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I want to add a fusebox and clean up the wiring in the battery area.I think I'm gonna just get a marine grade and put it in the glove box.I'm not gonna have a bunch of stuff on it,my radio,front driving lights(both with toggles).I will mount a couple of gauges(water&amp 1st)and my toggles when I purchase a dash plate.Do you think it's necessary to add relays??
I don't think I need anything hot as far as the toggle for the 2 driving lamps just in case I wanna flip the lights on momentarily.Don't need the radio on without the ignition switch on,the lights for the gauges and lighted toggles can come off the headlight switch.
Any ideas or thoughts here? I know there are better fuseboxes ,such as Painless,etc. but I can't really afford that(Momma keeps close tabs on my Rhino spending habits & with X-Mas & taxes,money sucks)
Any wiring diagrams you have would be helpful.I know these issues have been discussed many times on here but I don't have "hours" to spend on here reading!
Thanks in advance!!
 

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Hey Cloud_9...

I searched and didn't get much further than you did.

But I will... I'm going to add a fuse block and a rocker switch with my own LED turn signal set-up so at some point I'll know more than I know now.

I was curious if you came across any additional information.

Gimme a shout if you run into anything...

Thanks, Robert
 

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Painless has exactly what your looking for. Takes all the guess work out of it. Summit and others offer them.
 

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if you have a relay powering the fuse block with switched power then when you hit the key the block will be powered. this is how I did mine. that way if some gets in or out and hits a switch don't have to worry about a dead battery...
 

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Anyone know what the difference between the Painless #70207 and #70217?

Looks like #70217 has 2 relays rather than 1, and are 2 relays necessary say when running 2 sets of Rigid LED's, a stereo and HID replacement headlights.
 

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Thanks for all the answers !

Ordered the Painless part and found their instructions.

I got the BRP tray, separator/isolater and ground block ordered.

Does anyone have (or know of a location of) any pictures that can use as a guide showing where they put things (The fuse block location and examples of how you routed/dressed wires etc).

Wire selection for LEDs < 1 amp should be 16 gauge ? (The whip looks like it uses 16 ga).

Thanks again...
 

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Anyone know what the difference between the Painless #70207 and #70217?

Looks like #70217 has 2 relays rather than 1, and are 2 relays necessary say when running 2 sets of Rigid LED's, a stereo and HID replacement headlights.
Read a little on their site and it looks like the 70217 has all 7 fuses keyed to ignition where the 70207 has 4 keyed and 3 always hot.
 

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mtoma: The 17 uses two 40 amp and all circuits are always hot. The 07 is a 4 "On" 3 "Switched" and a 30 amp relay.
 

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Thanks mang, post up some pic's of yours when you get it wired up. Thats a nice lookin kit.
What all are you going to be running off it?

Have fun.
 

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MTOMA: I just want to the two-batt setup just for reliability/redundancy.

I'll be running a LED whip, turn-signals and a Rugged radio to begin with.

I can't hear with or without a helmet (I've got "Age"), but wear helmets with the helmet set-up and that plays the iPOD if I want to listen to music.

The 12 VDC blender/ice-maker is a potential add-in. {;-)~

Overkill I realize...
 

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SoArk: I realize there are alternate solutions. However, everytime I try to do something for less it costs me more.

...besides, the folks here in SoCal need the business and if we don't give the sponsors some of it we won't have costly solutions. * chuckle *

...and they do more than that. I've called there three times in two days and everytime someone answers the phone is is more than ready to help.

I really have no problem paying a little more to get great customer service.
 

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I have the Painless 70207 mounted on the square tube above the battery box. It fits perfect there. My grounding block is mounted inside of the battery box on the right side. Ill see if I have any pics.
 

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MTOMA: I just want to the two-batt setup just for reliability/redundancy.

I'll be running a LED whip, turn-signals and a Rugged radio to begin with.

I can't hear with or without a helmet (I've got "Age"), but wear helmets with the helmet set-up and that plays the iPOD if I want to listen to music.

The 12 VDC blender/ice-maker is a potential add-in. {;-)~

Overkill I realize...
Robert, what type of turn signals do you have?
 

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SoArk: I realize there are alternate solutions. However, everytime I try to do something for less it costs me more.

...besides, the folks here in SoCal need the business and if we don't give the sponsors some of it we won't have costly solutions. * chuckle *

...and they do more than that. I've called there three times in two days and everytime someone answers the phone is is more than ready to help.

I really have no problem paying a little more to get great customer service.
That's cool. That is just a website I found a long time ago that has some stuff that is hard to find locally. I am just the guy that try's to figure it out himself. Kind of like my gun boot mount.......wouldn't pay the desired price locally so I broke out the welder and got after it. For the price of just the tool bar I had the whole dang thing....boos and all.
I understand supporting the sponsers of this siteandI intend on doing just that ....Hot Rod's sheave is in my future.........
 

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I added a second battery in a steel powercoated battery box between the upper frame rails. I put in an Autozone fuse block and a series of circuit breakers. I power my HID roof lights, stereo, led turn signal/ hazard flashers, side HID search lights, heater and all aux electrics off the second system. I have a blue ocean combiner/pulse charge manager in between the batteries and charge off the stator. OB is correct in that a relay between the battery and fuse block switched off the ignition is a great idea. I choose not to do that as I did not want the key on and the ignition and hour meter running when I wanted to play the radio or have my aux lights on for what ever reason without the engine running. I am extremely pleased with my set up. Infact I had a question about my set up as I was adding an external battery tender for winter and contacted blue Ocean. They have inturn reached out to me and asked for pics and schematic of what I did.. Not sure why but hopefully wil mean something for me(selfishly)

PS: I can also push a button and combine the batteries incase my chassis battery is dead so I can start or run home if I am out and stranded
 

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Expo, does your stock 660 stator have a hard time keeping up with the 2 batteries when you're running everything at night?
 

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Expo: I knew you had a load of goodies on yours.

Sounds like a good solution.

Did you ever put together a schematic and take pictures ?
 
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