Yamaha Rhino Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I’m in the process of getting the ‘07 Rhino ready for winter storage. Got the oil/filter, air filter reoiled etc. Now I’m at the point of greasing the pesky front “U” joints. This year due to a lack of deteriorating eyesight, poor lighting, and a limited number of hands I can’t get the needle tip into the damn zerk. I’ve been successful in the past, but this year it’s kicking my butt! So here’s the question, has anyone ever modified the yoke in front of the zerk to allow the needle tip to be inserted at not so an acute angle? I’m thinking about grinding a small channel in the yoke to allow the needle tip to go onto the zerk with little angular placement. Doesn’t look like this would affect the structural integrity of the joint by a whole lot. Anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
That's just what I did 8 years ago only I ground out enough to allow the grease gun to work. And I have put thousands of miles on since then. The wife dog and myself go for a ride 20 or so miles nearly every day, BTW my rhino never, ever gets put away for the winter and I'm 73 years old. Good luck to you my friend. Dave. I live in NYS, winter can get ppretty brutal here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Can you provide a little more detail as to how you did it? Type of grinding bit, on or off the machine, etc.


That's just what I did 8 years ago only I ground out enough to allow the grease gun to work. And I have put thousands of miles on since then. The wife dog and myself go for a ride 20 or so miles nearly every day, BTW my rhino never, ever gets put away for the winter and I'm 73 years old. Good luck to you my friend. Dave. I live in NYS, winter can get ppretty brutal here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts

Can you provide a little more detail as to how you did it? Type of grinding bit, on or off the machine, etc.
It may seem a little crazy but I put the machine on its side, passenger side down ground a die grinder and one of these.......
Can you provide a little more detail as to how you did it? Type of grinding bit, on or off the machine, etc.
I put my machine on its side, passenger side down and ground it out from the bottom. I used a die grinder and a bit I found in one of my junk drawers. Gonna try to post a picture, but that's a hit or miss thing for me.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
I was just doing that as well. I went ahead and pulled the front diff loose and pulled the driveshaft and greased the splines too. I had the same thoughts about grinding a spot so the grease gun would go in there. It's so close, why didn't they tilt that zert a slight bit more when they made them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I was just doing that as well. I went ahead and pulled the front diff loose and pulled the driveshaft and greased the splines too. I had the same thoughts about grinding a spot so the grease gun would go in there. It's so close, why didn't they tilt that zert a slight bit more when they made them.
is there a more detailed explanation on the removal of the front drive shaft by dropping the front diff? I was hoping for a YT video, but no luck.

it sure wouldn’t have taken a great deal of engineering forethought to stick in a 90° Zerk or machine the yoke to allow a standard grease gun.

BTW, thanks to you guys that have responded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
I've never had my front diff out but I understand there are only 3 bolts that hold it in place. Looks like getting around the rad. could be difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
The front diff is easy. There is a bracket that holds the diff up. Two bolts on each side towards the motor. Just removing those two will allow the rear of the diff to lower. You might be able to get the drive shaft off that way. Still pretty tight so I found it was just as easy to pull the long bolt holding the front up also. Plenty of room that way. The bolts are located close the axles. Not hard to find. It won't fall as the axles will be holding it there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I used a "recessed fitting adaptor" from LocknLube. Still couldn't get it straight on so I used a die grinder to create a little more access room. I didn't have to grind much.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok, I decided with the limited info on driveshaft removal grinding a relief on the yoke was the way I was going to go. There simply isn’t room for my cordless Makita to do the front, and I was able to get that one to take grease as is. The rear, I was able to use a die grinding bit and relieve enough so the I was able to come in from the front/top and get it done. Messy job! And ya gotta be careful not to nick the zerk! About an hour with the grinding, and a few choice words (always helps😒) and it’s done. The pics are rear yoke before/after. A little more grinding, and I could probably get a standard grease gun tip on that zerk.
3B32EEEB-5D24-42A7-8145-4D4FB78FCF3D.jpeg
34459926-FF43-478F-AE21-58BF12976A4C.jpeg
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top