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Does anyone have pictures of the factory fuel pump and lines relocated lower beside the fuel tank, if so could you post them thanks . :147:
 

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This is all I could find. Search for Rutting Rhino, Craig was the expert on fuel problems. uploadfromtaptalk1468034359430.jpg
 
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Does that fix the hard starting / vapor lock issues? Seems like an easy fix instead of going the electric pump route.
 

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boiling fuel it helps alot but still takes forever to cold start. electric pump would be better for cold start
 

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Does that fix the hard starting / vapor lock issues? Seems like an easy fix instead of going the electric pump route.
It helped a lot , but didn't fully "fix" it...a primer bulb fixes the hard start problem.
X2 Three pumps of the bulb and mine starts right up even on the coldest days.
 

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Does that fix the hard starting / vapor lock issues? Seems like an easy fix instead of going the electric pump route.
It helped a lot , but didn't fully "fix" it...a primer bulb fixes the hard start problem.
Would one of you guys with the primer bulb post a picture of where you located the bulb.

And, where do you buy one of these bulbs?

Thanks.
 

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This is where I put mine, relocated the fuel filter also for easy access. If you have stock seats you can place it behind the seat so you can just reach in behind the seat and prime it. Marine bulb from Walmart $20.
 

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Does that fix the hard starting / vapor lock issues? Seems like an easy fix instead of going the electric pump route.
I was involved with Rutting Rhino back when he was developing this relocate and re-plumb scheme. You will see a check valve just before the tee feeding the carb. This helps prevent the fuel from draining back into the tank to some degree. It is pretty effective over a few days, or maybe weeks, but eventually air bubbles form and it slowly drains back into the tank. You also see a line from the intake manifold to the pump's vacuum port. In this particular layout you see a short stub with a plug in the end. Doing it this way requires a very low pressure regulator down at the outlet of the pump to ensure that the carb does not overflow when pressurized directly like this. My preferred alternative is to extend that stub as a return line to the tank. That return line should loop up to well above the carb before going back to the tank. This will essentially keep the fuel pressure at about what you would see with a gravity fed tank at about that height, which is what the carb was designed for. You also see the fuel filter sort of hiding behind the frame member alongside of the tank.

To answer your question regarding starting and vapor lock: The pump and fuel lines are now away from the very hot area just above the exhaust manifold so the pump will be much cooler, which will help the vapor lock problem. Hard starting is caused primarily by the fuel having drained out of the fuel line between pump and tank. It is difficult for any pump to draw a vacuum to lift fuel up into the pump. The pump pumps liquid much better than it pumps air. Having the pump at or below the fuel level in the tank helps to keep that suction leg of the plumbing full of fuel as it sits for very long periods of time. Also, if it does indeed evaporate out, the pump does not have to lift the fuel very high at all to establish prime.

I'll also inject a word of caution regarding the transparent fuel lines that you see here. It turns out that many of the transparent materials that were usable with gasoline back when are attacked by the Ethanol that is added to the gasoline peddled in this country these days. Be very careful in getting transparent line that is certified for use with Ethanol as well as gasoline.
 

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You might try Tygon fuel lines
I'm going to be re-plumbing with Tygon LP-1100. It has an inner layer that is good for up to E-100 fuel. Some of the other Tygon formulations cannot tolerate Ethanol. Your link is to that formulation and others that are good for up to at least E-10.
 
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