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2006 Yamaha Rhino 660, Explorer, new Progressive 429 Shocks
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finished my wheel bearing job today on all 4 wheels. The ones on the driver's side were really in bad shape, the passenger side bearings must have been replaced at some point in the not too distant past because they were in good shape and obviously newer. The rear driver's side didn't have the collar or what I call spacer between the bearings installed and I was delayed a week while I waited on it to show up. Both of the driver's side knuckles had water, grit, and rust inside, I cleaned them up, used Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver, and to remove the rust and emory cloth to get it smooth inside. To keep from damaging my new ball joints I pulled the front control arms off to replace the bearings. While I had them off I pulled the bolts on the front differential and shifted it forward so I could remove the driveshaft.

Installed a 2 inch lift.

I also rebuilt the front drive shaft, new seals, tension spring, and two new drive yokes.

Another task was draining and refilling both differentials, they were low anyway from the axle replacemant I did earlier.

The job was made much much easier with Thor, my Ingersoll Rand 123MAX Air Hammer. If you don't have one get one.

I didn't get the front wheels back on because I need to bleed the brakes and it started raining so obviously that put a stop to brake bleeding.
 

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2006 Yamaha Rhino 660, Explorer, new Progressive 429 Shocks
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was having a difficult time bleeding the brakes until I found on an Amazon review of the single rear brake caliper that the line in and bleeder valve are often reversed. I swapped them around so that the bleeder valve was in the upper position and BAMMM problem solved.
 

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2006 Yamaha Rhino 660, Explorer, new Progressive 429 Shocks
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The old girl wouldn't shift from Reverse to Neutral to Drive and back without a great deal of force, I read on the forums here to adjust the idle speed and BAMMM problem solved.
 

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So what ends up doing the wheel bearings in is moisture and mud. If you take your wheels off every so often, you can pull the plastic bearing seal off, flush out the crap in the bearing with brake cleaner and then fill the bearing back up with grease using a needle adapter on your grease gun and replace the bearing seal, they can last a long time.
 

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Registered
2006 Yamaha Rhino 660, Explorer, new Progressive 429 Shocks
Joined
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So what ends up doing the wheel bearings in is moisture and mud. If you take your wheels off every so often, you can pull the plastic bearing seal off, flush out the crap in the bearing with brake cleaner and then fill the bearing back up with grease using a needle adapter on your grease gun and replace the bearing seal, they can last a long time.
Thanks for the info, I wouldn't have thought about doing that with sealed bearings. But, that's pretty much what I do on boat trailers that have unsealed bearings, just pumping grease in there doesn't get the water and grit out.
 

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2006 Yamaha Rhino 660, Explorer, new Progressive 429 Shocks
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
My goal with the old girl is to be able to take my 88 year old dad hunting and of course a little trail riding on the side. I need her to be reliable to take him out to the hunting grounds and I can't have her breaking down and leaving me to piggy back him out, LOL.
 
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