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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, Havent been on in a while so thought i would see whats going on. I have a Damaged left rear outer cv joint boot. I must have backed into somethimg (stick ,limb,etc.) that was angled just right and it went between the wheel and the guard for the boot and axle. Has anybody changed one of these out? Only had it a year and its under waranty but i dont think they will cover this type of damage?? Thanks for any help. Jeff B. Carter [email protected] By the way this is on a 2011 Rhino sport. 300 miles.
 

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Its not to bad to do. You will have to pull the axel out and the cv off the axle then just put the new one on. Save the factory clams and reuse them.
 

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its not to bad to do. You will have to pull the axel out and the cv off the axle then just put the new one on. Save the factory clams and reuse them.
x2 for the most part !
 

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Not a bad job. I have done a bunch of them on lots of different machines. You are going to need a tool like in the picture. That is one type depending on the bands you have...I just go to NAPA and buy the bands from them. Hardly ever use the provided bands. Also aftermarket boots......not OEM!!! Duraboot usd to make some but the last I bought were marketed under Moose Utility.
Until you get the hang of the and tool you might want to get extra bands.....getting the correct tightness is tricky.
Where in Arkansas are you?

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm about 20 miles west of Little Rock. Thanks for the advise. Is the CV joint hard to remove? Thanks again.
 

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I'm about 20 miles west of Little Rock. Thanks for the advise. Is the CV joint hard to remove? Thanks again.
You don't live to far from me. I live outside Hot Springs. They have clip on the end that helps hold the in the diff. Sometimes I have had to easily use a pry bar to coax them out. Sometimes I can just give them a good tug but I have also had the inside joint cage come loose from the housing.No big deal though.
I usually use the pry bar.
Carefully cut the bands and gain access to the snap ring holding the bearing to the shaft. Remove it and the bearing cage. Oh and there is a half snap ring inside the coupler housing as well....no need for snap ring pliers there just a little pick to get it out of the groove.
Then clean them real good. Pack them with grease and work it around when you do it.
When you put your bands on tuck them under the tabs and dress them up.

Here is picture from a kawasaki Mule 610 that I have rebuilt the front end twice....( I hunt the ladies 600 acres so I have to keep my mouth shut..lol) but you can see the joints apart.
 

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I have started using small hose clamps on cv joint fixes. Seem to work well eaiser than bands.
Why....they are so simple with the tool. The bands give a very secure seal in the grooves that were put there to keep them in place. The 15 to 20 bucks for the tool is well worth it if your gonna ride and fix your booboo's yourself.
The first time I did one about two decades ago I tried everything I thought of....vice grips....pliers and anything else I could but just couldn't get them right.Then off to NAPA and bought the same tool I have today and never had a issue with the bands again. Running two four wheel drive ATV's and a Rhino they seem to get torn even with boot guards. In Arkansas there are a lot of logging roads and sticks to tear them ...Oh and not to mention my kids riding...they seem to tear them more then me....the small investment has paid for itself time and time again.
I had a friend tell me He paid $200 bucks to replace one boot....geez!!! Yeah for less then $40 I can fix them up. Well some I charge for my labor.....cheaper then my employer charges for it but still.....I can't always be a charity dude.........lol
 

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I would go with oe replacement...the universal boots are cheaper-no question about that- but, they are way softer, making them more prone to tear even easier (the oe is more "plastic-like"). Also...the oe comes w/the grease, new clips, and bands that you do not need a special tool to install (plain-old needle nose work great). Give James a shout...super prices on oe stuff !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Thanks everyone for your help. will give this a try. Hey scottwv who is james? does he sell rhino parts? Thanks again. will let all know how it goes.
 

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Hey Thanks everyone for your help. will give this a try. Hey scottwv who is james? does he sell rhino parts? Thanks again. will let all know how it goes.
James...aka... WV Hot-Rod rhino...is the owner of JBS (a vendor on here). He stocks A LOT of oe, and aftermarket parts. I have yet to find lower prices...and...his customer service ROCKS !!! Give him a shout...(304)673-2602
 

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I would go with oe replacement...the universal boots are cheaper-no question about that- but, they are way softer, making them more prone to tear even easier (the oe is more "plastic-like"). Also...the oe comes w/the grease, new clips, and bands that you do not need a special tool to install (plain-old needle nose work great). Give James a shout...super prices on oe stuff !!
I don't know about the Yamaha boots but for Honda and Kawasaki the aftermarkets are thicker. Plus I don't think none of the manufacturers produce their own boots...they buy from outside vendors.
All the kits I have ever bought have the bands and grease in them.
For me I prefer to have a tool that gets them tight giving me a good tight seal in the grooves......I will also put a little Dow Corning 732 around the ends to seal them even better.
I have tried the plier method but prefer the tool because it's easier to control my pull with the joint in a vice.
Hey to each their own ....I just prefer the tool.
I wouldn't be surprised from reading Hot Rods stuff if He sells aftermarket boots as they do the same and are a much easier on the wallet.
 

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I would go with oe replacement...the universal boots are cheaper-no question about that- but, they are way softer, making them more prone to tear even easier (the oe is more "plastic-like"). Also...the oe comes w/the grease, new clips, and bands that you do not need a special tool to install (plain-old needle nose work great). Give James a shout...super prices on oe stuff !!
I don't know about the Yamaha boots but for Honda and Kawasaki the aftermarkets are thicker. Plus I don't think none of the manufacturers produce their own boots...they buy from outside vendors.
All the kits I have ever bought have the bands and grease in them.
For me I prefer to have a tool that gets them tight giving me a good tight seal in the grooves......I will also put a little Dow Corning 732 around the ends to seal them even better.
I have tried the plier method but prefer the tool because it's easier to control my pull with the joint in a vice.
Hey to each their own ....I just prefer the tool.
I wouldn't be surprised from reading Hot Rods stuff if He sells aftermarket boots as they do the same and are a much easier on the wallet.

Not knocking your banding tool at all...I have a different version one myself. They work really well...the oe bands tighten up without needing the tool. The yamaha boots are thicker than the aftermarket ones...and yes...they are more expensive. You and other people may get good service from the universal ones...I only got about 8 months before several pin-holes started slinging grease out. To me, cheaper isn't always "better" ; but, like you said-to each their own. James stocks oe boots...but...I'm sure if someone asked him to get them an aftermarket he would.
 

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I would go with oe replacement...the universal boots are cheaper-no question about that- but, they are way softer, making them more prone to tear even easier (the oe is more "plastic-like"). Also...the oe comes w/the grease, new clips, and bands that you do not need a special tool to install (plain-old needle nose work great). Give James a shout...super prices on oe stuff !!
I don't know about the Yamaha boots but for Honda and Kawasaki the aftermarkets are thicker. Plus I don't think none of the manufacturers produce their own boots...they buy from outside vendors.
All the kits I have ever bought have the bands and grease in them.
For me I prefer to have a tool that gets them tight giving me a good tight seal in the grooves......I will also put a little Dow Corning 732 around the ends to seal them even better.
I have tried the plier method but prefer the tool because it's easier to control my pull with the joint in a vice.
Hey to each their own ....I just prefer the tool.
I wouldn't be surprised from reading Hot Rods stuff if He sells aftermarket boots as they do the same and are a much easier on the wallet.

Not knocking your banding tool at all...I have a different version one myself. They work really well...the oe bands tighten up without needing the tool. The yamaha boots are thicker than the aftermarket ones...and yes...they are more expensive. You and other people may get good service from the universal ones...I only got about 8 months before several pin-holes started slinging grease out. To me, cheaper isn't always "better" ; but, like you said-to each their own. James stocks oe boots...but...I'm sure if someone asked him to get them an aftermarket he would.
Like I said the Honda's were not as thick as the Duraboot's but I haven't had to change a Yamaha yet.
I just started using the NAPA bandit's and love them....I just find them easier and get a real good seal. You do have to get the hang of when to bend the band though.
 
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