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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before it starts getting hot I was going to replace my radiator fluid with Distilled water and some Water Wetter to let my engine run cooler.

I heard that you have to flush the system, so is there a specific method of how to do this?

Thanks

(pics in reply appreciated)
 

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So, when you go that route, there's no need for anti-freeze? Just distillied water & water wetter? I think I may join you on that one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
unless you live somewhere in a climate where its cold enough to freeze water, you dont need the radiator fluid... since i am in AZ, I dont have to worry about that and can run water wetter and get my engine temps to run about 15 degrees cooler. :)
 

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Im going to be doing a little flushing of my radiator. Just got a PWR with fan and oil cooler. I'll be putting radiator fluid in mine, its gets to around 12 degree in the winter. What is the water wetter stuff?
 

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I dont know all of the details of the flush .... but I have heard several times that you have to bleed the radiator .... if a little air gets in the system I have heard it will over heat ......

Michael ..... I think that is a good idea....... I may jump on board with you too .....

I have also heard that it is important to blow the radiator out frequently with air not water ..... the fins on the Rhino radiator get clogged with dirt and no air can pass through ..... I have heard that if you use water to clean it out the fine particles of dirt and sand will just harden into a mud and it will be very hard to get it clean ..... I have heard to blow it out through the rear side outward ......

I have heard of 2 different methods .....

Some people say you will need a tube fitting with a 45 degree bend on the end to reach in there and blow it out ....

Other people say you have to remove the radiator to get it clean ......

I have no personal experience in any of this .... I am just passing on what I have read and heard .... Does any of it make sense? I hope it helps ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What is the water wetter stuff?
Water Wetter or Engine Ice is just a liquid additive that you mix with distilled water and replace your radiator fluid. The combination lets the Rhino's engine run up to 15 degrees cooler. For someone like me that lives in Phx, its a MUST, i didnt do it last season only because I knew there was a process/method to flushing out the radiator and like Mike mentioned to not leave any air in the system.
 

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I borrowed this from the trx450 forum that I am on as well. I run have ran water wetter in my quad since I owned it. Anyhow below is a little insight on some different products that lower the fluid temp.

Coolant Replacement Tips

Be Ready For Summer


Thanks to Dave Kimmey, Owner/President Engine Ice High Performance Coolant



Dave Says,

Since it's starting to warm up and you folks will be getting your bikes out of moth balls, I thought I'd take a minute to give you some information and education about antifreeze/coolant products as well as some insight as to what coolants actually are and what their true purpose is.

Now, being from Engine Ice, I am a bit biased and I admit it. However, most all of the products on the market are excellent products, but each has various uses and applications for them. We produce Engine Ice for specific high intensity and high heat applications. It really is not designed as an “everyday” coolant; it is for racing or high temperature applications. However, it can be used as an everyday coolant with no problem

There are two basic types of coolant/antifreeze, Ethylene Glycol (EG) and Propylene Glycol (PG) and then there are surfactant products such as Water Wetter from Red Line for example. All of the products mentioned are good products, just offering different things.

Ethylene Glycol (EG) – This is basically your “Prestone” type of products. Maxima’s Coolinol, Pro Honda Coolant and Spectro Coolant are examples of this type of product. It is basically the same as the coolant/antifreeze product you can buy at the auto parts store, but “silicate-free.” This is important, don’t get the stuff from the auto parts store unless it’s silicate free. Most are pre-diluted for easy use; they are diluted with a more pure distilled water or deionized water (deionized water is explained below). This is better water than what you can buy at the grocery store.

You really shouldn’t call an EG-based product a “coolant,” an “anti-boil” product would be more accurate. EG is made very cheaply and its primary purpose is to eliminate boil-over and to keep your system from freezing up. That’s basically it. It is not designed to actually reduce temperatures. If you are driving a car or a cruiser-type bike that does not have a temperature issue, these are fine products.

Water Wetter - It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a “surfactant.” What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to “rub” closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. It will reduce temperatures, but by only a small amount. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will “spit out” the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you’ll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

Water alone is not recommended. You do need to add some type of water additive to it. Water alone is corrosive and it does not keep your seals, gaskets, water pump and water pump impeller shaft lubricated enough. Make sure something is added to water, do not run it all by itself.

I would not recommend Dex-Cool (the orange stuff). All reports and tests that I have heard of have not been good. It can "gel." It also has a tendency to clog up a motorcycle system. The radiator core and the system itself of a motorcycle is smaller when compared to an auto. I would avoid Dex-Cool and choose any other product before I'd recommend anyone using it.

Propylene Glycol (PG) – This is what Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant and Evans Coolant is made of. Evans is 100% PG and has an extremely high boil point of well over 350oF. They recommend you make some mechanical changes to your system, such as a zero psi cap or a different radiator in order to use it. Their goal is to eliminate boil-over, not to reduce temperatures. At their recommended 100% PG use, you’d have a boil point in excess of 350oF. At 100% PG, it would not be as effective at dissipating heat from your engine as well as it has a higher viscosity. Water is the ultimate coolant. All coolant products are measured against water for its heat dissipation capabilities. The lack of water in the use of Evans greatly reduces its ability to cool your engine. If you’re running heavy equipment or an 18-wheel truck, Evans is probably a good product.

Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don’t they? If water were water, why would they be different? It’s because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.

Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

Engine Ice has won over 275 National Championship Titles over the last two and a half years including the 2001 AMA 125cc West Supercross Championship with Ernesto Fonseca on the Yamaha of Troy YZ250F and in 2002 Chad Reed in the 125cc West Supercross Championship. You can bet that Yamaha Motor Corporation did extensive testing on Engine Ice prior to putting in into their premier bike in its debut year. It is also used an endorsed by the American Suzuki Amateur Motocross Program. Engine Ice sponsored racer, Darren Luck, won nine (9) CCS class championships in 2002 as well as earned the CCS Florida Expert #1 plate by the largest margin ever. Racers using Engine Ice won seven CCS Race of Champions National Championships at Daytona in 2001 and won an additional eight (8) in 2002.

As for flushing the system, we recommend a very simple and cheap radiator flush.
Go to your local grocery store and buy "White Distilled Vinegar" and mix that 50/50 with some distilled water.
Fill the system with the 50/50 mix, run the bike until warm, let cool, drain and then run clear water through to wash out the vinegar. It's the same idea as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to remove any scale or impurities, but not so harsh that it will harm your delicate seals and gaskets.

WE DO NOT RECOMMEND AUTOMOTIVE RADIATOR FLUSHES...they're too harsh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is good info... thanks for posting that!

So, now what do I do with this new bottle of Water Wetter, ... it sounds like Engine Ice is the way to go!
 

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hey there is a bleeder screw on what looks like a thermostat housing . You need to uncrew that and fill your system untill you get pure liquid out of it then go run it let it cool off and do that one more time and that should be sufficiant. :Flush:
 

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hey there is a bleeder screw on what looks like a thermostat housing . You need to uncrew that and fill your system untill you get pure liquid out of it then go run it let it cool off and do that one more time and that should be sufficiant. :Flush:
Downtown J Brown with a little insight, I did what he said because thats what he said and it worked just fine:33:
 

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from what i have been told, the problem with the EVANS cooling stuff is you cant add water to it.. If you run low you have to add the special formula stuff.. not realistic if you are deep in the dessert, and your fluid system is running low (unless you cary an xtra gallon of it). WHo know's maybe you dont even have water to add, but you get the point......

I think distilled water with water wetter, purple ice, etc etc will do significantly better... no need for antifreeze unless you live in freezing temperatures.
 

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Not Sure If Its The Correct Way To Do It But I Just Put A Water Hose In The Rad And Take The Return Line Off The Rad And Start The Engine Tell And Let It Run Tell Its Clean.
 

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I Still dont know how to flush the radiator, i just purchased some of the evans coolant and prep fluid. How would i go about getting all the water and anti freeze out? Just take the return line loose and let it run until nothing comes out then add the prep fluid and do the same thing, unless their is a better way?
 

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I Still dont know how to flush the radiator, i just purchased some of the evans coolant and prep fluid. How would i go about getting all the water and anti freeze out? Just take the return line loose and let it run until nothing comes out then add the prep fluid and do the same thing, unless their is a better way?
to completely empty the radiator, you need to remove it from the rhino, due to the inlet and outlet locations.

the engine and lines are easy to flush out.
 

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Ok, so if its easy to flush out of the engine, iam guessing you just let it run until nothing comes out or what? Why did they make the radiator like that where radiator fluid just sets in the bottom of the radiator like that?
 

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Ok, so if its easy to flush out of the engine, iam guessing you just let it run until nothing comes out or what? Why did they make the radiator like that where radiator fluid just sets in the bottom of the radiator like that?
I don't know why either, we all can't figure that one out. :aargh4:

no need to run engine, just open drain screw on water pump or pull lower hose. also open bleeder screw on top thermostat housing.


I use engine iCE and that way you could add water if need be in an emergency.
 

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Get all the anti-freeze out of the system. Either by completely draining the motor/lines and radiator, or by draining what you can (without removing any parts), and refilling with straight water, run it for a few minutes, then drain again and repeat until what you drain out has no traces of anti-freeze.

Then:
"As for flushing the system, we recommend a very simple and cheap radiator flush.
Go to your local grocery store and buy "White Distilled Vinegar" and mix that 50/50 with some distilled water.
Fill the system with the 50/50 mix, run the bike until warm, let cool, drain and then run clear water through to wash out the vinegar. It's the same idea as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to remove any scale or impurities, but not so harsh that it will harm your delicate seals and gaskets."

Thats what I did before switching over from Water+water wetter to Engine Ice.

Dont run your motor for more than a few seconds without coolant of some sort in the motor.
 

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Ok I understand it now i didnt know if when i pulled the hose if it all would drain out, but i will fire it up for a couple seconds just to make sure. Yeah not being able to put water back in it incase something did happen is the down fall but i will just keep some evans with me. I gotta do something i cant stand waiting for it to cool down when iam trying to ride. When I take the radiator off iam going to clean it real good so it should run cooler for awhile plus the evans.Thanks guys!
 
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