the machine runs fine untill it gets warm, then i smell burning grease, then when its under load it starts to chatter real bad. it has nothing to do with the brakes its something in the driveline. it sounds like something is binding up but its only when its warn. if it was a clutch problem it would do it all the time you would think. any ideas would be sweet, let me know.
what i think started it all was me driving backwards for a little while and the rhino came to a grinding stop. i found out that the rearend bracket was loose so tightened it. it keep on making that noise so i thought it was the e brake disc binding on the pads but it was not that.
not a burning grease issuse but check to make sure the front diff is bolted in i know i had a bad chatter grinding sound when the 2 rear bolts on the front diff fell out of my 09 700
not neccesarily, when the guides are cool they will slip ( inner clutch plate) when warm they can become sticky, Unleashed has a "slider fix" if this ends up being the issue.
could it be the one way bearing, maybe, but the clutch is easier to check and no gaskets needed.
I have an 07 660 that makes a terrible driveline racket when I am descending a steep hill in low range 4WD using engine brake. I have discussed the problem on here before and several others have mentioned similar problems. I have heard it is a manufacturing defect, driveline balance issue Yamaha engineers are aware of but don't want to admit for fear of another expensive class action lawsuit. This really sucks with my machine making this loud, grinding racket going down hill on trails as my machine is a low hour, mileage pristine condition ,never abused Rhino.
This really sucks with my machine making this loud, grinding racket going down hill on trails as my machine is a low hour, mileage pristine condition ,never abused Rhino.
I yanked my one way bearing, I had a similar issue and the bearing ended up coming apart so I decided not to replace it.. no real issue with that except there is zero engine braking at low rpm as the clutch has no centrifugal force to keep it engaged.
pull fornt diff bolts pull forward, let drop, pull drive shaft out of front of motor. pull 4 bolts holding output coupling to motor and inpect the MDG, you can it in there.
the front coupling has shims and an o-ring, take note of shim placement.
ya i will pull the clutch off and take a look. i hope its something simple. the dealership thinks it might be the main drive shaft that is broken. they think there is just enough spline holding on to drive around but when torqued on it will slip.
holy **** man mine does this to i always thought it was the rear brake rotor or something good to know thanks
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