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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have had it with the sound from the rear, no matter what I can't get the grinding sound to stop with the brakes. Some of it is self inflicted, after a few beers I forget about the parking brake, which i usually don't need. It's just a lever there and a habit to pull it. Anyways, has anyone successfully remove the caliper and just used the front brakes. I don't do alot of high speed riding but more mudding... I have heard some just take the caliper off and mount it to the frame and let it ride but is this the best option? Will the front brakes stop it at all??

On another note, I went the cheap way and bought a 3500lb Champion winch. I used my existing solenoid(off previous champion winch) and it is giving me the same fits. I get the winch under a load and slows down and then stops all together. Is this a solenoid issue or a battery issue? I bought this winch because the other one was doing the same thing but now I am thinking it wasn't the winch?

Any ideas would be great! Thanks!
 

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front brakes do more to stop the rhino than the rear brakes do. prolly 70/30
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If that's the case then why not remove the thing? Is there a way to remove the caliper all together and cap off the brake hose? I would feel better with it gone rather than it "tied" to the chassis.
 

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I had the same brake problem. I pulled the rear diff and unbolted the rotor and then bolted back like it was. I have had any promblem stopping and im on 28s.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm Sounds like a plan. But how about this... The brake line that goes to the rear from the master cylinder, just capping it at the master cylinder and removing the caliper, seems like it would be much simpler than removing the rear diff??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How did you remove it? Did you just tie it off or completely remove it? I am hoping to designing a simple fix for this to just disable the rear brakes, it's really eating at me haha :aargh4:
 

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I removed the rotor and I have tied the caliper with zip ties under the front passenger seat *by the gas tank*.
I eventually plan to remove it totally, but it is out of the way so I have not bothered with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I will do further research on this and see if I can come up with a better solution.

Now does anyone have any advice on my winch issue? I speculate a battery, will check the amps under the load and see what I get. Should I check anything else? I only run one battery to power the headlights and winch. That is all that I have and then to start. So it seems one battery should handle this right?
 

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Removing the rear diff is really easy. pull the rear axles, the skid plate under the diff and then its just two bolts. I wouldnt try to clamp off the line brake systems need to be closed. my brother in law tried clamping his off and it leaks down and gets water in the lines.
 

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I thought about the same thing.....removing the caliper all together and blocking off the brake lines. I went ahead and rebuilt the rear brake.....again. The next time I am going to probably take it off.

The winch.....do you have the Rhino running while using the winch? I have a Champion winch on my 4 wheeler and I have to keep the motor running (even give it a little gas) to keep the winch pulling. I have never had that problem with the Warn on the Rhino.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I thought about that, The brake line to the rear is isolated at the front of the master cylinder. I was told you can cap it off with a 10mm bolt and a lock washer and your set. Then you can just remove the rear caliper and your done. When I find the correct bolt I will post it with results. When in neutral though it's difficult to push the rhino, and it sounds like sand grinding in the front and the rear, I know the rear is because of the brakes but not quite sure of the front? I have new pads to put on the front so I will check it out.

As for the winch, I got the volt meter out tonight, Hooked the winch up to a post in concrete for testing. Under a heavy load(me holding the brakes) within say 5-10 seconds the battery draws to 10.5 volts and it stops clicking. The motor is running on the rhino, and no other accessories are turned on. If I hold the retrieve button for the winch it seems the battery will get some juice it will kick and retrieve another inch then drop below 10.5 and stop. Does this sound like a battery issue or the solenoid and the switch? Just winching it in neutral with nothing holding it back it pulls down to 11 or so volts and will keep working...
 

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Are you still running the stock stator?
 

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If your battery is a few years old, I would question the storage capacity of it....might be OK for basic starting of rhino, but when winching, just doesn't have the nads to keep on a pumpin.

sent from my twin-turboed Razr
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I am still running stock stator. But when the rhino is running it's at like 13.5 volts or so with nothing running but the Rhino. If the Rhino don't start quick, which mine always does the voltage drains pretty quick. I was able to partially flood it to keep it from starting to test the voltage and it was dropping quick before it finally turned over. Obviously it will drop partially quick try to start a motor, but it seems the capacity of the battery may be low....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Also, it looks to be the original battery which puts it at 5 years old.... What is the life of these?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
HAHA, yeah I would agree. I just had it tested and it is indeed bad. I got it replaced, I am now looking to add a battery box and a isolator with a general deep cycle. Then I will have no more worries. :banana:
 

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should replace every 5 years. after 6 years you should definetly get a new one especially if you have alot of stuff hooked up to it
 

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I just changed out my 5 1/2 year old stock battery-- it was testing low under a load. The last thing I want is a dead battery and digital dash replacement. I haven't used my 4500k winch yet so no comment there. Oh, and the usual life of a automotive battery is 5 years.
 
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