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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sorry buy I tried the search and did not find any info so here it goes. I just installed my CDI into my 06 660 and now it seems to be running lean going off of smell of exhaust. The kit says no adjustments needed but I am thinking maybe I do. I also just bought the Rhino and changed the oil and filter as well as the air filter which was pretty dirty. Yamaha said they run lean to begin with so is the lean coming from the cdi or the fact that my Rhino can breath again ? Yamaha said to bring in my carb and they will rejet for free which is cool considering I did not buy my Rhino from them I only purchased the CDI from them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Pm ruttingrhino on hear he is a vendor and has ALOT of knowlage with these carbs. He will get you what you need and explain to you how to do it.
 

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A change in CDI should not require a change in jetting. California models do run lean from the factory and have a plug covering the a/f screw keeping you from making adjustments. Did you remove your airbox lid or change the filter setup at all?

Nate
Alba Racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am running a stock exhaust and just put a UNI filter on it. The only other thing that has been changed is the cdi. It stated in the instructions that came with the cdi that no adjustments should be necessary but that it sometimes requires rejetting or adjusting the idle if it runs lean. So I can only assume it needs to be rejetted more often than not with the cdi or else the instructions would not have meationed it. Kinda like saying the cdi is all you need simple mod no other adjustments but yet you might need to rejet carbs.. I spoke with Yamaha and they said it would probably need to be rejetted and that it was a good idea to do it anyway because the Rhino runs lean stock and that by rejetting it it would run alot better. I have the carb off and will take it to get jetted tomorrow. I guess it cant hurt. I just wonder that being in Cali. if it always ran this lean and I only noticed it after I changed the old plugged dirty air filter. We have only had it since Saturday but I chaned the cdi at the same time as air filter so I just do not know. Other than that the cdi made a huge difference in performance. In case someone askes I want to keep the exhaust stock for hunting reasons. Only other mod I want to do for performance is the Sheave or Clutch.
 

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If you went to a uni thats why you need to rejet.... Not the cdi. As for the sheave talk to james "JBS" hes a site vendor on hear he has the sheave you will want to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you went to a uni thats why you need to rejet.... Not the cdi. As for the sheave talk to james "JBS" hes a site vendor on hear he has the sheave you will want to get.

Sorry I have common sense with most things but when it comes to things like this I have waited years to get my new toy and I am afraid of screwing things up. So please explain why the UNI filter would cause a rejet. This is beyond my common sense level with off road vehicles so I hope that I do not irritate anyone with goofy questions. But all i did was take off the old foam filter and slip a red and yellow UNI filter not a cold intake and this would cause the Rhino to run lean. Please help me understand why. I can assume it is because the UNI breathes better but that is a guess. As far as the sheave goes someone suggested I change the clutch to a greaseless instead of swapping the sheave and getting the same performance increase but not sure of that one. Please advise.
 

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One thing I thought I might mention is the fuel filter and pump. Is there plenty of fuel getting to the carb to begin with? Just before I changed my fuel filter and fuel pump to the high flow system I have now, mine ran really lean to, and sucked for power. Just a thought.
 

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Sorry buy I tried the search and did not find any info so here it goes. I just installed my CDI into my 06 660 and now it seems to be running lean going off of smell of exhaust. The kit says no adjustments needed but I am thinking maybe I do. I also just bought the Rhino and changed the oil and filter as well as the air filter which was pretty dirty. Yamaha said they run lean to begin with so is the lean coming from the cdi or the fact that my Rhino can breath again ? Yamaha said to bring in my carb and they will rejet for free which is cool considering I did not buy my Rhino from them I only purchased the CDI from them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Your info regarding your CDI is correct...the ignition curve of the aftermarket is different than stock but not in the extreme...the affect on a/f is miniscule and can be discounted on a stock motor using pump gas...

The Stock filter is a UNI 2 stage foam filter...the outer layer of the stock filter element is denser than the removable red sleeve on your replacement...the difference in total air flow between your stock filter and the one you have now is very small to begin with...additionally...on a stock 06 the most limiting (and therefore dominate) factor in air flow is the STUPID restrictive rubber snorkel that connects your air box lid to the air scoop in your engine cover...

You cannot tell that the motor is lean due to smell of exhaust imo...

You can get some important clues from inspecting your spark plug...and you can install a wide band a/f gauge as well...which provides a lot more detailed information regarding your a/f...

All Rhinos sold in the US are set from factory to meet CA emissions so they don't have to make separate parts and worry about which ones go where...the idle a/f is adjusted lean...and the pilot jet is too small which makes low throttle settings lean...the main jet from the factory is in the ball bark for ideal operation at low elevations and moderate temperatures with a bone stock intake/exhaust...

Hopefully your local dealership knows what pilot/main jet combination and idle a/f screw setting works well for rhinos with stock intakes/exhausts in your area...

The hardest part of re-jetting is getting the factory screws out...

IMO...you should let them do it...and if it's not right...you will be ahead of the game by having them open it up for you...

If they are not putting a 45 pilot jet in it they should...your main jet should be close...they should leave your needle position bone-stock...

If it were me...I would request a 45 pilot jet...a 150 main jet...and throw that rubber snorkel on your air box away and seal the hole in your air scoop to block noise and dust...

Less noise...more power...easier starts...smoother idle...run better cold...all at the same time...

A clogged air filter CAN actually make your a/f leaner due to lack of air flow...the stock carb throttle is actually air not fuel...air flow lifts the slide...when the needle rises fuel can flow thru main jet...conditions vary and it can result in going rich or lean...temperature and elevation and a/f to begin with all play a role in which way it goes when filter clogs and/or intake is restricted due to blockage or a snorkel...

If you truly NEED an airbox with a snorkel for deep water (more than 12" deep...mud/puddles don't count) then I highly recommend you make one out of much bigger I.D. pipe and get a billet adapter for allowing a clamp-on air filter...then clamp on a K&N filter and tune the carb for max power...

We sell mikuni jets individually...in groups (kits) for tuning...and the SS SH replacement screws for the carb...in addition to our own high performance custom air-intakes and fuel delivery kits if you need anything the dealer can't or won't provide you...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Sorry buy I tried the search and did not find any info so here it goes. I just installed my CDI into my 06 660 and now it seems to be running lean going off of smell of exhaust. The kit says no adjustments needed but I am thinking maybe I do. I also just bought the Rhino and changed the oil and filter as well as the air filter which was pretty dirty. Yamaha said they run lean to begin with so is the lean coming from the cdi or the fact that my Rhino can breath again ? Yamaha said to bring in my carb and they will rejet for free which is cool considering I did not buy my Rhino from them I only purchased the CDI from them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Your info regarding your CDI is correct...the ignition curve of the aftermarket is different than stock but not in the extreme...the affect on a/f is miniscule and can be discounted on a stock motor using pump gas...

The Stock filter is a UNI 2 stage foam filter...the outer layer of the stock filter element is denser than the removable red sleeve on your replacement...the difference in total air flow between your stock filter and the one you have now is very small to begin with...additionally...on a stock 06 the most limiting (and therefore dominate) factor in air flow is the STUPID restrictive rubber snorkel that connects your air box lid to the air scoop in your engine cover...

You cannot tell that the motor is lean due to smell of exhaust imo...

You can get some important clues from inspecting your spark plug...and you can install a wide band a/f gauge as well...which provides a lot more detailed information regarding your a/f...

All Rhinos sold in the US are set from factory to meet CA emissions so they don't have to make separate parts and worry about which ones go where...the idle a/f is adjusted lean...and the pilot jet is too small which makes low throttle settings lean...the main jet from the factory is in the ball bark for ideal operation at low elevations and moderate temperatures with a bone stock intake/exhaust...

Hopefully your local dealership knows what pilot/main jet combination and idle a/f screw setting works well for rhinos with stock intakes/exhausts in your area...

The hardest part of re-jetting is getting the factory screws out...

IMO...you should let them do it...and if it's not right...you will be ahead of the game by having them open it up for you...

If they are not putting a 45 pilot jet in it they should...your main jet should be close...they should leave your needle position bone-stock...

If it were me...I would request a 45 pilot jet...a 150 main jet...and throw that rubber snorkel on your air box away and seal the hole in your air scoop to block noise and dust...

Less noise...more power...easier starts...smoother idle...run better cold...all at the same time...

A clogged air filter CAN actually make your a/f leaner due to lack of air flow...the stock carb throttle is actually air not fuel...air flow lifts the slide...when the needle rises fuel can flow thru main jet...conditions vary and it can result in going rich or lean...temperature and elevation and a/f to begin with all play a role in which way it goes when filter clogs and/or intake is restricted due to blockage or a snorkel...

If you truly NEED an airbox with a snorkel for deep water (more than 12" deep...mud/puddles don't count) then I highly recommend you make one out of much bigger I.D. pipe and get a billet adapter for allowing a clamp-on air filter...then clamp on a K&N filter and tune the carb for max power...

We sell mikuni jets individually...in groups (kits) for tuning...and the SS SH replacement screws for the carb...in addition to our own high performance custom air-intakes and fuel delivery kits if you need anything the dealer can't or won't provide you...

Went to Yamaha this morning and already have the carb back on. Wow what a difference he drilled out the plug for the mixture screw and put the screw in and adjusted it 2 3/4 turn out. As far as jets go he used a dynojet and being a little off on size he used a 160 which he said equals a 150 jet in reality the other jet he switched from stock to a 45. I put it on and what a difference before I would have to leave the choke on for 7-10 minutes and it is in the 60's here now it starts and warms real fast with no choke at all. It seems to be a little quieter and smoother too idle is better easier starts it really made a huge difference. All this cost me 5.50 because I had to go to Honda to get a jet he was out or else it would have been free. Not too bad of a deal. What next dry clutch or sheave or both ? After that a front rack, ice chest holder, windshield, and top than I think I am finished.
 

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Sorry buy I tried the search and did not find any info so here it goes. I just installed my CDI into my 06 660 and now it seems to be running lean going off of smell of exhaust. The kit says no adjustments needed but I am thinking maybe I do. I also just bought the Rhino and changed the oil and filter as well as the air filter which was pretty dirty. Yamaha said they run lean to begin with so is the lean coming from the cdi or the fact that my Rhino can breath again ? Yamaha said to bring in my carb and they will rejet for free which is cool considering I did not buy my Rhino from them I only purchased the CDI from them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Your info regarding your CDI is correct...the ignition curve of the aftermarket is different than stock but not in the extreme...the affect on a/f is miniscule and can be discounted on a stock motor using pump gas...

The Stock filter is a UNI 2 stage foam filter...the outer layer of the stock filter element is denser than the removable red sleeve on your replacement...the difference in total air flow between your stock filter and the one you have now is very small to begin with...additionally...on a stock 06 the most limiting (and therefore dominate) factor in air flow is the STUPID restrictive rubber snorkel that connects your air box lid to the air scoop in your engine cover...

You cannot tell that the motor is lean due to smell of exhaust imo...

You can get some important clues from inspecting your spark plug...and you can install a wide band a/f gauge as well...which provides a lot more detailed information regarding your a/f...

All Rhinos sold in the US are set from factory to meet CA emissions so they don't have to make separate parts and worry about which ones go where...the idle a/f is adjusted lean...and the pilot jet is too small which makes low throttle settings lean...the main jet from the factory is in the ball bark for ideal operation at low elevations and moderate temperatures with a bone stock intake/exhaust...

Hopefully your local dealership knows what pilot/main jet combination and idle a/f screw setting works well for rhinos with stock intakes/exhausts in your area...

The hardest part of re-jetting is getting the factory screws out...

IMO...you should let them do it...and if it's not right...you will be ahead of the game by having them open it up for you...

If they are not putting a 45 pilot jet in it they should...your main jet should be close...they should leave your needle position bone-stock...

If it were me...I would request a 45 pilot jet...a 150 main jet...and throw that rubber snorkel on your air box away and seal the hole in your air scoop to block noise and dust...

Less noise...more power...easier starts...smoother idle...run better cold...all at the same time...

A clogged air filter CAN actually make your a/f leaner due to lack of air flow...the stock carb throttle is actually air not fuel...air flow lifts the slide...when the needle rises fuel can flow thru main jet...conditions vary and it can result in going rich or lean...temperature and elevation and a/f to begin with all play a role in which way it goes when filter clogs and/or intake is restricted due to blockage or a snorkel...

If you truly NEED an airbox with a snorkel for deep water (more than 12" deep...mud/puddles don't count) then I highly recommend you make one out of much bigger I.D. pipe and get a billet adapter for allowing a clamp-on air filter...then clamp on a K&N filter and tune the carb for max power...

We sell mikuni jets individually...in groups (kits) for tuning...and the SS SH replacement screws for the carb...in addition to our own high performance custom air-intakes and fuel delivery kits if you need anything the dealer can't or won't provide you...

Went to Yamaha this morning and already have the carb back on. Wow what a difference he drilled out the plug for the mixture screw and put the screw in and adjusted it 2 3/4 turn out. As far as jets go he used a dynojet and being a little off on size he used a 160 which he said equals a 150 jet in reality the other jet he switched from stock to a 45. I put it on and what a difference before I would have to leave the choke on for 7-10 minutes and it is in the 60's here now it starts and warms real fast with no choke at all. It seems to be a little quieter and smoother too idle is better easier starts it really made a huge difference. All this cost me 5.50 because I had to go to Honda to get a jet he was out or else it would have been free. Not too bad of a deal. What next dry clutch or sheave or both ? After that a front rack, ice chest holder, windshield, and top than I think I am finished.
And your finished???? Hahahahahahahahaha!! Keep telling yourself that...............
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:shhh:
Your info regarding your CDI is correct...the ignition curve of the aftermarket is different than stock but not in the extreme...the affect on a/f is miniscule and can be discounted on a stock motor using pump gas...

The Stock filter is a UNI 2 stage foam filter...the outer layer of the stock filter element is denser than the removable red sleeve on your replacement...the difference in total air flow between your stock filter and the one you have now is very small to begin with...additionally...on a stock 06 the most limiting (and therefore dominate) factor in air flow is the STUPID restrictive rubber snorkel that connects your air box lid to the air scoop in your engine cover...

You cannot tell that the motor is lean due to smell of exhaust imo...

You can get some important clues from inspecting your spark plug...and you can install a wide band a/f gauge as well...which provides a lot more detailed information regarding your a/f...

All Rhinos sold in the US are set from factory to meet CA emissions so they don't have to make separate parts and worry about which ones go where...the idle a/f is adjusted lean...and the pilot jet is too small which makes low throttle settings lean...the main jet from the factory is in the ball bark for ideal operation at low elevations and moderate temperatures with a bone stock intake/exhaust...

Hopefully your local dealership knows what pilot/main jet combination and idle a/f screw setting works well for rhinos with stock intakes/exhausts in your area...

The hardest part of re-jetting is getting the factory screws out...

IMO...you should let them do it...and if it's not right...you will be ahead of the game by having them open it up for you...

If they are not putting a 45 pilot jet in it they should...your main jet should be close...they should leave your needle position bone-stock...

If it were me...I would request a 45 pilot jet...a 150 main jet...and throw that rubber snorkel on your air box away and seal the hole in your air scoop to block noise and dust...

Less noise...more power...easier starts...smoother idle...run better cold...all at the same time...

A clogged air filter CAN actually make your a/f leaner due to lack of air flow...the stock carb throttle is actually air not fuel...air flow lifts the slide...when the needle rises fuel can flow thru main jet...conditions vary and it can result in going rich or lean...temperature and elevation and a/f to begin with all play a role in which way it goes when filter clogs and/or intake is restricted due to blockage or a snorkel...

If you truly NEED an airbox with a snorkel for deep water (more than 12" deep...mud/puddles don't count) then I highly recommend you make one out of much bigger I.D. pipe and get a billet adapter for allowing a clamp-on air filter...then clamp on a K&N filter and tune the carb for max power...

We sell mikuni jets individually...in groups (kits) for tuning...and the SS SH replacement screws for the carb...in addition to our own high performance custom air-intakes and fuel delivery kits if you need anything the dealer can't or won't provide you...

Went to Yamaha this morning and already have the carb back on. Wow what a difference he drilled out the plug for the mixture screw and put the screw in and adjusted it 2 3/4 turn out. As far as jets go he used a dynojet and being a little off on size he used a 160 which he said equals a 150 jet in reality the other jet he switched from stock to a 45. I put it on and what a difference before I would have to leave the choke on for 7-10 minutes and it is in the 60's here now it starts and warms real fast with no choke at all. It seems to be a little quieter and smoother too idle is better easier starts it really made a huge difference. All this cost me 5.50 because I had to go to Honda to get a jet he was out or else it would have been free. Not too bad of a deal. What next dry clutch or sheave or both ? After that a front rack, ice chest holder, windshield, and top than I think I am finished.
And your finished???? Hahahahahahahahaha!! Keep telling yourself that...............
Sorry I forgot to mention that is what I keep telling my wife. I know it will always be something else I want but for now that will have to do.
 

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Sorry buy I tried the search and did not find any info so here it goes. I just installed my CDI into my 06 660 and now it seems to be running lean going off of smell of exhaust. The kit says no adjustments needed but I am thinking maybe I do. I also just bought the Rhino and changed the oil and filter as well as the air filter which was pretty dirty. Yamaha said they run lean to begin with so is the lean coming from the cdi or the fact that my Rhino can breath again ? Yamaha said to bring in my carb and they will rejet for free which is cool considering I did not buy my Rhino from them I only purchased the CDI from them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Your info regarding your CDI is correct...the ignition curve of the aftermarket is different than stock but not in the extreme...the affect on a/f is miniscule and can be discounted on a stock motor using pump gas...

The Stock filter is a UNI 2 stage foam filter...the outer layer of the stock filter element is denser than the removable red sleeve on your replacement...the difference in total air flow between your stock filter and the one you have now is very small to begin with...additionally...on a stock 06 the most limiting (and therefore dominate) factor in air flow is the STUPID restrictive rubber snorkel that connects your air box lid to the air scoop in your engine cover...

You cannot tell that the motor is lean due to smell of exhaust imo...

You can get some important clues from inspecting your spark plug...and you can install a wide band a/f gauge as well...which provides a lot more detailed information regarding your a/f...

All Rhinos sold in the US are set from factory to meet CA emissions so they don't have to make separate parts and worry about which ones go where...the idle a/f is adjusted lean...and the pilot jet is too small which makes low throttle settings lean...the main jet from the factory is in the ball bark for ideal operation at low elevations and moderate temperatures with a bone stock intake/exhaust...

Hopefully your local dealership knows what pilot/main jet combination and idle a/f screw setting works well for rhinos with stock intakes/exhausts in your area...

The hardest part of re-jetting is getting the factory screws out...

IMO...you should let them do it...and if it's not right...you will be ahead of the game by having them open it up for you...

If they are not putting a 45 pilot jet in it they should...your main jet should be close...they should leave your needle position bone-stock...

If it were me...I would request a 45 pilot jet...a 150 main jet...and throw that rubber snorkel on your air box away and seal the hole in your air scoop to block noise and dust...

Less noise...more power...easier starts...smoother idle...run better cold...all at the same time...

A clogged air filter CAN actually make your a/f leaner due to lack of air flow...the stock carb throttle is actually air not fuel...air flow lifts the slide...when the needle rises fuel can flow thru main jet...conditions vary and it can result in going rich or lean...temperature and elevation and a/f to begin with all play a role in which way it goes when filter clogs and/or intake is restricted due to blockage or a snorkel...

If you truly NEED an airbox with a snorkel for deep water (more than 12" deep...mud/puddles don't count) then I highly recommend you make one out of much bigger I.D. pipe and get a billet adapter for allowing a clamp-on air filter...then clamp on a K&N filter and tune the carb for max power...

We sell mikuni jets individually...in groups (kits) for tuning...and the SS SH replacement screws for the carb...in addition to our own high performance custom air-intakes and fuel delivery kits if you need anything the dealer can't or won't provide you...

Went to Yamaha this morning and already have the carb back on. Wow what a difference he drilled out the plug for the mixture screw and put the screw in and adjusted it 2 3/4 turn out. As far as jets go he used a dynojet and being a little off on size he used a 160 which he said equals a 150 jet in reality the other jet he switched from stock to a 45. I put it on and what a difference before I would have to leave the choke on for 7-10 minutes and it is in the 60's here now it starts and warms real fast with no choke at all. It seems to be a little quieter and smoother too idle is better easier starts it really made a huge difference. All this cost me 5.50 because I had to go to Honda to get a jet he was out or else it would have been free. Not too bad of a deal. What next dry clutch or sheave or both ? After that a front rack, ice chest holder, windshield, and top than I think I am finished.
And your finished???? Hahahahahahahahaha!! Keep telling yourself that...............
 

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Thank you... I love being right...they did the right thing for you... :)

That dj 160 is closer to a MIK 152...too big for your bone stock 06 intake...ditch the snorkel like I said and it will be a lot better still...probably too rich right now on the main jet...not by a huge amount in cold weather...when it warms up it will be sluggish...

If you guys can get free jets and free labor that is cool...if not...I have what you need....!

BTW...we have a free passenger grab bar with a windshield kit purchase right now...

And a an intake with full range of mikuni jets that will add a lot more power and throttle response than you can get by ditching the power robbing snorkel...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So you are saying to just take off the little 4-6 inch snorkel on the top of airbox and seal it. Is that correct ?
 

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In regard to your question of what next.....get a jbs sheave with his greasless sliders and an orange secondary spring. Dont get a dry clutch! unless you're ONLY drag racing in the dunes, stick with the JBS sheave. Next motor upgrade would be a KMS head pipe for your stock muffler(to keep it quiet but add a "little" performance). then a cam(and valve springs if needed), Muzzy's pipe,then piston, head, etc... in that order.

After you remove the snorkle that goes from the airbox lid to the engine cover/vent, you can block the hole in the bottom of the engine cover vent where the top of the snorkle went into. Not the hole in the top of the airbox lid. Some people used the RAIS tube in place of the stock little snorkle. It is basically a RIGID vacuum brush attachment found at Home Depot. You can do a search for RAIS tube here on the forums and find all kinds of info on how to make your own for a few bucks.
 

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So you are saying to just take off the little 4-6 inch snorkel on the top of airbox and seal it. Is that correct ?
yes...seal the hole in the engine cover not the air box lid...lol...

yes I know you knew I was just kidding ....

and do that AFTER you order the wife a dash and grab bar combo... :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So you are saying to just take off the little 4-6 inch snorkel on the top of airbox and seal it. Is that correct ?
yes...seal the hole in the engine cover not the air box lid...lol...

yes I know you knew I was just kidding ....

and do that AFTER you order the wife a dash and grab bar combo... :biggrin:
You are very persistant Rutt. and I like it but I just bought a digital dash and a full winshield or folding windshield whatever it is called. Got the dash for 165 new in box and 75 for the winshield that was out of box but looks brand new. Tomorrow I am going to remove the snorkel and hope for the best. I will let you know on the grab handle but have no plans for one now. I am considering your fuel kit upgrade though. I will let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you... I love being right...they did the right thing for you... :)

That dj 160 is closer to a MIK 152...too big for your bone stock 06 intake...ditch the snorkel like I said and it will be a lot better still...probably too rich right now on the main jet...not by a huge amount in cold weather...when it warms up it will be sluggish...

If you guys can get free jets and free labor that is cool...if not...I have what you need....!

BTW...we have a free passenger grab bar with a windshield kit purchase right now...

And a an intake with full range of mikuni jets that will add a lot more power and throttle response than you can get by ditching the power robbing snorkel...
So if I ditch the snorkel than I should be fine on the DJ160 or will I need to do something else to it. It hits 110 where I live but averages 30's to 60's in winter and 70 to 110 but stable in the high 80's mid 90's in summer. I am all for exhaust if I can keep it somewhat quiet. Any suggestions or can I get by with a snorkel removal. If I go with a intake will I need to rejet /
 
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