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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Scott just delivered my Rhino to my house... Yes, its 11:00pm and he just left. That guy kicks ass!!!










 

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cool, that's what i thought. it's a pull pin. everyone was saying it had a latching system on it. that's not a latching system. but it totally looks like it works. The only thing is i would be worried about losing those pins.

Deuce,
how's the hinge look? And what seats do you have?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cool, that's what i thought. it's a pull pin. everyone was saying it had a latching system on it. that's not a latching system. but it totally looks like it works. The only thing is i would be worried about losing those pins.

Deuce,
how's the hinge look? And what seats do you have?

thanks

Hinge works great so far... I havent taken it anywhere yet but they seem SUPER strong!!!

The seats are PRP seats and they arent mine... when Scott delivered the Rhino it had those seats on there. I need to return them to Scott and get my stockers back... :guilty:
 

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How come you said you hated them over on gd.com??????????
HAHAH you didn't even get it! the 07's look better with that filler piece. I didn't like them with that gap! they need a cross brace in them one tip over and you will bend the snot out of the frame work but what do I know
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A few more pics I took this morning...







 

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duece,

where is your ride height set at? How much distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis do you have? It looks like your car is sitting pretty low.

Just curious.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
duece,

where is your ride height set at? How much distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis do you have? It looks like your car is sitting pretty low.

Just curious.

Greg

I have no idea sir... Maybe next time you go out to Glamis I can meet you out there and you can help me out.

Here is a pic from the front...

 

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i would say its low.. look at this pic:




See how the a-arms are angled down, and yours are pretty much flat on the upper?

Are you having any bottoming issues?? Does it ride really soft??

You want the rear to have about 1/4" lower rear ride height than the front. I think you should be around about 12" of ground clearance from the bottom of the chassis to the ground.

Just a thought.. try it out, you might like it better. You can adjust the pre-load on the coils with the supplied tool they give you. Jack the car up to take the weight off the springs, and loosen the set screw with the allen wrench on the coil adjuster, and spin it down. You can spray some break cleaner on the nut to clean off all the threads before you adjust them. If there is dirt or sand on the threads, it will be a pain in the ass to turn.

Greg
 

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Greg,

I have a little bit more ride height in the front than Duece but nothing like your blue car. I haven't bottomed my front suspension. I like to keep it soft and use the travel.

The rear sag on mine looks more like your front picture. I will soft bottom the rear hitting G outs.
 

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HAHAH you didn't even get it! the 07's look better with that filler piece. I didn't like them with that gap! they need a cross brace in them one tip over and you will bend the snot out of the frame work but what do I know
How are your doors selling? I like your's but I wish you would make the V crossbrace more center in the door and do something about the big bracket at the back.
 

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What's up with you guy's, are Senior Citizens. Why do you want doors that open.I bet you end up climbing over them more than you will be opening them because that pin going to be a pain with time. Maybe I will cut the sides off my Extreme sand car and put doors on it too.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I guess to each his own my man, I wanted doors because my Fiance and Mother wanted to feel safer but didnt want to be jumping in and out. These are perfect for that.

On a side note they really help when you are trying to work on something inside. They fling open and you have full acccess. If it was welded in it would make it hard to get in there.
 

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What size tube are these made out of? (Guessing 1.5"?)

Also, is there any gap at the bottom of the door so water can drain out? I love the desert works doors but they're just to much $ for me.
 

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HAHAH you didn't even get it! the 07's look better with that filler piece. I didn't like them with that gap! they need a cross brace in them one tip over and you will bend the snot out of the frame work but what do I know
not trying to be confrontational, but what exactly do you know? a cross brace would help distribute load in what fasion? or are you looking for a cross brace to go from one door to the other door?
a bar conecting the top and bottom of the door, weather going from the bottom of the b pillar to top of the a pillar or visa versa would do nothing but give a false impression that these doors are intended to deflect side load. they are not. they are intended to keep you in.
this is not our first rodeo, and we have been building this door for three years. many roll overs have proved the durability and functionality of our unit.
we don't do the aluminum work in house for the doors $200 the ball lock pins are $36 each, the rear hinge material is fourteen dollars a foot, powdercoating is $150 for frames only and another $100 for the skins and the upholstery is $80. and, they don't build themselves. there may be a better way, and i say have at it, i almost dare you. they don't rattle, they dont bend or open in any scenario we have experienced.
again i am not trying to be confrontational, but, come on, every thread about the positive image we have worked very hard to build is diluted with what is in all actuality a very uneducated opinion. if you don't like the door cosmetically, too each blah blah blah, but to question it's integrity is out of line.
nice rat, if i had the time or room, it'd be my sixth or so unfinished project.
 
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