Welding the head can be tricky, casting might crack if it cools rapidly in any thin spots-if you try JB weld or putty, the switch needs to find a ground or light will stay on. Could relocate it ,close up the hole with filler or weld -I used a bronze pipe nipple, tap, install sender ,Soldered a ground wire to the nipple, cut the water exit rubber hose about 4 inches down, 2 hose clamps done deal -
On the head casting if a filler is used like JB weld it all depends-the filler could isolate the sender completely-cant really just keep tightening into the filler like aluminum….temp light on key on no ground.
On the head casting if a filler is used like JB weld it all depends-the filler could isolate the sender completely-cant really just keep tightening into the filler like aluminum….temp light on key on no ground.
For what its worth, I had a similar situation on an exhaust manifold stud that had broken the side of the head off. I salvaged what I could from the casting and used Hi Temp JB weld and let it harden for a few days. I did not have a lot of confidence that this would work especially with the heat and vibration. It Has been three years and is still holding like a champ. I am still very surprised !!!
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