HOWEVER... IT IS DANGEROUS...

Make sure you pull the plug wire and ground the spark so the engine can't fire off with your hand on the intake...

Also...even if you are having problems drawing fuel and using one of those tricks and there are more... being able to see the fuel and have lower resistance to drawing fuel both help a lot...

Step to trouble shooting these kinds of problems is to be able to see where fuel is and isn't and know that your filter, p/u adapter, and pick up tube are not the problem...

Also...if you have a problem and you can see it does have gas to the carb you can immediately eliminate fuel delivery as the possible cause...

Yes you can get by w/o it but why let t/s these minor problems that can shut you down on the trail take all weekend to figure out...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I appreciate the plug for your fuel delivery kit, and I may pick it up here shortly. However for now, I need to know what to check first to determine that IS what the problem may be. Once I know 100% what the issue is, I will then take care of it.

I asked if it were possible that the leak from the float install could allow the fuel system to suck air. I am going to seal it regardless, but wondered if anyone else ran into this.

LBR, I just cleaned it and did notice that the rear brake rotor is sitting at an angle instead of straight, and it looks like I can see the splines on the driveshaft meeting the rear end, and they do not look straight. I'll take a pic in a moment and post it, but it does look like one of the two is going to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, the rear brake will make you think everything is going to blow up. The rotor warps, normally from someone leaving the parking brake on while driving, and then it sounds horrible because it's on the drive-line.

Your sending unit isn't the problem. Your tank has to breath or it would collapse as the Rhino uses fuel. Try re-priming it before buying a bunch of stuff. Mine had me fooled for a whole weekend. I've seen it on others too. Try running it with the choke on, or use your hand to cover the air intake and play with it till it starts running right. If that doesn't work, then replace the lines- possibly with kit everyone has mentioned.
It won't start at all. Just turns over. I thought that possibly a huge air leak would not allow the fuel system to pull the right pressure. I am going to seal it either way just so there is no gas leak, but for whatever reason the thing literally just sputtered riding down a flat road, lost power, and died. And has not started back since. Engine sounds healthy, has great spark and a clean air filter. So it has to be a fuel issue.
 

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As bugspray correctly stated that is not the problem...

I can tell from his post he knows what is he talking about and has been through all this stuff before...he even knows the vacuum seal trick which is a damned fast way to prime...

Also...the plug for the fuel kit is the answer to finding out your question about the fuel delivery if you can't verify the delivery how do you know if that is the problem or where the problem is... that is why I made and sell this kit...for exactly this scenario...

If the tank is not vented the system can't pull prime...the vent is an air leak...

What you don't want to leak is fuel out of your sendor...not to be confused with the float in the carb of course...

So once again if you eliminate the pick up tube, pick up tube adapter, fuel filter as a source of the problem and can visually see where gas is and isn't at all times that is a huge step toward solving the problem(s)....
 

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lots of peeps install a lil primer bulb to help start there rhino , even after its been sitting for few months a few pumps and she starts right up ,

also a lil starting fluid u can spray in there to get it started and primed ,
 

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mtgrizzlymn has the ultimate priming solution imo...

He put an electric pump in series with stock vacuum pump and put it on a momentary switch...this way w/o cranking the engine he just pushes the button until it primes...

Then start er right up... :)

This is the ultimate in convenience, reliability, and safety imo...and no I don't sell electric pumps and I don't use one either...

The problem with the electric pump INSTEAD of the vacuum pump is SAFETY is seriously compromised...with mtgrizzlymn's method the electric pump can only operate when the momentary switch is manually held down....very cool... Les is a smart guy... :)

I have used the marine bulb method...don't like it much...it makes it harder for the pump to draw fuel w/o air...

I have found that if you have no other problems it only takes about 10 seconds of cranking to prime if the carb and all the lines are completely empty...

Have that with the double pumper...which I will have in stock this week but imo the ONLY good thing about it is that it primes twice as fast...more trouble than it's worth for most people imo but I carry them now for those who just have to have it...they will be on website soon... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Surprisingly after washing it fired right up.........I am guessing maybe a vent stopped up? No grinding either, but that issue still has me worried.....
 

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Was the motor hot when it would not start before you washed it...???

Also it's difficult to know exactly what you experienced when you heard the noise but there is a characteristic of this cvt to make a very disturbing noise sometimes when the wet clutch disengages and the sheaves turn the belt loose...

So if everything seems normal in forward/revere/ high/low 2wd/4wd/locked now it was probably that...and nothing to worry about...

Another thing you can do is take the cvt cover off and with the vehicle in neutral and the brake on rev it and watch the cvt shift out and visually make sure it runs up/down smoothly on both sheaves and the belt and sheave faces look good...

And one step further would be to remove the primary and degrease the roller tracks and reinstall the rollers with minimal grease...it's a good preventative thing to do even if you don't have a problem now...
 

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Nick, First off WELCOME to the rhino world!

Your grinding noise is the splines on the driveshaft. The little splined coupler is replaceable. You also need to check the mounts for the rear diff. The bolts maybe loose or the mounts are broke. I suggest also adding a rear diff support. It is only supported with 2 bolts. Traillogic and others make a support that adds 2 more mounting bolts.

Do you have a oem Yamaha fuel pump? It maybe going bad on you. THey are crap! I went through 3 oems before adding the Mikuni pump( both generations). Since adding the Mikuni from Wellers I have not had a problem in 3 years.

Another thing to check is the plastic fuel pickup on top of the tank. They crack! Rutting Rhino and others offer a billet pickup fitting. Did you check inside of the tank for debris? ALWAYS carry extra fuel filters with you. Its a common problem on these things.

ONe other thing to keep an eye on is your engine oil level.
 

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This seems to be an issue........ That rubber boot is as far up as it will go. Don't think the gear should be showing.

Oh boy! ....with that angle of the rotor, you won't have any problem finding your issue! ......rearend mounts broke? ...then pull the driveshaft and work your way towards the pinion.....Lance

...sent with TapaTalk...please excuse brevity & no smileys
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No everything was tighr on the rear diff. Brackets not broken or bent. Can someone snap a shot of the way it should look? Had the diff shifted?
 

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No everything was tighr on the rear diff. Brackets not broken or bent. Can someone snap a shot of the way it should look? Had the diff shifted?
Is it angled downward as much as the pic shows or an illusion? ....it should be more in the same plane as the metal piece there ....Lance

...sent with TapaTalk...please excuse brevity & no smileys
 
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